Electric sheet metal cutters

[JohnH]

I am after a cheap electric sheet metal cutter and came across these https://www.amazon.com/slp/electric-metal-shear/rsnbdfc7d58o9x7 They are just what I'm after. I have air cutters like these and find them easy to use and quite accurate.

I cant find any like them in the UK. Are they a new kind of tool, so only available in the US so far or am I looking in the wrong place (or more likely using the wrong UK name).

As an aside can you run US 110 volt tools in the UK using a 110 volt transformer? I have one of those so importing may be an option.

Thanks for your help.

 

[mike 109444]

If you already have the air type AND an old B&D type drill (think 1970's) it is possible to transfer the cutter head and offset cam over to the drill.

 

[Agroshield]

They are not new. As you say, this style, which is called double cut shears, is rare in mains-powered here in UK. Lots of air ones. We seem to have gone cordless over here, with Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee and DeWalt all available in 18v. Have a look at Machine Mart for the best selection all on one page (not necessarily the best price).

US ones no problem. Their power is 60Hz, so at worst, the tool will run at 5/6 the speed.

 

[mike 109444]

Initially I made up an adapter to fit my Bosch drill (it was crude ) first pic
Then I made up an off set bush that would screw onto the front of an older drill. The part of the drill that the side handle would normally go on needs to be same size as the bore of the cutter head for this to work well. The bush that I made up has the hole on the middle "off set" and the outside diameter made to fit inside the ball bearing race. Using an older drill has the advantages of 1) using a drill that is probable gathering dust (unless you are a certain yellow aardvark from Swindon ) 2) the slower speed that these drill run at is much more suited to this 3) Using the air version takes a lot of air/big compressor ! 4) It's a lot cheaper than the bought version to the point that if you have need of one and an old drill then buy an air version, remove the head, do the mod and throw the air part away ! I know you can buy the head assembly on ebay but it's not far off the price of a complete air one when lidle or aldi have them in.

 

[JohnH]

Guys, thank you for all the information.

Now I do have a very old blue black and Decker and a gash air "double cut shears" so I might just have a look at merging them together.

Had a look at Machine Mart and the prices are eye watering.

I do have a Makita JS3200 which is a bit of a beast and I must say that I find it difficult keeping to a line, which is why I was looking for something a bit more controllable. I might just have to use my air shears in the short term. A set of electric ones would just be so convenient for the odd cut or two.

 

[JohnH]

Well, making a bit of progress



until I took the B&D chuck off only to find the arbor/adapter was still joined to the chuck!!!!

How in the love of dog do I get it off the chuck. There doesn't appear to be a screw inside. Does it just unscrew? I did try putting the round portion of the arbor in a vice and wacking the key when it was in the chuck. It didnt seem to want to move. Was I being a bit timid?

 

[Seadog]

It's possibly not removable.

 

[Agroshield]

It's possibly not removable.

Looks like it:

http://service.blackanddecker.co.uk/BD/GB/en-GB/Document/Drawing?documentId=10103&productId=691#
https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/black-and-decker-h68v-type-18-drill-spare-parts-s687/

Can you identify the thread that is on the chuck? And then make a copy that will screw into the drill with the other end to suit the nut? If you do not mind sacrificing the chuck, you can push off the sleeve, remove the ring and jaws and turn down and thread what is left to fit the eccentric nut.

Maybe you should do a quick assessment of the speeds to make sure they are compatible. The reason I say this is the small gears in the photo look like part of a planetary arrangement, which is usually quite a big reduction (3 or 4 to 1). If you are lucky, the base air motor will run at a gazillion rpm so its reduced speed may match the electric one close enough.

 

[Seadog]

3/8" UNF is pretty standard if I recall correctly. A piece of studding ought to do the job.

It's easy enough to see if the chuck screws into the eccentric.

 

[JohnH]

Agroshield thanks for finding the parts diagram.The chuck looks like it doesn't have a separate arbor. I dont really want to disassemble the chuck just yet as I would like the option to pop it back on the drill in the future. The wife holds it dear, as she bought it for me as a birthday present in the early eighties and was very pleased to see that I still used it.

Seadog, I've just ordered some fully threaded unf bolts and some thin lock nuts. All the threads on the Eccentric nut and the B&D chuck and body are 3/8"-20 UNFs so I should be good to go in a day or two.

The eccentric nut and bearing are still available for Sealey air shears for £5.60 I might just buy those as well.

I'll report back when I've got it running.

Again guys, thanks for you help.

 

[JohnH]

The 3/8"unf machine screw and lock nut arrived from Spalding Fasteners in record time, so I was able to press on with the "build",



Cut the head off the machine screw, screwed the rest into the drill, screwed on the lock nut, screwed on the eccentric nut and bearing, fitted the cutter head, two minutes so far, all going well.

Grabbed a piece of 1.4mm steel and sliced a couple of bits off. Hmmm, the cutter head is starting to detach from the drill. Not good. Tighten it up, I mean really tighten it up, try cutting again. Nope its slipping off again. Oh bother!!!

Thats as far as I'ves got. If you look at the front of the CAT106 gear assembly where it attaches to the cutter head and that on the B&D, its obvious what the problem is. Its a bit short and not perfectly formed.

I need another drill, in fact I need one just like mikes red/mauve one.

So mike, how well does your one work? Is it worth the effort?

 

[Agroshield]

How much meat is there on the end face of the B&D drill? Enough to take M3 or M4 tapped holes? You could make a thick washer from aluminium and bolt it to the end face of the drill to extend the clamping surface.

If it is not round or is tapered, you can dismantle the drill, set the part up on a lathe faceplate or on a milling machine and skim turn or external bore it round and parallel. A coke can shim and it should be OK.

 

[JohnH]

How much meat is there on the end face of the B&D drill? Enough to take M3 or M4 tapped holes?

I took it apart and there's not much. An 1/8" maybe. I dont think its enough.
I do have some washers that are a gnats larger and I could make up a washer with legs to go back to the two bolts. You can see one of then beneath the arrow in the pic above. I can cut some notches in the other washers to accepts the legs. That might work.

 

[mike 109444]

Sorry John I have only just seen the problems you are having.
I did at first fit the shear head to a Bosch drill but thought it looked a bit naff and had the other drill not being used.
Ideally it needs a drill that has a longer stub on front (usually used on some for the side handle to clamp onto.
I made up a stepped adapter that had the front step the right size for the cutter head and the rear step fits over Bosch side handle mount. Not lath used in the manufacture ! just some odd bits of tube

 

[JohnH]

Mike, thanks for that. Do you think that the plastic body of the drill is strong enough. Did it work ok?

 

[timgunn1962]

No idea on the cutter.

US power tools will usually run on 50 Hz 110V, just as they would on 60 Hz 110V.

Most power tools use (brushed) Universal motors which will run on AC or DC and don't really care about the Frequency. They are usually small, light and spin faster than the mains frequency, then are geared down to the tool speed. If the tool has brushes, it's pretty safe to assume it'll perform the same.

Induction motors will rotate at a lower speed when run on 50 Hz than when run on 60 Hz. These are used on machinery more than on power tools.

 

[mike 109444]

Mike, thanks for that. Do you think that the plastic body of the drill is strong enough. Did it work ok?

Yes it did work just looked pants and I had the older drill doing nothing) The "boss" I attached it to is the one that a side handle would clamp to so is fairly strong. I even made up a cordless one from a length of sink drain pipe and a gutted cordless drill !