DIY paint sequence

[Micromoose]

Yes, after joining this group I realised it was a rebrand job. It was fine for underneath but with my skills I need all the help I can get to get a good finish......

 

[keithski122]

I used a cheap epoxy with a cheap high build on my scooter, wet sanded (because I'm old school) followed by cheap basecoat and a cheap 2k clear.Three years on and it hasn't micro blistered yet, I must have been lucky!

 

[norsa]

Us old skoolers wet flatted everything as open coat paper wasn't available and we didn't have issues, but dry flatting is definitely the new shool. Cleaner as well without all the slurry to deal with.
Nick

 

[Micromoose]

A quick thanks for the advice received on the forum. I stripped the tailgate to bare metal using clean and strip disks, then applied 3 coats of Lechler 29107. I'm really pleased with the results and feel confident to tackle the rest of the shell now. Thanks

 

[Chris@rust]

Rustbuster is rebranded Jotun from what I can gather, great for suspension and underside etc but less ideal for cosmetic areas. It is also more expensive than Jotun.

No it's not.

 

[marlinspike]

Rustbuster have clarified that their product is home grown. From their website site:

That's not to say it isn't a very similar product of course but it's not just Jotun relabelled.

 

[bricol]

View attachment 491022A quick thanks for the advice received on the forum. I stripped the tailgate to bare metal using clean and strip disks, then applied 3 coats of Lechler 29107. I'm really pleased with the results and feel confident to tackle the rest of the shell now. Thanks

How did I miss this thread?

Hopefully an evo 1 or 2, and not a up-spoilered 8 or 16V ? I would have pulled the Lancia badge mounting plugs out though.

I used Rustbusters stuff under my evo1 20 yrs ago - where it was blasted it stuck like . . . well, stuck well enough to need blasting off. So I hope you had enough surface prep to give it a good key.

My painter complained Jotun stuff was hard to sand around the windscreen aperture - he got there in the end though.

 

[Micromoose]

Yeah, evo 1, I did remove the badge plugs in the end. I didn't originally in case they got damaged on removal. Think it looks clean without the rear wiper hole.

The underside was epoxy'd then coated in Gravitex. I'm on the topside primer now, just wondering whether to paint with doors on or off.

 

[julianf]

I use a lot of the lechler epoxy on new aluminium. I sand this only to take out surface junk etc before top coat. I normally sand it sooner than you would otherwise do so, as I want to keep in the time window, so as not to have to necessarily key everything perfectly again.

At this point it will sand, but you wouldnt want to do loads as it balls on the paper given half a chance.

This is using lechler 2k on top of lechler primer. So compatible products, and, hence me not wanting to get outside of the "wet on wet" window.

If you let it harden properly, it will sand in a more dusty way.

But...

I find that if a refinishing job is difficult, the amount of work/pressure needed to flat epoxy ends up following the substrate too much. Ie I end up following the job, rather than cutting the primer.

The green ti by lechler sands way easier in comparison, and, whilst I never use it for painting new alloy, on jobs where I've had to beat dents and fill etc it makes life so much simpler than trying to use epoxy alone.

 

[Micromoose]

"The green ti by lechler sands way easier in comparison"

That's really interesting as I've been advised that adding some hi-build primer into the equation could be bad news as it can trap moisture (I'm working in a home garage that isn't fully sealed or heated). The method I'm currently following is to lay 2 decent coats of 29107, let them cure fully, apply some local filler then sand it back, key the whole thing and repeat. This way, I'm aiming to get 6 (3 x 2 wet on wet applications) good coats of primer on before I guide coat and flat.

 

[tigdlo]

"The green ti by lechler sands way easier in comparison"

That's really interesting as I've been advised that adding some hi-build primer into the equation could be bad news as it can trap moisture (I'm working in a home garage that isn't fully sealed or heated). The method I'm currently following is to lay 2 decent coats of 29107, let them cure fully, apply some local filler then sand it back, key the whole thing and repeat. This way, I'm aiming to get 6 (3 x 2 wet on wet applications) good coats of primer on before I guide coat and flat.

Lechler do another epoxy primer with a higher build and easier sanding but without the anti-corrosion powder and zinc phosphate. Links to the datasheets below.

https://portal.lechler.eu/DesktopMo...oad.aspx?EntryId=136097&Command=Core_Download
https://portal.lechler.eu/DesktopMo...oad.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=136093

I was thinking about using the high build on a future project, 29107 to seal and prime then 29102 to give a high build in contrasting colours so I don't sand through the anti-corrosion coat.

 

[Micromoose]

That's interesting, thanks for the link. If I struggle to flat the 29107, I'll take a look into the 29102.
Cheers

 

[ajlelectronics]

"The green ti by lechler sands way easier in comparison"

That's really interesting as I've been advised that adding some hi-build primer into the equation could be bad news as it can trap moisture (I'm working in a home garage that isn't fully sealed or heated). The method I'm currently following is to lay 2 decent coats of 29107, let them cure fully, apply some local filler then sand it back, key the whole thing and repeat. This way, I'm aiming to get 6 (3 x 2 wet on wet applications) good coats of primer on before I guide coat and flat.

That's the best method by far.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I was thinking about using the high build on a future project, 29107 to seal and prime then 29102 to give a high build in contrasting colours so I don't sand through the anti-corrosion coat.

I tint the 29107 for the same reason. Paint supplier provided me with small quantities of tint.

 

[ajlelectronics]

That's interesting, thanks for the link. If I struggle to flat the 29107, I'll take a look into the 29102.
Cheers

Let it cure fully and it should not be a problem.

 

[julianf]

"The green ti by lechler sands way easier in comparison"

That's really interesting as I've been advised that adding some hi-build primer into the equation could be bad news as it can trap moisture (I'm working in a home garage that isn't fully sealed or heated). The method I'm currently following is to lay 2 decent coats of 29107, let them cure fully, apply some local filler then sand it back, key the whole thing and repeat. This way, I'm aiming to get 6 (3 x 2 wet on wet applications) good coats of primer on before I guide coat and flat.

Pretty much all fillers will trap moisture, irrespective of their type.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Pretty much all fillers will trap moisture, irrespective of their type.

Epoxy primers are waterproof, hence the advice. You could epoxy prime a bodyshell, leave it out in the rain for twelve months before cleaning and flatting and the final paintjob would still be perfect.

 

[julianf]

Epoxy primers are waterproof, hence the advice. You could epoxy prime a bodyshell, leave it out in the rain for twelve months before cleaning and flatting and the final paintjob would still be perfect.

I know.

The comment that I was replying to, specifically, talked about filler use.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I know.

The comment that I was replying to, specifically, talked about filler use.

Apologies, I will go and stand in the corner.