Capacitors for HIGGS motor.

[HSGB]

Go round all three, and if no go, try the other side.

Failing that, thread the bolts back in partially and give them a tap.

Guineafowl, I cannot hit it there as the casting is built up to act as the stop for the fan guard.

The only thing I can hit is the grease nipple and I'm not doing that. I have given up, anyway, I'm a broken man.. I washed the bearings out and regreased them. I have now started to reassemble it, The fan bearing has a slight rumble but will still outlive me. I just have to make two new cans for the condensers, tomorrow, as the old ones have rotted out.

 

[6ply]

Guineafowl, I cannot hit it there as the casting is built up to act as the stop for the fan guard.

View attachment 494097

The only thing I can hit is the grease nipple and I'm not doing that. I have given up, anyway, I'm a broken man.. I washed the bearings out and regreased them. I have now started to reassemble it, The fan bearing has a slight rumble but will still outlive me. I just have to make two new cans for the condensers, tomorrow, as the old ones have rotted out.

If there's "nothing" to hit I'd just use an angled centre punch or chisel to crack it open a tiny bit. Then I get something in the gap. Honestly, if you saw it done you'd realise how easy it is.

 

[Guineafowl]

I’d agree with that ^ don’t talk yourself out of the job. Sometimes just tapping obliquely on the bolt lugs will free it.

There’s also screwing in the bolts a bit and tapping them, as I said.

You’ve got this far, might as well open up, re-do the bearings properly and check the centrifugal switch. Remember to mark the bellends so you can put them back in the same orientation.

 

[Brad93]

Guineafowl, I cannot hit it there as the casting is built up to act as the stop for the fan guard.

View attachment 494097

The only thing I can hit is the grease nipple and I'm not doing that. I have given up, anyway, I'm a broken man.. I washed the bearings out and regreased them. I have now started to reassemble it, The fan bearing has a slight rumble but will still outlive me. I just have to make two new cans for the condensers, tomorrow, as the old ones have rotted out.

Where are you located? Anywhere near essex?

 

[HSGB]

Where are you located? Anywhere near essex?

Brad93, I'm up near John O'Groats. I was born in Penzance!

I managed to get the bell-end (is that what it's really called?) to eventually move by, rotating it. I was worried about doing that because I never knew if there were locating dowels on the bolt holes, as I would have sheared them off or, cracked the case.

This allowed me to bet some access to those bolt lugs. Anyway, it still won't come off the shaft, I don't know if it's something inside holding it or, the bearing is stuck on the rotor shaft.

 

[Brad93]

You'll need a puller for that one if it's that tight and probably some heat from a bullfinch or similar.

The puller needs to be of the type where you insert the legs into the race and pull on the bearing directly.

Hitting the end plate / end bell if it's that tight is just likely to break it

 

[HSGB]

Brad, I am convinced that there is a floating steel ring behind the bell-end case that the screws actually go into. So, when you try and use a puller, the puller bolts aren't actually screwing into the case they go into the steel ring inside the motor. This steel ring, I think, is to stop the bell-end case being withdrawn and leaving the bearing stuck on the rotor shaft. I'm not familiar with these old motors, but that's the impression I'm getting.

 

[6ply]

Try removing the other end.

In my experience, one end is tight on the shaft/bearing and the other end isn't. It's quite normal to slide one end + shaft out as a complete unit. They only need to be separated if the bearing needs attention.

 

[Brad93]

Try removing the other end.

In my experience, one end is tight on the shaft/bearing and the other end isn't. It's quite normal to slide one end + shaft out as a complete unit. They only need to be separated if the bearing needs attention.

That's exactly correct.

One end has to be floating to allow for expansion.

 

[HSGB]

It's all getting too heavy for me now. I thought I could just remove the fan, pull off the bell-end, tap out the old bearing, put the new one in (which has just arrived) and that would be that. It's all getting too involved. Even if I did get the other end out, with the rotor, I still can't get to the bearing I want to replace, as that's at the other end.

 

[HSGB]

If the bearing is stuck on the rotor shaft, what point is it taking the other end out? The bearing is still stuck on the shaft and will stop the rotor being pulled out anyway.

 

[Guineafowl]

If the bearing is stuck on the rotor shaft, what point is it taking the other end out? The bearing is still stuck on the shaft and will stop the rotor being pulled out anyway.

With the opposite bellend off, you can then pull the rotor and other bellend out as one, and see what’s what.

 

[HSGB]

You reckon the rotor, complete with bearing, can be pulled right down through the inside of the stator and out the other end?

 

[Turbo]

You reckon the rotor, complete with bearing, can be pulled right down through the inside of the stator and out the other end?

Never saw one that wouldn't.

 

[Turbo]

When I tried the puller it never pulled the end cap off, if just pushed the rotor shaft back through, hard up to the bearing at the other end.

Chances are that if you had kept going with the puller you would have pushed the fan side bell end off the casing. Which is what you want.

 

[HSGB]

Never saw one that wouldn't.

Well, for me, whose never taken a big motor apart, it's pretty daunting. Especially as I always have in the back of my mind, that one mistake, or breakage, then the motor is scrap. As there are no spares for it.

If I get it out then I still have to remove the old bearing. I wonder what room there is on the rotor shaft to pull it off with a puller. I have twenty ton press here to put it back on with. Can you use a pres on a rotor shaft? I will need to measure it's placement on the shaft as well.

 

[HSGB]

There are references here, to a 'centrifugal switch'. Is this going to be disturbed whilst removing the rotor? Are they going to be loads of springs and stuff hurling themselves across the garage at 40 miles-an-hour?

 

[HSGB]

Another thing, if the rotor can be pulled right through the stator and out the pulley end, what's stopping the bell-end coming off at the fan end? The only thing holding that fan end on should be the outer race of the roller bearing, within the case housing, why isn't it letting the case come off? None of it makes any sense.

 

[Seadog]

I stripped a motor when I rebuilt an IR compressor. At one end, the bearing was retained by a plate bolted to the bell. Only accessible from inside by making a rather "trick" spanner.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...nd-compressor-resurrection.99662/post-1536914

 

[Guineafowl]

Centrifugal switch - don’t worry about that. There’ll be bob weights attached to the rotor, and switch contacts on the bellend. It won’t fly apart.

Agree with above, maybe a bearing retaining plate.