E36 random work

  1. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Took few pictures of the improvements and repairs done for E36.
    DSC_4321_blur.jpg
    Subframe bush looking crusty:
    DSC_4324.jpg Rear anti roll bar mounting point reinforcement from 3mm flat steel:
    DSC_4330.jpg
    M3 reinforcement plates welded to the chassis mounting points and brushed first coat of epoxy:
    DSC_4332.jpg DSC_4336.jpg
    Subframe bushing puller made from some rod, large socket, 3" exhaust pipe and flat steel:
    DSC_4340.jpg
     
    ewmIreland, Bear and slim_boy_fat like this.
  2. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    E36 sitting in a shed and this time dealing with boot lid rust issues. Trim mounting holes and lower corner showing paint bubbles plus inner seam sealing was compromised allowing moisture to travel under paint.
    Turns out fix was easier than I expected and metal was still in fairly good condition so less complicated body filler solution was used.
    DSC_4389_e36_trunk_lid_rust.jpg DSC_4393_e36_trunk_lid_rust.jpg DSC_4395_e36_trunk_seam_rust.jpg

    Didn't take pictures in middle stages but it went approximately...
    Peeled damaged seam sealant and wire wheeled folded edge, ground rust spots away and used skim goat of fiberglass and standard body filler, painted with epoxy primer and renewed seam sealer best I could.
    Lid after painting:
    DSC_4401_e36_trunk_seam_fixed.jpg DSC_4402_e36_trunk_lid_painted.jpg

    Will allow it to cure completely before colour sanding and buffing process, final colour might never match 100% on a red car but I think it will look better now without rust spots.
     
    eLuSiVeMiTe, slim_boy_fat and MarkMc like this.
  3. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    This time fixing badly rusted front anti-roll bar mounting points, definitely another e36 weak point found.
    DSC_4384_e36_sway_bar_mount_rust.jpg
    DSC_4387_e36_sway_bar_mount_rust.jpg

    New mounts from BMW dealer were reasonably priced:
    DSC-4428-e36-sway-bar-new-mounts.jpg

    DSC-4429-e36-sway-bar-frame-rail.jpg
    DSC-4434-e36-sway-bar-mount-welded.jpg

    Open seam between mount and frame rail allows dirt and water to fill the thing, recipe for rusting so it needs some additional seam sealing.
    DSC-4433-e36-sway-bar-open-seam.jpg

    Finished result. Painted with epoxy, seam sealed all a way around, sprayed with anti-stone chip and insides protected with Dinitrol Ml.
    DSC-4442-e36-front-sway-bar-mount-finished.jpg

    Cheers till next time!
     
    jpmillermatic likes this.
  4. SIP-Free

    SIP-Free Member

    Messages:
    991
    Location:
    Dan Saff!
    Can you explain, "..... used skim coat of fiberglass and standard body filler..." a little bit more? I've not heard of this before.
     
  5. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Sure, skim coat = very thin coat of filler and products were fiberglass reinforced body filler and "standard body filler" was my normal polyester body filler. Intention was to use fiberglass filler first to seal any potential pinholes (I don't think there were any but extra insurance taken) and add a water resistant layer between metal and top coatings. Normal body filler was used to smooth out rather coarse fiberglass filler and it's easier to get it sanded for paint ready stage.
     
  6. Miggy89

    Miggy89 Member

    Messages:
    129
    Location:
    Somerset uk
    some good looking work there keep us updated
     
  7. Jim Davey

    Jim Davey RH Davey Welding Supplies

    Messages:
    5,346
    Location:
    Southampton
    Nice, I do like a good 3 series. Definitely a bucket list car for me.
     
  8. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Hi. I have been again working with my E36.
    First couple older pictures from the stock pile:

    Fabricated reinforcement plates to the rear trailing arm mounting points from 3 mm steel:
    DSC_5555.jpg
    DSC_5584.jpg
    DSC_5600.jpg

    Got a BMW limited slip differential:
    DSC_4583.jpg


    More recent pictures.
    Already patched small rust hole from rear wheel well where mounting stud for fuel neck would mount:
    DSC_6277.jpg
    DSC_6258.jpg

    Trunk floor had some surface rust that was wire brushed with air tools, treated with rust converter, painted with 2k epoxy primer and painted to color:
    DSC_6268.jpg
    DSC_6275.jpg

    Will continue to the next post...
     
  9. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Rust has been growing where eyes can't see, behind sill covers where rear jacking point is located:
    DSC_6281.jpg
    DSC_6283.jpg
    Inner structure of the jacking point was still strong metal, it got wire wheeled and treated with rust converter before patching the hole:
    DSC_6294.jpg
    Fabricated patch panel with some holes for plug welding to the inner structure, inside of panel was painted with etch primer and weld thru primer in areas where welds would go:
    DSC_6301.jpg
    Welded it up:
    DSC_6310.jpg
    DSC_6308.jpg
    Painted with epoxy, hollowed with bit of body filler and finished with another coat of epoxy:
    DSC_6319.jpg
    Painted it up and inside was coated with Dinitrol ML cavity wax:
    DSC_6323.jpg
     
    jpmillermatic and lazybones51 like this.
  10. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Some time ago it came to my knowledge that boot lid on E36 had a tendency to develop cracks where latch will bolt and if it get bad enough latch itself may brake.
    Sure enough cracks were developing also on my car:
    DSC_6336.jpg
    DSC_6334.jpg
    Cracks were stop drilled with 2 mm drill bit and made slight groove to improve weld penetration with dremel and some tiny cutting disc:
    DSC_6338.jpg
    Welded:
    DSC_6345.jpg
    Ground smooth, carbide deburr was used to shape bolt holes:
    DSC_6349.jpg

    Repair was sprayed with epoxy but rest of it is still in making. Unfortunately I will have to revisit my boot lid paint job that i did 2 years ago. Rust has been continue it's forming under the body filler causing minor paint bubbles. Will try slightly different method for painting this time (rust converter, epoxy and if it needs filler it will be done on top of epoxy and everything will be sealed with epoxy again before final color).
     
    aguycalledsteve, hunter27 and Dcal like this.
  11. aguycalledsteve

    aguycalledsteve Member

    Messages:
    468
    Location:
    Mansfield
    I can't help but see faces in these pictures. My Pareidolia must be playing up again.

    Good work on the repairs though, I like reading threads like this. Inspiring.
     
  12. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    You've been a busy boy, keep up the good work :thumbup:
     
  13. wookie Member

    Messages:
    2,597
    Location:
    .
    Do it, I had a e36 years ago, it was a great car. Was comfortable munching the motorway miles and then a blast to drive on the twisty bits, very sure footed but equally you could be a hooligan and get the rear out if you wanted. The biggest problem with mine was it ate front suspension bits for fun (they are known for it) but then I did give it a hard time :D
     
  14. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Another set of pictures coming up.
    Boot lid got paint:
    DSC_6369.jpg
    Now working with doors that had some rust spots from stone chips:
    DSC_6371.jpg
    DSC_6382.jpg
    DSC_6384.jpg
    DSC_6390.jpg
    Treated with rust converter and primed with coat of epoxy:
    DSC_6402.jpg
     
    jpmillermatic and slim_boy_fat like this.
  15. 130 Member

    Messages:
    668
    UK North West
    Well done, I have two E36 Coupes and the level of body rot definitely has gone up exponentially since they passed 20 years old
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  16. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Alive & well, or projects?
     
  17. 130 Member

    Messages:
    668
    UK North West
    328 is daily drive since 2009 and 325 is wife's daily since 2010 (cost £600)
     
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  18. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    More door pictures as they got done finally.
    Doors were removed to give better access to the insides and front edges:
    DSC_6426.jpg
    DSC_6429.jpg
    Rust has gone under the seam sealer at the front doors and traveled further than it looks:
    DSC_6437.jpg
    Affected seam sealer removed for treatment:
    DSC_6443.jpg
    There is possibly few ways how to replicate outlook of factory seamsealer if facing this issue. There may be products that are easier to match or can be sanded to match when cured. Another option is to form a tool from wood, plastic may work too and smooth out the sealer to match after it's applied. Then there is a way where old sealant got cut with sharp blade and "glued" to the top of thinner layer of new sealant.
    I settled to make a tool from wood and using soapy water it turned out acceptable for a driver but next time I will spray the sealer with wax and grease remover to make it even slicker and easier to form than what the water did.

    Never the less after priming them doors around ten times they got some red paint and color sanding / polishing for final result:
    DSC_6449.jpg
    Doors were quite lot of work, that's one for the 2 door car's for sure.
    Then to the front end....
     
  19. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Pulled some of the front end to pieces.
    Front fenders had some rust ended needing some small patches welded to the wheel sides:
    DSC_6458.jpg

    Front clip primed:
    DSC_6465.jpg
    Fenders primed:
    DSC_6474.jpg
    New paint sprayed:
    DSC_6477.jpg

    Fenders were hanged for painting:
    DSC_6482.jpg

    That's all for now. Cheers and thanks!
     
  20. TwoThumbs

    TwoThumbs Member

    Messages:
    114
    Location:
    Finland
    Did quick scuff and shoot for sill covers while they were still removed:
    DSC_6510.jpg

    Next some my favorite work with chassis reinforcement. Went and pulled front subframe:
    DSC_6502.jpg
    Made doubling plates from 2 mm steel for engine mount bolt holes:
    DSC_6505.jpg
    DSC_6506.jpg
    And 3 mm outer boxing plates, corners left open to improve water draining:
    DSC_6525.jpg
    DSC_6524.jpg
     
    jpmillermatic likes this.
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