IMPORTANT
When you are changing gear you often have to turn the chuck by hand slightly to get the gear to engage properly. You will feel and hear it.
Obviously with the machine off
- Thread starter mr haynes
- Start date
When you are changing gear you often have to turn the chuck by hand slightly to get the gear to engage properly. You will feel and hear it.
Obviously with the machine off
Rule no2, after "always remove the chuck key"IMPORTANT
When you are changing gear you often have to turn the chuck by hand slightly to get the gear to engage properly. You will feel and hear it.
Obviously with the machine off
It isn't as dangerous as people think. More likely to damage the bed than fly across the room.Rule no2, after "always remove the chuck key"
indy4x
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Maybe, however, back when I was in school, we had a nice selection of lathes in the metal workshop, couple of Boxfords and some bigger Harrisons
The Harrisons had a clutch lever on top of the headstock, motor was running all the time.
One day I put the chuck key in the chuck, at which point and the clutch lever decided to pop it into drive. Chuck spun round ripping the key out of my hand, key hit the bed then shot off skimming the side of my head and bouncing off the wall behind me
Mind the toys are always more valuable
??? Your video shows it is though... have I missed something?
Try this if you want to source some alternative inserts for that boring bar. The bar might have a part number on it too which will identify the relevant insert. It's definitely a TNMG though and it still looks like you have 3 usable corners on that insert (between both sides).
I like a sharp flat topped brazed carbide tool with a fairly big nose radius for skimming discs and run SLOW, but this is only my experience on a comparatively small lathe. If you get any chatter, stop or slow the spindle right down. You won't 'cut through' chatter, it will only get worse - it's caused by resonance so constant feed and constant spindle speed make it worse. For the amount of work you have to do, if you get any chatter, I'd consider turning the spindle by hand. You need to get the surface true by boring, not the surface finish perfect - emery will sort the surface finish from running slow, but it won't clean up bad chatter.
Only right at the end when he puts a magnet in the hole to hold the chuck key ion for longer??? Your video shows it is though... have I missed something?
oldbikedavey
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Just get the users manual and be done with it.
I'll check in a bit to see if Tony actually does the things , but I'd be surprised if he didn't.....
Been re-reading the bumf on lathes,co.uk and the red knob looks like a clutch lever.....my initial thoughts of red is danger appears to be correct!
iNf
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That's an interesting chuck with t-slots in, so you could use it as a faceplate. If you hold the drum in the same manner as the 3 jaw chuck it's going to be difficult to clock it in. If holding the drum by the outside you'll need to reverse the jaws as they will probably hit the bed otherwise. Definitely use a drawbar as already said. Apologies if you already know all this. I'd strongly recommend turning some bar 1st to get used to the controls before attempting the drum
