Memmeddu
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So this thread is a sort diary and discussion where to find solutions and share with you the progresses of my new to me CEA stick welder restomod .
That's how it looks inside
I was expecting more from the transformer TBBH
Anyway it has lots (not so much but surely more than others ) space for upgrades inside.
It has a bulky 250mm cooling fan which will stay there , nothing wrong with it.
But I'd add a conveyor shroud around to increase its sucking capacity (it blows inside out)
Then dinse connector at the front of the machine instead of the original bolt connections which are honestly something I've always hated .
I'd like to rectify the output there's a lot of space for a rectifier and an heat sink maybe at the bottom .
My concerns are about where and if too put an inductor with two parallel capacitors to protect the rectifier from the inductor voltage spikes .
But that's relatively the easiest part .
The welder despite has been built from a serious manufacturer with good materials etc etc
Doesn't have and I believe it never had too a thermal protection on the windings or wherever else.
I can't find a switch big enough and I don't know what temperature is better .
I get rid of my other buzz boxes many moons ago so no way I can use their switches.
I also have intension to connect the switch a way I can rather use it with 415V or 230V without the need to open and change connection.
Or with the problem of switch it on 230V while connected to 415V .
Because how it comes from the factory it will easily blow up if the locking screw is missing as in my case
Just removed a copper connection link on the switch and now there's no risks at all
Any advice is well accepted remember that I need a transformer based welder to do things I can't with an inverter
That's how it looks inside
I was expecting more from the transformer TBBH
Anyway it has lots (not so much but surely more than others ) space for upgrades inside.
It has a bulky 250mm cooling fan which will stay there , nothing wrong with it.
But I'd add a conveyor shroud around to increase its sucking capacity (it blows inside out)
Then dinse connector at the front of the machine instead of the original bolt connections which are honestly something I've always hated .
I'd like to rectify the output there's a lot of space for a rectifier and an heat sink maybe at the bottom .
My concerns are about where and if too put an inductor with two parallel capacitors to protect the rectifier from the inductor voltage spikes .
But that's relatively the easiest part .
The welder despite has been built from a serious manufacturer with good materials etc etc
Doesn't have and I believe it never had too a thermal protection on the windings or wherever else.
I can't find a switch big enough and I don't know what temperature is better .
I get rid of my other buzz boxes many moons ago so no way I can use their switches.
I also have intension to connect the switch a way I can rather use it with 415V or 230V without the need to open and change connection.
Or with the problem of switch it on 230V while connected to 415V .
Because how it comes from the factory it will easily blow up if the locking screw is missing as in my case
Just removed a copper connection link on the switch and now there's no risks at all
Any advice is well accepted remember that I need a transformer based welder to do things I can't with an inverter