Hi guys,
I need to do a touch up on a wing not much really, but I m going to use celly.
I wonder if it will be no paint reaction ?
Also how to get the glossy effect ?
Cheers
Right I have a wing, on my car which has been sanded back to bare metal on one spot by a previous owner.
Not much really
So I am going to dress the wing back to start off, than light filler, then etch acid.
But then I am going to use celly to paint it. So I am wondering if it will be any paint reaction of some sort with waterbased (I know the car was paint in waterbased about 3 years ago)?
The color I need to get is metallic (I guess based on the code paint).
Am I right to thing for a metalic paint a lacquer is required? And it is not needed on a solid color?
you should be fine reaction wise. the paint you need is basecoat for the metalic, not celly then as you said lacquer over the top as for the etch acid that is only for bare metal and will serve no purpose over old paint or filler
Thanks guys for the advice.
Your are right steveo, I m ready I m going to do more ready for sure.
I ll start by some data sheet so I ll know what is what a bit more, it seems a vast world now.
So I did a bit more reading over the last few days. I will bring back my finds, don't hesitate to correct me.
1. Isocyante is in the hardener/activator so it is in the 2K primer and 2K clear coat.
2. If I was going to use waterbased or 2K paint for the basecoat, which kind of primer could I use if I can not use 2K primer?
Can I use cellulose primer or it won't work ?
what is the alternative is there one ?
I saw that Langy is rolling the 2K primer. I have to say I like the idea.
Do you need a airfeed mask then and what about your surrounding ? I guess there is no fumes than.
3. I saw that the 1K clear coat is existing, as it was mention early on. Is the finish as good?
Could actually roll the 2K clear coat? and flatting it after?
4. I have just seen that synthetic paint, is it any good ? is synthetic paint is enamel ?
I have on the plan for painting this year if I can :
- The little touch-up on the wing I put on the pics. I know that was using waterbased but I guess basecoat solved could be use as I will need to get a paint match.
- The tank and the fairing of my classic bike. I check the paint code with a paint supplier and he told me it is basecoat, so I guess it can be solvent or waterbased?
- I van a old trafic to paint as well, there is no paint left really so any white paint will do to me.
I am conscience that I will make mistake along the way, but that is the way to learn.
See its been years since i sprayed celly so cant really advise on this case. Langy was talking about under floor with the roller on bits that need protection more than looks. Im sure it can be done to give you a solid substrate to put your paint on but will take a lot of flatting (with block). There would not be a need for air fed (no vapour) but the fumes can give a very sore throat and eyes with too much un ventilated exposure.
As far as i remember, synthetic is enamel. Rather than thinning it with thinners,we used to heat it up a tad and spray it on hot to give a fairly good finish but its only good for tarting up pre scrap yard in my opinion.
Nick
forget synthetic its a one shot paint not good to do any blends or spot repairs if it gets damaged not really any good to machine polish. it was used a lot for commercials but i doubt its even popular for that now
sysnthetic is suitable for old vans and tractors etc , its not very user friendly as in you cant really polish it up or deal with runs etc , possibly look at rustoleum combi enamel if you want something cheap n cheerfull for a van
for the other repairs i would source solvent basecoat , and assuming you dont want to use the airfed mask etc , then something like the upol 1k clear , but its not as durable as 2k
i dont think i would even use it for that, if im gona paint a panel id rather use 2k no matter what not to mention the overspray gets everywhere and is horibbly sticky