electronic brake motor wind back

[Justme]

1, You've never owned a 90s/00s Honda then
Rear callipers are notorious for the handbrake seizing, I've repaired or replaced loads in my time, and I'm not a mechanic by trade.

2, Or the old corsa handbrake cables, common for binding/corroding and sticking the shoes on and cooking the drums - all exposed cables going through 90 degree bends on plastic wear plates directly subject to road spray. Genius design.

3, I think they only time I ever use a handbrake is at the MOT, sick of fixing them.
I've often considered converting to a hydraulic and just leaving the cables in for show to pass the MOT – that might actually make it a useful feature.

1, Never owned or driven a Honda.

2, So not due to use then.

3, more likely to seize if you dont use it.

 

[Justme]

Or an iveco daily!

I must have reconned 3 pairs of them for the camper we had over the 4 years we had it.

I have had two daily's.

One did have seized brakes after it had been sat for nearly 12 months unused. When they were in daily (lol) use they were no problem.

 

[MetalMonkey]

1, Never owned or driven a Honda.

2, So not due to use then.

3, more likely to seize if you dont use it.

2. - But if you don't use it, it can't seize on - that's the point.

If you do put it on, it often doesn't come off unless you (for example) get out, reach under the rear, grab hold of the cable which enters the drum, and yank it back to free it off from binding the shoes. Which is a tad inconvenient.
Cleaning and lubing up the cable and slide will last a few weeks/months depending on the season.
Replacing the cable and the plastic guide usually resolves the problem until the plastic coating of the cable wears through again, which of course it will quite quickly, being exposed to road grit and spray from the rear wheels. Rinse and repeat.

Limiting the use of the handbrake, prolongs the inevitable replacement cycle.

3 - As above, if you don't use it, it can't seize on because it is already off.
Handbrake is always (IME) the last brake test on MOT, so if it did stick on, providing you pass the brake efficiency and balance you could back it off manually once you leave the test centre. Allegedly. So I've heard.

I'm not condoning driving around with a non functioning handbrake, but I have encountered that situation so many times on several different vehicles, I can say with some conviction that yes, handbrakes can and do stick irrespective of how little or often you use them.
Some work fine, some are just very poorly designed. If you haven't encountered the latter, I'd chalk it up as a win - as they are mighty frustrating.

I would never even trust a working one - in gear and wheels towards any downhill kerb for parking, good clutch control for hill starts and everything else. Simples.

 

[keithski122]

I haven't read all the thread but I think it must be down to peoples choice of cars or lack of servicing.
In 34 years of driving I've never had a breakdown,no major repairs apart from agearbox rebuild which I knew about when I bought the car, no warning lights showing again apart from when I bought the car(different car), never had a handbreak fail or stick.Might of replaced a couple of bulbs, again maybe a couple of punctures. I did have an ign module fail but it was still drivable when cold.Also had a seatbelt stalk fail. The only times I've had to do repair work was when I was driving older cars(beetles, minis and an anglia) which all needed constant attention to keep in usable working order.
I have come across seizing handbrakes on disk brake cars and its usualy caused by overtightening of the handbrake and lack of movement causing them to seize.

 

[premmington]

I haven't read all the thread but I think it must be down to peoples choice of cars or lack of servicing.
In 34 years of driving I've never had a breakdown,no major repairs apart from agearbox rebuild which I knew about when I bought the car, no warning lights showing again apart from when I bought the car(different car), never had a handbreak fail or stick.Might of replaced a couple of bulbs, again maybe a couple of punctures. I did have an ign module fail but it was still drivable when cold.Also had a seatbelt stalk fail. The only times I've had to do repair work was when I was driving older cars(beetles, minis and an anglia) which all needed constant attention to keep in usable working order.
I have come across seizing handbrakes on disk brake cars and its usualy caused by overtightening of the handbrake and lack of movement causing them to seize.

I have changed "skip loads" of rear calipers in my workshop over the last few years - I put it down to drive thru car washing - TFR and mild wheel cleaning acid and pressure washers.

 

[Melvyn Best]

I have changed "skip loads" of rear calipers in my workshop over the last few years - I put it down to drive thru car washing - TFR and mild wheel cleaning acid and pressure washers.

Not so sure these hand car wash places use TFR. We had one at the local garage I worked at that would buy a couple of 200 lt drums of concentrated hydrochloride acid that was diluted then sprayed on the wheels . Don’t know if it still goes on ?

 

[brightspark]

i wont go to car wash because they use tfr. it strips the polish of the van i do it myself by hand using wash and wax then twice a year a decent wax polish

 

[Red'n'Black]

Problem is, at the economies of scale in car manufacturing, and the need to make each car quicker and easier, and the design of car interiors, fitting a lever/pedal to a sufficiently strong structure somewhere in the car, routing a cable/cables, provide a means to adjust it, mechanism in the caliper to operate it (time consuming to assemble etc) and its cheaper to make it bolt on, plug in.

Right. The car manufacturers have gone off in a direction that suits their purposes, but it doesn't suit mine.

That's OK. There seems to still be a ready supply of 20+ year old sheds with plenty of life left in them. I do wonder how many of the current generation will still be around in 20 years' time though. I've seen three cars written off in the last couple of years at 8 - 9 years old, mechanically perfectly ok but with electrical faults so complex as to be beyond economic repair.

 

[Chippie]

Right. The car manufacturers have gone off in a direction that suits their purposes, but it doesn't suit mine.

That's OK. There seems to still be a ready supply of 20+ year old sheds with plenty of life left in them. I do wonder how many of the current generation will still be around in 20 years' time though. I've seen three cars written off in the last couple of years at 8 - 9 years old, mechanically perfectly ok but with electrical faults so complex as to be beyond economic repair.

Wonder how many leccy cars will get to being 20 yrs old…..

 

[brightspark]

Wonder how many leccy cars will get to being 20 yrs old…..

the cars will but the batterys wont so worthless

 

[Chippie]

the cars will but the batterys wont so worthless

My point exactly…

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

the cars will but the batterys wont so worthless

That's optimistic.

Especially considering the electronics are sending newer cars to early graves.

 

[premmington]

the cars will but the batterys wont so worthless

We been repairing i3/i8 330E X3/5E 5 and 7 series BMW's for years now.

It is not the batteries that are failing - it the EME/KLE/SME units that fail (wholesale).

Some of these EME modules (inverter drive controllers) cost £4.6 to £9k

I have only changed one bearing in a electric motor on a car - this was Skoda hybrid - this was mech failure not an electrical issue.

--------------

I have had countless monster battery's out of hybrid cars to get access to safety boxes - but I have never as yet replaced a main EV battery in a car. I have replaced loads of AUX batteries - but not one single main multicell battery. I have only quoted two out - one for Toyota Prius and one for Nissan Leaf (both customers declined and the cars were sold as salvage).

 

[stuvy]

We been repairing i3/i8 330E X3/5E 5 and 7 series BMW's for years now.

It is not the batteries that are failing - it the EME/KLE/SME units that fail (wholesale).

Some of these EME modules (inverter drive controllers) cost £4.6 to £9k

I have only changed one bearing in a electric motor on a car - this was Skoda hybrid - this was mech failure not an electrical issue.

--------------

I have had countless monster battery's out of hybrid cars to get access to safety boxes - but I have never as yet replaced a main EV battery in a car. I have replaced loads of AUX batteries - but not one single main multicell battery. I have only quoted two out - one for Toyota Prius and one for Nissan Leaf (both customers declined and the cars were sold as salvage).

I know two people with leafs that are beyond economic repair

 

[bricol]

I wonder if they will become "classic"?

How many of us have repaired cars that it made no financial sense to as we'd had them forever, or they came from relatives, or we just liked them?

 

[willie.macleod]

I know two people with leafs that are beyond economic repair

What's wrong with them? The market is strong for Leaf parts, huge demand for battery modules from broken packs and all the electrical drivetrain bits in demand for conversions. The market needs more vehicles being broken down at the moment to bring costs of repairs down.

 

[stuvy]

What's wrong with them? The market is strong for Leaf parts, huge demand for battery modules from broken packs and all the electrical drivetrain bits in demand for conversions. The market needs more vehicles being broken down at the moment to bring costs of repairs down.

Both are academics that

“Pay a man to fix it”

 

[willie.macleod]

Both are academics that

“Pay a man to fix it”

Tell them to stick them up on Ebay with £1 start and no reserve. They may be surprised at what others will pay who are willing to roll up their sleeves and fix or break them.

 

[eddie49]

Tell them to stick them up on Ebay with £1 start and no reserve. They may be surprised at what others will pay who are willing to roll up their sleeves and fix or break them.

Here is an example of an auction for a high-mileage Leaf with a failing module ( = 2 Li-Ion cells ) in the main battery:

Automatic Electric nissan Leaf tekna 30kwh 100% electric | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Automatic Electric nissan Leaf tekna 30kwh 100% electric at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

When fixed, I guess it should be worth £8k or £9k.

 

[stuvy]

Tell them to stick them up on Ebay with £1 start and no reserve. They may be surprised at what others will pay who are willing to roll up their sleeves and fix or break them.

They part ex’d them

To be honest if you buy an electric car I’m not gonna help anyone with them