I'd use whatever scrap sheet steel / plate I had available. Mild steel would be good. Thin enough so it could bend ( if needed) as it was being screwed down to the casting. Don't overthink it. It will be fine!
- Thread starter TheJay
- Start date
I have 1.5mm mild steel and it's pretty rigid but can be bent reasonably easily if necessary. Then my concern would be whether it's thick enough for a mechanical fix (countersunk machine screws). That will dictate what size screws are used.
500e
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You are overtaking the job some 20guage sheet or a bit of old car 4 small countersunk 5mm nuts and bolts fill and flat with body filler
Paint, screw on SW it is not a structural part, pressing the button will not break it.
Cheap job, and if the casting breaks follow @addjunkie post #19
Paint, screw on SW it is not a structural part, pressing the button will not break it.
Cheap job, and if the casting breaks follow @addjunkie post #19
How much does that starter cost? Looks like it has a NVR and over current protection. Probably not cheap? You won't get your money back when you sell the drill.
Most cheap drills like the Draper will use a very basic NVR, the type you can buy from AliExpress for about a fiver. You may even be able to fit it into the repair plate you mount on the side. That's how they are most often fitted. Just make sure any internally routed wires are kept clear of moving parts.
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I'm not sure you can call this a cheap Chinese machine. It's very heavy and the information on the front would suggest it was made in the UK, this is a Draper floor standing drill press from 1981.
The closest machine available from Draper now would be this:
It's sold in Toolstation for around £700 and to me is much more like what you are referring to in terms of build quality.
The closest machine available from Draper now would be this:
It's sold in Toolstation for around £700 and to me is much more like what you are referring to in terms of build quality.
It's all relative, probably is a taiwan casting as it's from the 80's , might have been assembled in the UK, that casting is generic to lots of the drill press's.
Handy with the 3" quill on them ones.
An fairly clean equivalent axminster version is going for about £200 on ebay at the moment 3/4hp motor , newer manufacture date as it's got the popular style of cheep stop switches on it.
Stu
I think the casting may be from Taiwan, that's true. The point I am making is it's quite dismissive to say it's cheap Chinese junk and to throw it away, this is a project for me and I'm not planning to sell it afterwards. I just want to make it the best it can be.
So I was thinking, would a few countersunk holes with pop rivets inserted and covered over be just as effective, even more concealed and even easier to use than nuts and bolts for securing a sheet of mild steel to the inside of the casting? Would a pop rivet in each corner and then one centrally be enough?
Windy Miller
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Yep - that's fine. Get it done and start using it!
If it were some seriously old, ancient thing that you were doing a full restore on, then maybe you'd need to be a little more sympathetic/creative with it, but it's a working machine that has minimal resale value, so do what needs to be done and make it earn its keep!
If it lasts you a few years, then you did a good job!
Pop rivets will be fine if that's what you've got. But no need to countersink/counterbore them. Thin sheet steel wont allow that anyway.
How do I remove this metal plate and the metal plate seen to the right of this image (behind the drill bit) without damaging the cast/plate and what are these fixtures called for me to get replacements for after I have finished painting?
What lubricant/oil should be used on the moving parts like bearings and the up and down mechanism of the drill?
What lubricant/oil should be used on the moving parts like bearings and the up and down mechanism of the drill?
premmington
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Holes in beds.
Tig brazing or MMA Lincoln repticast rods.
Tig brazing or MMA Lincoln repticast rods.
I wouldn't bother if its just to paint the drill. Put masking tape over the metal name plates, mask off the shaft, quill, etc & paint around them.
Don't bother, those are held on with rivet type things & you'll not get them out without damaging the plate!
As for patching the hole, I've done a similar repair before & used a bit of 2mm stainless sheet attached with M5 pan head s/s screws screwed into holes tapped into the drill body. Then I attached the switch to the s/s sheet using M5 screws.
You can paint the s/s sheet but it looks really nice polished up against the blue of the drill body.
Agroshield
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Erie Fred
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