Daft VFD questions

  1. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
    I’m bumbling my way through connecting up a VFD.

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    Question 1: There is no option in the VFD programming instructions to set the motor type, mine is a 4 pole motor. I’ve searched about and there are instructions for the exact same model VFD showing this as program no. 25. My instructions skip this, 24...26. It feels like I shouldn’t ignore this, advice?

    Question 2: The potentiometer I have has terminals marked Z1, 1, Z2.

    Is this right? (my pencil markings):

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    Thanks in advance for any advice making up for my ineptitude.
     
  2. m_c Member

    Messages:
    571
    Location:
    East Lothian
    If that's the model of VFD I think it is, it's one with very basic settings.
    Does it let you set the maximum motor current?

    The number of poles makes no difference to the VFD or motor operation. The only thing it affects is the displayed speed on the VFD.

    You'd be better to check the potentiometer with a multimeter.
    Generally if it's got three pins in a row, the outer two are the power connections, and the centre pin the wiper connection.
     
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  3. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Thanks, it’s an XSY-AT1. I don’t know if the settings are basic, but it’s enough for me at the moment:

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    I can’t see a setting for maximum motor current.

    I’ll have a go at working out the potentiometer with a multimeter later on.
     
  4. daleyd

    daleyd Member

    Messages:
    7,101
    Location:
    Wrexham, North Wales
    Main current overload p78?
     
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  5. Mikes Member

    Messages:
    301
    Location:
    Hutton, Essex
    The maximum current of the vfd is 12 Amp according to your first photo and the motor Amps is only 3.10 worst case so more than adequate. VFD is too large for motor but hopefully doesn't have a minimum range unlike convertors which generally don't like running below their stated minimum.
    Are you trying to connect an external pot rather than use the inbuilt one or keys? If so, try getting it to work with the inbuilt ones first to prove it and then add the external pot.
     
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  6. daleyd

    daleyd Member

    Messages:
    7,101
    Location:
    Wrexham, North Wales
    Most have a motor current setting you can program in, adjustable up to the max rating of the vfd.

    It's as a protection to allow you to use smaller motors if you want - when the the current goes above the set value it will start to drop the volts/freq to limit the current. Quite often when commissioning big fan motors on industrial dryers they would run at 40 odd hz until the air warmed up as the current limit would prevent them going faster, then they would run at 50 once the air was hot (less dense).

    It'll do no harm to the vfd leaving it set to a higher value but it's better for the motor if you can set it correctly to prevent damage to the motor in the case it starts to draw more current than it can handle.
     
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  7. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Thanks, it’s just interpreting what’s what I’m struggling with! Looks like I’m not going to toast anything with the default setting at the moment?

    Yes, it all works fine with the controls on the VFD panel.
     
  8. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
  9. daleyd

    daleyd Member

    Messages:
    7,101
    Location:
    Wrexham, North Wales
    Yeah, I don’t know if it gives any more description for the parameters, or what the other current limits are but I would have assumed that p78 is the main current limit.
     
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  10. daleyd

    daleyd Member

    Messages:
    7,101
    Location:
    Wrexham, North Wales
    For the pot connect z1 and z2 to the outside 2 terminals and the arrow to centre. If it works back to front then swap z1 and z2
     
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  11. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Hmm, my pot has slightly different markings

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    So it will be

    COM = Z1
    VL1/CI = 1 / ->
    10v/5v = Z2

    Thanks
     
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  12. daleyd

    daleyd Member

    Messages:
    7,101
    Location:
    Wrexham, North Wales
    Yeah - the arrow denotes the “wiper” part of the pot, the variable part. The others are the ends of the resistance, if you measure with a multimeter on resistance setting between z1 and z2 you should get the full resistance reading, measure between z1 and arrow it will vary when turning the pot, between z2 and arrow will also vary but in the opposite way.
     
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  13. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
    It works! Now to wire the forward reverse...

    Just trying to make up my mind if this is X6 or X5+X4

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  14. RichardM Member

    Have a look at this from about 14mins onwards.


    If you get it to jog (slow speed) in forward/reverse let me know as I am thinking of buying a 2.2kw version but may go for a HY as I am used to them!
     
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  15. Agroshield Member

    Messages:
    1,366
    Depends on how you want to control it and what switch or switches you have.

    A reversing switch (one switch, which is possibly a momentary one) will make it go in the opposite direction to which it is currently going.

    A forward and reverse control will make it go forward or reverse or neither, depending on which of the three or four possibilities is selected.

    Somewhere in the manual, it should give you a motion profile for each option (i.e. what happens when the input changes state).
     
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  16. m_c Member

    Messages:
    571
    Location:
    East Lothian
    That's maybe not the basic VFD I was thinking off, as I'm sure they only have fraction of those settings.

    P21 will let you program the VFD so the displayed speed is accurate. It's essentially the same as setting the poles, but it gives the benefit of letting you allow for things such as having a gearbox attached.

    P78 might be the current setting. I would however expect it to be set to the rated output of the inverter by default, not a lower value. To confirm, you could check the offload running current of the motor (should be able to see that as an option on the display), set P78 slightly higher, then run the motor, put some load on it, and see if it triggers an overcurrent fault.

    It'll depend on how you set the parameters.
    By the looks of it, by default X5 is reverse while connected to COM, X4 is forward while connected to COM. I'm guessing X6 to COM causes the motor to then run in reverse when you connect X4 to COM.

    Depending on what you're controlling with it, you may want to consider option 3, which I assume by keying operation, you just need a momentary push button to start the motor, and 2/4 to stop the motor (I've got no idea why it's two similar wordings...)
     
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  17. awemawson Forum Supporter

    The only daft question is the one that you don’t ask.
     
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  18. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Here’s the switchgear I have

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    The start button can be lit up with 24v, I took that part off as it piggybacks on the contactor and I didn’t think I’d be able to use it, but I think one of the control terminals can be set to 15v or 24vdc. (But, baby steps at the moment...)

    I think I’d want a NO contactor on the stop? But I might be able to swap one over from the start.

    Thanks for that, I’ll have to get it bolted onto the lathe before I can check the load, but that part is nearly ready to go.

    It’s all slowly making sense but some of you must wonder how I tie my own shoelaces without this forum (Velcro).
     
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  19. skotl

    skotl Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,371
    Location:
    Edinburgh, UK
    This all sounds tremendously exciting :D (I'm not joking - looking forward to putting a 3ph motor and a VFD on my lathe :clapping:)

    Can I ask where you got the switchgear box from?
     
  20. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Cheshire
    eBay, it’s an ESR junction box.
     
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