the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
If the relief valve failed you would lose all pressure and your warning light would come on
- Thread starter norsa
- Start date
Standard oil pump design garethp.
The oil HAS to go through the filter to get to main\ big end & cam bearings also to lube rocker shaft, follow the oil flow diagram.
The sump gasket looks an aftermarket product & appears to have sealant on it ? has the motor been pulled down just before you had it it looks very clean internally this could account for clean oil, how clean was the old oil you removed black & gungy or black & clean (difficult to explain what I mean)
I think it has drained down & you are over thinking the problem, but we have all been there at some time or another, again personalty I would have fitted a pressure gauge before stripping motor, the only way for the oil to bypass filter is a cracked block ! I have seen this on an old engine that was frost damaged the crack was running from the thread on oil filter allowing oil to escape into return channel but that was the least of the problem.
If you have checked pump turns OK so not a drive fault, blow air through the slot in the oil filter housing it should come out of the oil pump doubt if you will get that much pressure in there, just check it is not leaking anywhere else, that covers the pump to filter bit the blow air down center hole you should see oil exiting rocker oil feed hole & other placesI think there was gasket between pump & block,
this is all out of the dim recesses of my mind & at least 30 years old
Still think it is filter problem but now you are there drop a big end & main look at bearings
Erm I know its a standard pump design but I wanted to make sure Norsa had removed the cover and oil pickup pipe and it wasn't missing.
He's has said the oil pressure light wasn't lit and the engine has done 800 miles without seizing up so the engine must be getting oil round it. However the filter is dry, bone dry. That means the oil must be somehow bypassing the filter, your idea about blowing air into the filter ports on the block is a good one - one port should blow air back into the pump and the other should blow into the various bearings or into oilway to the head.
I wonder if an oil way has been incorrectly drilled when the block was originally machined?
FRAM is one of those names that has got diluted, there a filter that was commonly used in high performance beetle engines(converted to remote filter) a FRAM HP1 and from what I remember it was the best filter for the job because the flow was full pressure and with cold oil normal filter could blow. Crossland is another, the name has been bought by Euro Car Parts.
Even if the oil was fresh on a new build I would still guess the filter would be dirtier than that, all very strange
Even if the oil was fresh on a new build I would still guess the filter would be dirtier than that, all very strange
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
It's true they can fail but the absolute proof oil was getting through is the fact the big ends were not knocking, they are always a sure sign of no pressure
- Messages
- 23,311
- Location
- Birmingham
Back in the days when I used to tinker with cars, I used to fit competition oil pressure switches which switched much higher so you had more chance of saving the motor if it came on.
