- Thread starter HSGB
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I will try a pin spanner on them to see if they are threaded. I have to get one that will fit though. You can clearly see all the build up of the black carbon on the valve on the bottom left. They are not seating because of it which is drawing air back after the compression stroke. I was going to try and clean it all off, but will have to get access to them. If they are too stubborn, I shall have to leave it because of the risk of damaging them, as there are no spares available for this pump nowadays. I will have to see if I can clean some of it off through the holes and flush it out.
A good soak in acetone might loosen the deposits.
Get some steel barrel the same diameter as the outer edge of the slots, and make a tool having 4 "L"-shaped prongs, to either try and turn the circular caps off (though I can't see any thread starts anywhere), or try to pull them off.
Get some steel barrel the same diameter as the outer edge of the slots, and make a tool having 4 "L"-shaped prongs, to either try and turn the circular caps off (though I can't see any thread starts anywhere), or try to pull them off.
Seadog
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If you can find any, methyline chloride (dichloromethane) will soften the baked on carbon if you soak the head overnight.
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OJCar
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Oven Pride removes carbon.
(Blooming needs to with Herself's cooking)
There is a handy kit you can get from supermarkets (or the kitchen cupboard) with a big sealable bag, disposable gloves and the gloop.
Put item in bag, apply the gloop, leave till next day, wash off in water.
brightspark
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my big old comp had simlar.. just flat round disks with springs behind that sealed on the rim of the part with the 4 holes. oven cleaner will remove the carbon deposit
I am trying to do this piecemeal but, yesterday I taped up the valve sides and filled the holes with Jizer, left it for twenty minutes. Anyway, it cleared out loads of the black tar stuff, it wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be. Yes they are round discs with a compression spring behind them. not reeds; They are still not sealing though and stopping the air going the wrong way. I do not know how to get them out, but what's the point of putting it back tohether with leaking valves? The whole reason for taking it apart was because the pressure build up was rubbish and taking ages.
It is a Tecalemit, Type: 212. Yes, it is two-stage, The large piston is 4 1/4" diameter, the second piston is 2 1/8" diameter. The stroke is 3 1/2". The cylinders look in good nick, no lip at the top of the stroke either. The pistons are STD.
It is a Tecalemit, Type: 212. Yes, it is two-stage, The large piston is 4 1/4" diameter, the second piston is 2 1/8" diameter. The stroke is 3 1/2". The cylinders look in good nick, no lip at the top of the stroke either. The pistons are STD.
Seadog
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I think they have to be a drive fit. The 4-hooked sleeve with a draw bolt might well do the trick. Heating the lot to a couple of hundred degrees then chilling the valves with ice or a freezer spray may get them on the move.
I don't want to heat anything as I would be worried of warping of the valve plate or taking the temper out of the springs. Those little slots are only 5mm and there seems to be nothing the get a hook/ grip on. I had another ten minute cleaning exercise today and the black stuff is still spewing out. I do think they are gradually starting to seat nicer though
brightspark
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put some oven cleaner in and flush it out if it still leaks the disks probably worn where it seals on the rim
Seadog
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To carbonize the oil the head has been getting to 250 degrees, so any damage will already have done.
Well, as mentioned, it isn't hard carbon, it's like thick tar. When the plate was heating up whilst running it was clamped between the block and the head by eight 5/16" Whitworth bolts. The impact localised het would have on it whilst not being sandwiched I'm not risking. I also don't want to heat up the springs. I have bought a decen Facomt pin spanner so, I will see if I can turn them when it arrives.
OJCar
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I would keep on soaking and cleaning with solvent, it has had 70 years to build up the tarry stuff, so it will take a while to clean it all out.
If those valves are pressed in rather than threaded they are going to get distorted pulling them out and pressing them back in.
I can't see any thread starts in your photos, so I reckon they are pressed in.
If those valves are pressed in rather than threaded they are going to get distorted pulling them out and pressing them back in.
I can't see any thread starts in your photos, so I reckon they are pressed in.
500e
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Keep doing what @Seadog and @brightspark say and let it soak
Heating the head will give the pin spanner a better chance with a blast from a pipe freezer kit on the valve disc, but you could distort the to edge of the slot.
The goo / solvent would be my preferred method
Heating the head will give the pin spanner a better chance with a blast from a pipe freezer kit on the valve disc, but you could distort the to edge of the slot.
The goo / solvent would be my preferred method
