Fillet: hole?

[Debs.]

I`ve begun fabricating a dropped, towing hitch-plate for my nephew`s modified Land Rover 90.

Using my Quasi-Arc: 3.2 mm./6013`s at 60 Volts/124 Amps. (single pass)
When making one of the fillet runs; `twixt the 13 mm. back-plate and the 5 mm. sides, I noticed a small hole appeared near one edge of the fillet (see pic).....I`m thinking it was a momentary-change in rod position that caused it; but, perhaps it is from some other cause? (contamination etc.)......should I grind it out and re-do the run?

 

[Paul.]

That happens to all of us from time to time, most probably just a blowhole caused by a bit of millscale or rust, can also be happen when the electrode coating gets damaged, for where it is on that stiffener I wouldn't worry too much, the rest of the joint is very sound, if it bothers you, you could fill it by using a 2.5 electrode at high amps say 110, and just briefly touch it in, although you may make it look worse, there is a bit of a knack to it.

 

[brightspark]

have u had a good look at the welding on the ones u buy the paint will cover that nowt wrong with that

 

[Arsonista]

That's a nice weld. Leave it Debs, like Paul said, if you try and fill it, chances are it will stand out like a sore thumb.

 

[GeorgeB]

That's impressive. I wish I could lay down a weld looking as neat as that (not that I've tried on a structure like that). If you are in search of perfection, I think you're almost there!

 

[gordon stephenson]

Perfectly good sound weld Debs, as above the paint will take care of that minor imperfection, As you will already know the strength of your drop plate will far exceed any future loading it will ever see.
Nice job,

 

[mike os]

if I could stick that neatly.......


near perfect that Debs ( he says in his best "impersonate an expert" voice)

 

[Debs.]

Thank you for the advice and the kind words, chaps!

It`s great having the forum to check with when I`m unsure about something.

I`m learning every day and today I tried a bit of propane-preheating; which made quite a difference to penetration at the start of a run on a really-thick 'plate to lug' fillet.
Perhaps perversely, I`ve found MMA to to be easier to learn than MIG; despite 'everyone and his dog' telling me that MIG welding is the easier process to pick-up.

 

[decepticon]

pretty sure that it wont be falling apart in service looking at the rest of the run
i have had these before when using the bohler eti rods which had a thick flux coating, if you dont run at the right speed and rod angle the flux runs infront of the weld and small holes like those appear, it does'nt happen if i use bohler ohv which have a thinner coating.
what 6013's are you using?
cheers

 

[Drains]

Ooh, I can foresee a shocking crack propagating from that hole debs. Any self respecting engineer would grind that out and do it again.
Hopeless.

 

[Hitch]

Better than my stick Debs

Things like that i buzz a part worn grinding disc into it and lay a bit over it, then grind it back, feathering in the new bit of weld.

Itll be alright

 

[PTvor]

Perhaps perversely, I`ve found MMA to to be easier to learn than MIG; despite 'everyone and his dog' telling me that MIG welding is the easier process to pick-up.

Well, whatever you're talking about, snooker, maths, shootiing, drawing....... occasionally you find naturals. They have no problem doing it, they have big problems in not rubbing it in. The very worst can do whatever it is with no trouble, but just can't take it seriously.

It looks like a near perfect weld and the pinhole could have been caused by almost anything, a flake of dirt, a fault in the rod, just anything. Look at welds on trailers sold commercially. Look closely.

 

[mike os]

hell no... dont look..... it is scarey

 

[Robotstar5]

I think the only thing you've got to worry about is the chassis coming apart, because the hitch sure as h*ll won't with welding like that!

 

[gavuk]

welding looks great Debs ,leave it as it is ,for worse slag inclusion etc i change to the next size rod down(2.5mm) and leave amps the same fill the hole and then back to normal welding (3.25mm)....

 

[Debs.]

Not without a hitch.

Just a quick picture update on my tow hitch project....(areas in red-oxide primer are the new structure I`ve made/fitted.)

....anyone need a battleship moving?

Working away from my home based (and monstrously heavy) Quasi-Arc today; I borrowed an inverter-powered (MMA) to tack and run beads on some component/chassis areas that were too-thick for my MIG.
What a nice little machine that inverter is; ran 2.5`s very tidily (even off an extension cable)....`my first experience of using an inverter unit; the quite 'different' sounding arc took a bit of getting used to, but 'all in all' very pleasing.

 

[3Rs]

To fix this problem,

1. grinder with cutting disc.
2. cut a line down the center of the weld, two this approx 5-10 times.
3. have the cut line approx 25mm above and below the defect.
4. start Vee out the but by this you are cleaning out the center and sides with at one go.
5. once you have vee out the defect refill the hole you have just done,
6. if you have excess build up on the starts and stops tickle out with a grinder,

If done correctly you wont see the repair.

 

[brightspark]

its a tow hitch not a cooling pipe in a nuclear power station the rest of vehicle will rot before that gives. ive seen bigger pinholes in a compressor tank weld

 

[Uniqueusername]

ive seen bigger pinholes in a compressor tank weld

Wasn't a Rednal Pneumatics tank was it ?
(Sorry, just having a dig at any local RP lads )

 

[brightspark]

Wasn't a Rednal Pneumatics tank was it ?
(Sorry, just having a dig at any local RP lads )

dunno i i just make a point of lookin at profesionaly built stuff