Do those wheels have locking castors? Know its a bit of a lump but would stop it moving by vibration..
great job fellaNo locking castors but it's smooth when operating and sits steady on these wheels no problem
You can use these 6x4 saws as a vertical. They have a latch to lock them upright, and there was a table to add-on with I think the Clarke ones (but you rarely see a used one with the table).Then you will want to use the saw vertically. Yesterday I needed one, I had to bite my elbows and work a lot with an angle grinder. I'm looking at a used donor for conversion to a vertical saw.
Example
You can use these 6x4 saws as a vertical. They have a latch to lock them upright, and there was a table to add-on with I think the Clarke ones (but you rarely see a used one with the table).
I made a table (as have others) for mine using Unistrut as the base leg that clamps into the vice for ease of fitting & removal.
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I got it cutting 98% square yesterday. Double checking with an engineers square it is just a tiny bit off on the vertical axis. (Lift lower area)
Some of the you tube videos on this subject are incorrect. They talk about the vertical axis being set by the hinge and not adjustable. But the guide wheels are fully adjustable and it's really that which can put this off a little.
On checking mine tonight again I realised that placing a steel ruler on top of the bed and checking if both guide wheels touch it evenly showed they were off adjustment slightly. It's hard to measure the blade with a square so this is how I think that axis needs fine tuned.
Possibly having to remove the blade and tap it perfect square on the roller wheels pair VS table deck. It will take some back and forth tries and test cuts but over an evening or two this week I will keep after it until its cutting perfectly square all around. One thing is for sure whoever set my saw up before I started adjusting it did a terrible job it was all over the place maybe lucky me and they didn't use it much and decided to sell on as a result!
A search at the local flea market only turns up a similar Chinese band saw for 300 euros, without legs. And it's been on sale for ages. Today I'm going to think about cutting out the excess metal in the cabinet to upgrade the large bandsaw I already have.You can use these 6x4 saws as a vertical. They have a latch to lock them upright, and there was a table to add-on with I think the Clarke ones (but you rarely see a used one with the table).
I made a table (as have others) for mine using Unistrut as the base leg that clamps into the vice for ease of fitting & removal.
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it wont stay that way believe me...parameters change on these saws as the blade wears and goes out of shape. I have had 2 of em and in the end just used mine to cut weldable stock which never mattered once jigged up, as opposed to trying to chase engineering tolerances.OK so I did some test cuts and adjustment tonight. First step was to take the rollers back out of the machine, centre the side rollers on the centre rollers and reset both rests back at zero effectively. (Whoever originally assembled this saw was either blind or drunk, or both)
At that I then used my digital angle gauge, zerod it on the table and set the wheels so they were perfectly level with the bed as a starting point.
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It was still cutting off square unfortunately. Perfect square on top but cutting downwards it was off.
You tubers tell you that this is determined by the saw body hinge and you cannot adjust it.
This is WRONG and here is proof.
With it at zero then I set the wheels to 0.9degrees away from the table. My thought was that the blade is being pulled away from the drive wheels so may need to twist away from them to counteract that effect.
And to prove this adjustment was having a real impact on the angle of cut I could mark the top of the slice and measure top and bottom of the off cut. If the thickness changes then you CAN adjust the cut on this plane. It werked:
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As it happens this was a very fortunate guess as now the saw is cutting dead nuts perfect square on a new engineering square
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Just one very tiny adjustment left tomorrow night and the saw will be cutting perfectly square in both planes. New spare blade ordered to hang on wall.
All that's left is an oil change again and lick of paint.
I don't see that as any reason not to shoot for 100% accuracy nowit wont stay that way believe me...parameters change on these saws as the blade wears and goes out of shape. I have had 2 of em and in the end just used mine to cut weldable stock which never mattered once jigged up, as opposed to trying to chase engineering tolerances.
Not at all mate,i was the same with mine and i spent hours fettling it...in the end i settled for a saw that never kept spitting its blade with a reasonable decent cut. Horses for courses, just look at the low price of them, great little saws all the same.I don't see that as any reason not to shoot for 100% accuracy now
Time will tell if it stays that way or not. For all I will be cutting with it I think it will be just fine for years to come.
If it's set square now and I don't adjust anything the only real variable must be blade wear surely? In which case if I notice any difference in cut speed or quality I'll have a spare blade from the same supplier on hand and swap it out.Not at all mate,i was the same with mine and i spent hours fettling it...in the end i settled for a saw that never kept spitting its blade with a reasonable decent cut. Horses for courses, just look at the low price of them, great little saws all the same.