Cooker wiring WTF

[octo0072000]

that sounds like you need a call to who ever sold it to them
and a house rewire or at least a separate run from consumer unit to cooker
and he will need a big hanky to cry on when he gets the electric bill

 

[mike os]

3 ph I think. BUT how do you have a 3ph cooker it can only be 415 2ph unless the phases are split somehow.

Iirc they are 3 phase plus neutral. . Ie 3 circuits at 230v balanced over 3 phases

 

[dannyp]

commercial oven really wants to be 3phase as they are realy simpel inside.

to keep it simpel say it's a big 9kw oven it'll just have 3 x 3kw heaters in it with a contactor that turns them on off. thats much cheeper to run on 3 phase than bunging the whole 9kw on one phase.

most things are avalibe 3 phase espectaly heating and power hungry things. just 3 heating eliments in the can instead of just the one

 

[sparkysy]

3phase and two phase is common on bigger cooking appliances now I have done a few over the last year, most of the ones I have done except one had terminal links in the connection plate for altering the wiring connections for whatever you wanted to feed it with. One a German cooker had two black phase conductors and blue neg + earth in a 2.5 flexible cable that was 9kw iirc!

 

[carbon]

Would the hob part of this cooker be an induction one. As the one I had fitted a couple of years ago is supposed to be low current consumption unit.
Even though it has four burners, once you have more than two on it pulses each burner. So if all four are on I assume there all not on at the same time therefore reducing the load. The effects of the pulsing can be seen and heard but doesn't seem to effect cooking times

 

[mike os]

mine has electronic load balancing as above, hob and ovens cant draw more than 32a even when all on full...... just as well as it has a potential 12kw+ total load

 

[normspanners]

Thanks for the ideas,

This cooker is definitely NOT three phase BUT

Ie 3 circuits at 230v balanced over 3 phases

But then all 3 phases would be returning through the one 1.5mm cable neutral, so that cannot be right either .

One a German cooker had two black phase conductors and blue neg + earth in a 2.5 flexible cable that was 9kw iirc!

I understand that system, the two phase would be across 415v elements effectively reducing current by half, 1 ph + the neg would just be for lighting, fans and timers etc.

Would the hob part of this cooker be an induction one.

NO

mine has electronic load balancing as above, hob and ovens cant draw more than 32a even when all on full.

No the hob is normal heating element seems when switched on they are on permanently, not pulsed, it does say in spec min 32A fuse.
so how can you run 32A 220V through 2.5 ??

 

[sparkysy]

Most important who is at fault when it all goes wrong! To answer your question you can't really as the cable would melt again before the protective device trips!

 

[normspanners]

To answer your question you can't really as the cable would melt again before the protective device trips!

Well it will have to stay on a 13a plug top, at least the worst that can happen is the plug will get hot, and then the 13A fuse will blow, but not a biggey to fix.
not like a burnt down house!! and all the s**t to go with it.

 

[the snooper]

is that data referring to that specific cable ie 5 strands of 1.5 per conductor or 3 of 2.5 per conductor both add up to 7.5

 

[sparkysy]

is that data referring to that specific cable ie 5 strands of 1.5 per conductor or 3 of 2.5 per conductor both add up to 7.5

I did wonder that myself if we could see the connection plate on the cooker it may become clearer as it may be oriented to take either or! Don't suppose you saw any links in there norm?

 

[normspanners]

No links just three LARGE terminals that could take 10mm cable!! with 8mm hex headed screws , one live, one neutral and earth. Connection map on rear shows just one main cable through strain relief with three inner's .

 

[dannyp]

Thanks for the ideas,

This cooker is definitely NOT three phase BUT


But then all 3 phases would be returning through the one 1.5mm cable neutral, so that cannot be right either .

NO

when you have a balanced load on 3 phase the neutral dosent do anything, quite often on loads that are inherantly blanaced there isn't a neutral connection as it's just not required. when it is present it should only ever realy carry a balanceing curret and you try set things up so that dosent happen as it makes things expensive

 

[normspanners]

Iirc they are 3 phase plus neutral. . Ie 3 circuits at 230v balanced over 3 phases

I was answering mikes post, that if they WERE 3phases 230v then they all WOULD HAVE to return through the one neutral.
and that neutral according to the spec is 1.5mm

 

[sparkysy]

No links just three LARGE terminals that could take 10mm cable!! with 8mm hex headed screws , one live, one neutral and earth. Connection map on rear shows just one main cable through strain relief with three inner's .

Then it must be just the wrong instruction plate for that cooker! That is not good as how many people would have also connected it with undersize cable!

 

[normspanners]

Then it must be just the wrong instruction plate for that cooker!

The plate on the cooker doesnt say cable size, it is in the manual as per above.

Just found this,http://www.appliance-reviews.co.uk/p/Beko-BDC643W-Electric-Cookers-in-White-23696/specification#tabs

I copied and pasted but this has not copied correctly.

Beko BDC643W specificationDimensions (mm)600 x 900 x 600Number Of Ovens1Number of Cavities2Second Cavity SizeMedium (35 to 64 litres)Requires 13 Amp Power SupplyNoMain Cavity SizeLarge (65 litres and above)Energy RatingA RatedNumber of Burners / Zones4Manufacturer Warranty1 Year(s)Pan Support TypeNoneRequires Electrically Trained Engineer To HardwireYes - May Not Be Supplied With CableSecond Cavity TypeElectric GrillControl TypeKnobsEnergy Consumption (Main Cavity)0.79 KwhMain Cavity TypeElectric Fan OvenSecond Cavity Capacity35 LitresTimerNoNumber of Burner / Zone Sizes2Energy Consumption (Second Cavity)0.79 KwhMain Cavity Capacity65 LitresMain Cavity PositionBottomSecond Cavity PositionTopBurner Power Range1.2 to 1.7 KWElectrical Connection10 KWFuse Rating32 ampsDisplay TypeNoneCleaning Method (Second Cavity)Enamel InteriorResidual Heat IndicatorNoWok BurnerNoMinimum Distance To Cooker Hood65 cmDoor TypeGlassFuel TypeElectricHeating TypeCeramicPan DetectionNoGrill Pan/Tray IncludedYesDoor Hinge Position (Main Cavity)LeftDoor Hinge Position (Second Cavity)BottomInterior Light (Second Cavity)NoRemovable Inner Door GlassYesInterior Light (Main Cavity)YesAutomatic Safety Shut OffNoHob Surface MaterialGlassNumber Of Functions (Second Cavity)1Number Of Functions (Main Cavity)1Control Panel LockNoNumber Of Shelves (Second Cavity)1Number Of Shelves (Main Cavity)2Glass LidNoOpen/Closed Door Grilling (Second Cavity)OpenDefrost Feature (Second Cavity)NoDefrost Feature (Main Cavity)NoGrill Type (Second Cavity)Electric GrillGrill Type (Main Cavity)NoneFan Assisted (Second Cavity)NoFan Assisted (Main Cavity)YesTop and Bottom Element (Second Cavity)NoTop and Bottom Element (Main Cavity)NoTop Element Only (Second Cavity)NoTop Element Only (Main Cavity)NoBottom Element Only (Main Cavity)NoBottom Element Only (Second Cavity)NoIgnitionPlugOven TypeElectricAdjustable ShelvesYesHob TypeElectric Ceramic


Could you have a look at the pdf and tell me if I am going mad
http://downloads.beko.co.uk/bekoupload/manuals/BDC643.pdf
page 11-12

 

[sparkysy]

No Norm your not going mad on the linky page 4 has the cable sizes as you posted before 11-12 don't mention conductor size but says. It should have a conductor size big enough to prevent overheating. And that you should refer to the table page 4 for details!

 

[mike os]

2.5mm h05vv flex at the given spec rates at 25a ... so ok with diversity? Personally I would want 4 or 6mm flex and 10mm to the outlet

 

[ford34/2]

Certanly looks up in the 9/10Kw range, fed with a suitable cable and protected by 32 Amp fuse, and a trailing link cable not exceeding 2 metres. Now thats gonna spin the meter round. Cant imagine running the cooker, the Elec shower and popping into the garage to do a bit welding.
Not a lot of help sorry -- the price of being a joiner and not a sparky.

Stan

 

[normspanners]

Cheers everyone,
Sorry I dont understand this diversity theory as when you start cooking you could put all the hob and oven on to warm up ie all on together the oven will be on for 10mins solid and if cold pans of water the same so you could have all 9.9 being pulled for at least 10mins before any stats start cutting in correct me if I am wrong but just the 4rings plus cooker is 8kw which is 36A through a 2.5 mm !! what volt drop are you getting? Seems crazy to me

(the terminals on the cooker might not accept anything much bigger than 2.5mm2 flex)

the cooker terminals as stated ^^^^can accept 10mm i would say, and they have hex heads for sockets etc---- not screw heads -------they are serious terminals.