A guy on another forum said it's a lot of bother to convert them to electric start, I'm tending to believe him, but as I've got most of the gear I'm gonna plod on. It's only this bit that needs sorting the rest is as it was taken apart, ( if I can remember how to put it back) Norm.
Need to fab a guard for the alternator set up and prob have to relocate the fuel tank, in which case will prob have to fit a lift pump. And so it goes on. On hols tomorrow so off line for a while. Norm.
Just read through this - great work! - A head's up on the M45G starter, in that they come in many forms, not all interchangeable. They have varying number of teeth on the pinion, rotation varies, some pre-engaged others aren't. Also the mount varies. The early ones have a solenoid in-built on the back plate - avoid these as the solenoid is virtually unobtainium. They start at £75 and a good original will make £5-600 ! Have a look on ebay to see a good selection of whats available. Common on Jag's, some Triumph TR's, Jowetts, Astons,and many commercials
Got the tin ware done eventually. The belt guard took a bit of fettling as there isn't one made for this model and had to fab it from scratch. I can start to put the lumps back together now. Norm.
Well I decided to give the alternator some protection from the elements etc. That will be it until march.
I'm going to wire it when I get back, not being right into electrickery I might need a bit of guidance. Batt to starter Ok. so the rest is a bit grainy, 2 wires to alt 1 from ign in, heavy 1 out back to batt and one from ign to starter. Is that it?. it has to be simple (same as me) It's only a dumper so it just needs to start and charge, accessories might come later.
Alternator wiring is reasonably straight forward for that type of alternator (Lucas ACR/A series) The two large spade terminals go to the battery. Depending on the exact spec of the alternator, both terminals may simply be paralled/joined together, or one is the output, and one is a battery sense. Easy option, is just wire both to the battery positive using reasonable sized wire. Given you won't be using that much power, and I doubt the alternator will be spinning all that fast, I'd probably aim for some wire rated for around 25-30A. The small spade connector beside the large spades needs to be connected to positive via a 2.2W (or equivalent) warning lamp. The reason for the relatively large bulb, is it's relied on to excite the alternator. Without it, the alternator would probably have to spin up to 3-4000 RPM before it would self excite, which I doubt this setup will ever achieve. Off course, 2.2W warning lamps are pretty hard to come by now, so easy option is fit whatever warning lamp you can find, then add a 5W 60-80ohm resistor in parallel with the lamp. Also given it's a basic dumper with a pull stop, you'll probably want to wire in a suitable 12V buzzer as well to avoid the ignition being left on. Just wire it in parallel with the warning light bulb. If there are any other spade/stud terminals outwith the main three, it'll likely be a tacho feed, which you can just ignore.
Pretty much any small bulb works to excite the alternator, don’t get too hung up on it or worry about adding resisters. The smaller the bulb you tend to find that you have to give the engine a few revs before the bulb goes out when you start the engine, not a big deal and it’s quite common on agricultural equipment.
I think I would put a buzzer in the circuit to make sure it was all switched off, else next time the battery would be flat.
Maybe if you aren’t used to switching the ignition off when using a pull stop. Or you could connect a solenoid for key stop... Might not apply on this engine but oil pressure switches are great for wiring buzzers to. Means if anything ever goes wrong you might get chance to save the engine.
looks a lot like the one I want rid of, correction, my wife wants rid of!, I cut off all the rusty bits, and left them off, life is too short to start another hobby restoring plant! I already need to live to 120!
