Thanks guys for the help, so the synthetic is out of the game then, and I won't try to roll clear coat
For the van I think, I will simply use celly to give me some paint practice as it is quiet big I will be sure it will take some time for me to get it about right.
But I am wondering for the touch up of the wing, could I use some else than 2K primer for the primer? Than use a solvent basecoat after than 1K clear coat?
That paint is metallic as well which is not going to make it easier to a beginner I suppose.
Could I use High build primer for my motorbike as well ?
and then but on the 2K basecoat and finish off with some 1K clear ?
Would that recipe work too?
It seems that in my area I will have a problem to find some celly so I might have to order the paint and get deliver.
I am actually wondering, if I give the paint to a paint supplier could then not mix celly paint base on that code?
When I rang this other day I was told it is a basecoat code, and so I will need 2K.
But I am wondering why ? does I make sense?
the basecoat is not 2k only the lacquer which you can replace with 1k laquer
if the paint supplier has a stock of celly and also has the data sheet to mix that colour then he will be able to do it from the paint code, unless its metallic in which case its base and clear only
just something i recall to mind. some suppliers, especially those who dont specialise in paint, sell what us pro's know as a two pack COB system, as twin pack. this can confuse the novice even more and have had many a person say to me 'have you sprayed this in twin pack?' In fact Henry Ford latterly sold a twin pack touch up paint in the nail varnish type dispensers one was basecoat one was clear.
Superfly. Yes most modern basecoats are polyester and these will mix with standard thinner the same you would use to thin celly or 2k though its preferable to use a quality thinner specifically made for 2k and no it does not contain iso's. (standard thinner is what we would use as gun wash)
Most primers can be high build be it 1 or 2k but as mentioned, anything solvent based (1k) is not as stable as activated (2k) so will need more drying time if used thickly and can give issues further down the line. (sinking, solvent popping, ghosting etc)
Do not appologise for dummy questions, it is why forums like this were invented. It is a minefield of terms and components in auto paint and you are simply asking questions that those who have wasted paint were too affraid to ask! and have paid the price.
Nick
Thanks a million for your help lads. I progress a lot over the last few days.
I have been re-ready a book on painting which I have at home since I am back from work so I can grasp more understanding on the paint type and terms. I read it about 4 times in 2 years I am a bit thick sometimes.
I also thought that 1K solvent "high build primer" (cellulose high build primer ) was only suitable for cellulose paint but it is actually not only, if I understand you correctly and the datasheet I read.
So I could use a 1L solvent high build primer like P88 from UPOL, and a basecoat and flakes, and 1K clear coat, on my little wing problem and on my bike project.
I also always though that celly was existing in metalic, but if I fully understand it today, it does not.
It is a basecoat (which could be polyester or nitrocellulose base) and flakes. Is this right ?
I think I am seeing some light at this end of the tunnel. hopefully
I guess I thought before that metallic paint was sold already mixed, however I am not under the impression that the "flake" and the basecoat are mix at by the sprayer.
Also I am right to think you could that you could take a solid cellulose color and add "flake" in it and you are getting a metallic cellulose paint.
Or the metallic can only by achieve with polyester type paint (to avoid chimical reaction)?
base coat comes ready mixed with the metalic in it, however you can also buy metalflake which you add, which you wont use on a standard car but may use on a custom paint job
and no you cant just add metalic flakes to the celly paint to get metalic celly, straight metalic celly used to be sold but i havnt seen it about for years, it wasnt that good the metalflake seemed to build up in certain places and just wasnt even.
Hi there, people!
Why doesn't the metallic, or paint with flakes in it, constantly clog up the tiny hole in the end of the gun? Or do you just have to use a gun with a much bigger "hole setup', to do these types of finishes?
Also, if you run thinners through the gun to clean it out, (until it runs clear) does this mean you should not have to strip it down to clean it up? (Having spent part of this evening fixing a sewing machine, I'm not keen on taking things apart un-necessarily!)
Sorry for the extra questions, here!
CJ
the metalic flakes are very fine so no issues with blockage, as for cleaning the gun you can get away with running thinners through the gun as long as the paint has gone afterwards but eventually they all need a strip down for cleaning
Thanks, snooper.
So if I got a gun with a bigger opening for primer, say - and another (smaller opening) one for top coats, I could (for a time, at least) avoid having to change needles etc, and all the complex-sounding stuff that goes with it.
I've had a gun for about 18 months or more now, but avoided using it, just in case I wrecked it after one session. Taking a gun apart seems vaguely similar to taking carbs apart - something I only ever tried once, and spent most of my adult life steering well clear of delicate things with multiple parts and springs in them, since then!
I don't suppose I'll get as far as metallics, anyway!
All the Best,
CJ
Well, you've planted the seed, now! I'm going to get a budget gun off the 'bay, and take it apart, so I know what I'm doing (Mrs Joe bought me a "graco finex?", and she'll get stroppy if I break it the first time I pull it apart!), and I can finally say goodbye to the rattle cans!
Are they all the same inside?
Also, are there no springs involved in what you described above?
Thanks for your help.
CJ
there is one spring and that is at the rear of the needle at the paint flow adjustment and its nothing fiddley , there is no way you will break it taking it apart its very simple
The number of times I've swept up the pieces, with similar words echoing through my head! I'm like a gorilla - I'd be well suited to breaking rocks!
But you have been a great help!
Having just looked at it again, I can't bring myself myself do it right now! Especially now I know about the spring.
You've obviously not broken as many things as I have throughout the years, and being a bit of a dinosaur, I don't take to new things all that well.
But armed with my new-found confidence, I'll experiment secretly with a different one, and if I don't wreck it immediately, I'll have 2 guns. Also, if I do break it straight away, (more likely than you'd imagine!) nobody but me will ever know about it!
Off to look on e-bay, now, but thanks for the pointers!
All the Best,
CJ
Joe no need to be afraid of stripping a paint gun, they are very simple, you can buy a cheap cleaning kit which comprises of mostly brushes and picks.
For primer I use a cheap ebay £20 gun which does the job fine.