charlysays
Member
- Messages
- 397
- Location
- UK, Wales
Hi all,
New here... Looks a great forum.
I've decided this summer that I'd like to try my hand at a respray on my daily car which is a waste veg oil burning Mercedes c250 TD.
I have searched and read various forums extensively but still have some questions.
It is solid underneath and has less rust than others I've had in the past but is pretty ugly in flat red with areas of peeling lacquer.
I'm pretty adept with spot repairs of corrosion and using aerosols to get a good finish but have never used a spray gun. Worked as a boat builder for a long time so I'm familiar with basic paint prep principles, grading abrasives, feathering etc, trying to avoid sink issues.
I have lots of spare panels so I can paint about 2/3 of the car off the car on trestles which will hopefully take the stress out of it a bit and mean I don't have to take the car off the road for the whole job. Also means I can paint a few panels at a time so if anything goes wrong it won't be the whole car which could be affected. I plan on starting with just one wing or perhaps the rear bumper.
I have a large workshop, 150 ltr 14cfm compressor, sealey 1.3mm hvlp gun, air filter, and I'm currently building 50ft of copper pipe with drop legs to dry the air. I'll also use one of those devilbiss filters prior to the gun. I'm tempted to get myself a party tent type thing with a fan in the door to extract overspray and paint most of the car on trestles in there.
What I'm still unsure of is what paint to use. Isocyanate 2k is out of the question as I already have asthma and worked too long with other sensitising stuff like epoxy. 1k base 1k lacquer looks a faff as I just want direct gloss. Cellulose looks a bit labor intensive too.
I'm leaning towards a unibinder cured acrylic 2k such as jawel iso free 2k using a mask with appropriate filters.
I accept it'll take a while to harden.
Any thoughts on paints would be much appreciated... Is the valspar branded stuff better for example or is jawel just rebranding valspar?
With regards primer I was intending on feathering back lacquer peel then coating those areas with bilt hamber high bild which appears to be a yellow oxide type filler primer which is widely compatible with most top coats and from experience has great anti sink capabilities. Then applying direct gloss over a substrate which consists of keyed oe paint, some very old cellulose, very old rattle can lacquer and cured high bild. I may decide to coat all non oe areas with high bild if it might avoid reactions?. Would the feather edges of the high bild present a problem with sink or reactions? I know it hasn't been a problem before with rattle can top coats but not sure yet about iso free 2k.
Any corrosion I usually needle scale then use bilt hamber deox gel followed by electrox primer then high bild. I've had permanent cures using this method even after 8 years outdoors on what was badly pitted steel so I'm happy atleast that recurring rust won't wreck the paint job.
The car really can't look worse than it does right now and would have low value even with a top notch respray however I love these cars and it has high value to me with it being extremely reliable and running on essentially free fuel which saves around £1500 a year. Seem like an ideal first respray vehicle.
Any tips very much appreciated
Cheers
New here... Looks a great forum.
I've decided this summer that I'd like to try my hand at a respray on my daily car which is a waste veg oil burning Mercedes c250 TD.
I have searched and read various forums extensively but still have some questions.
It is solid underneath and has less rust than others I've had in the past but is pretty ugly in flat red with areas of peeling lacquer.
I'm pretty adept with spot repairs of corrosion and using aerosols to get a good finish but have never used a spray gun. Worked as a boat builder for a long time so I'm familiar with basic paint prep principles, grading abrasives, feathering etc, trying to avoid sink issues.
I have lots of spare panels so I can paint about 2/3 of the car off the car on trestles which will hopefully take the stress out of it a bit and mean I don't have to take the car off the road for the whole job. Also means I can paint a few panels at a time so if anything goes wrong it won't be the whole car which could be affected. I plan on starting with just one wing or perhaps the rear bumper.
I have a large workshop, 150 ltr 14cfm compressor, sealey 1.3mm hvlp gun, air filter, and I'm currently building 50ft of copper pipe with drop legs to dry the air. I'll also use one of those devilbiss filters prior to the gun. I'm tempted to get myself a party tent type thing with a fan in the door to extract overspray and paint most of the car on trestles in there.
What I'm still unsure of is what paint to use. Isocyanate 2k is out of the question as I already have asthma and worked too long with other sensitising stuff like epoxy. 1k base 1k lacquer looks a faff as I just want direct gloss. Cellulose looks a bit labor intensive too.
I'm leaning towards a unibinder cured acrylic 2k such as jawel iso free 2k using a mask with appropriate filters.
I accept it'll take a while to harden.
Any thoughts on paints would be much appreciated... Is the valspar branded stuff better for example or is jawel just rebranding valspar?
With regards primer I was intending on feathering back lacquer peel then coating those areas with bilt hamber high bild which appears to be a yellow oxide type filler primer which is widely compatible with most top coats and from experience has great anti sink capabilities. Then applying direct gloss over a substrate which consists of keyed oe paint, some very old cellulose, very old rattle can lacquer and cured high bild. I may decide to coat all non oe areas with high bild if it might avoid reactions?. Would the feather edges of the high bild present a problem with sink or reactions? I know it hasn't been a problem before with rattle can top coats but not sure yet about iso free 2k.
Any corrosion I usually needle scale then use bilt hamber deox gel followed by electrox primer then high bild. I've had permanent cures using this method even after 8 years outdoors on what was badly pitted steel so I'm happy atleast that recurring rust won't wreck the paint job.
The car really can't look worse than it does right now and would have low value even with a top notch respray however I love these cars and it has high value to me with it being extremely reliable and running on essentially free fuel which saves around £1500 a year. Seem like an ideal first respray vehicle.
Any tips very much appreciated
Cheers