Its worth keeping saws clean. I always take the casings off and blow out all the crap, a lot of overheating issues are down to dust build up in and around the flywheel/barrel/carb. Bars get deburred, cleaned oil ways blown out, chains get inspected when sharpened then dipped in engine oil. Always thought it gives the chain/bar a head start on the lube front while the chain gook wakes up and takes over.
Nope ... left hand thread iirc ...
Coil of cord in spark plug hole or an impact driver will shift it
Be careful using nut guns for clutch removals on chainsaws, on some the flywheel keyway the other side of the crank can be very shallow, seen more than one shocked to the point it has moved the timing enough for it not to start. Soft ali flywheels and steel keys, the flywheel is still tight but the timing goes way out.
Now you tell meThen look to buy an echo cs2511t down the line. Very rare that I need an 020 out.
Saab 900 16v Turbo S, I had a 1984 car, it was brilliant, would have one again in a minute.
I think I will leave sprocket alone for now. Is a piston stop something I can buy from dealer? I do not want to damage it!
Now you tell me
The cordless will do well for that stuff *if* I can get a 1/4" sprocket to fit it.
For now I will just get a shorter 10" chain, its very quick and easy to swap bar and chain on a job if I needed the extra length for blocking down.
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First proper use of the 020t.. removed the limb I was standing on.