Just hire a decent sds drill such as a Hilti, we have one at work and it eats anything which regular sds drills struggle on
+1 for Hilti, a friend of mine has one and it's awesome, really impressive drills, price to match though.
Just hire a decent sds drill such as a Hilti, we have one at work and it eats anything which regular sds drills struggle on
+1 for Hilti, a friend of mine has one and it's awesome, really impressive drills, price to match though.
Any reasonable sds will do the job.
If it's hard Chuck a 10mm through first then follow it up with a 20.
I'm assuming @bigegg was referring to knackering percussion drills? (Cordless drills with a hammer setting) rather than a proper hammer drill.
Bomb proof drills.yep.
although, truth be told, my milwaukee m18cpd cordless with a *good* masonry bit drills 10mm rawlplug holes easily.
wouldnt want to risk it on a 20mm hole, though.
Bomb proof drills.
Took years of abuse to kill mine.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-gbh-2000-2-3kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-240v/87453
Bomb proof drills.
Took years of abuse to kill mine.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-gbh-2000-2-3kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-240v/87453
They are solid drills, used mine to put an 18mm hole through a double skin masonry wall. Did look a little silly having a 2 foot long 18mm bit in the cordless thoughyep.
although, truth be told, my milwaukee m18cpd cordless with a *good* masonry bit drills 10mm rawlplug holes easily.
wouldnt want to risk it on a 20mm hole, though.
I reckon it's more about the bit than the drill, I borrowed a 3.4kg Hilti when plumbed my compressor in, took forever with a blunt as old boots 25mm bit.yep.
although, truth be told, my milwaukee m18cpd cordless with a *good* masonry bit drills 10mm rawlplug holes easily.
wouldnt want to risk it on a 20mm hole, though.
maybe I"m missing the point here, they've done a poor job, so why not get them back to sort it correctly. You've paid them for the job, they've not done it to correct standards which you have discovered later, are they then not liable to rectify the error?
don't see why it's down to you to rectify this, when you've used professionals...
edit - then when they've sorted it correctly use that to power the garage...
I don't know the regs in the uk anymore, last one I did was the 13th edition IEEE so probably fair to say I'm well off the pace these days.. to me it's not right way, and certainly seems wrong for the reasons given above, but is that "official enough" I don't know. Surely one of our professionals on here could confirm if it's acceptable or not to the standards, citing the relevent reference to the regs? presumably if it was inspected officially they could give a report..
went to connect a new cooker hob up last week replace the old one and some nerd electrician wired it in 10mm when 6 would be well adequate .he had shaved the cores down to 4.0mm to get it connected the punter whose house it is was going to connect it himself and thought better of it I just stuck a jointbox on the end of the 10mm and reduced it to 6 mm and no botherWhen you take them out check if they’ve given the copper a haircut to fit them in.
went to connect a new cooker hob up last week replace the old one and some nerd electrician wired it in 10mm when 6 would be well adequate .he had shaved the cores down to 4.0mm to get it connected the punter whose house it is was going to connect it himself and thought better of it I just stuck a jointbox on the end of the 10mm and reduced it to 6 mm and no bother
luxury last month replaced a hob that had 1.0mm flex a meter long and a burnt out conector plate don't think they must have used all 4 at the same time because it was like that for a few years I see that many balls ups 2 many to listgotta be better than the opposite - wiring a cooker with 2.5mm t+e - which i have seen on a job.