- Thread starter daveyb
- Start date
simon718
needs to stay off ebay
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the clarkes are highly regarded on here for DIY use - what would be the max thickness you would be wanting to weld? gas and solid wire is far better for bodywork. is there any way you could set up some form of windbreak or weld somewhere sheltered? also minimum current is a consideration for bodywork - typicaly no higher than 25amp
Something like this...?
Clarke MIG90EN Dual purpose MIG - £158.07 inc VAT (from lawson-his.co.uk)
* Power settings from 24 - 90amps. Welds mild steel up to 4mm thickness.
* Ventilated cooling to maintain duty cycle.
* Uses 0.6 / 0.9mm wire up to 5Kg spools.
* Fully variable electronic wire speed control.
* Thermal overload protection with auto reset. Unit operates from 230v, 13amp domestic power supply.
* Everything needed for `NO GAS` welding is included - flux coated mild steel wire, professional style torch assembly, earth clamps & face shield.
* Easily converts to `GAS` MIG welding with optional accessories. Full instructions supplied.
I'll mostly be doing thin car body/exhaust stuff. I might be interested in building a weights bench at some point. I already own a cheap arc welder.
No go with the wind break. I live in a flat with no garden or garage and weld on the street (I check no-one's around before I arc). So I've not nowhere to keep something like that.
Clarke MIG90EN Dual purpose MIG - £158.07 inc VAT (from lawson-his.co.uk)
* Power settings from 24 - 90amps. Welds mild steel up to 4mm thickness.
* Ventilated cooling to maintain duty cycle.
* Uses 0.6 / 0.9mm wire up to 5Kg spools.
* Fully variable electronic wire speed control.
* Thermal overload protection with auto reset. Unit operates from 230v, 13amp domestic power supply.
* Everything needed for `NO GAS` welding is included - flux coated mild steel wire, professional style torch assembly, earth clamps & face shield.
* Easily converts to `GAS` MIG welding with optional accessories. Full instructions supplied.
I'll mostly be doing thin car body/exhaust stuff. I might be interested in building a weights bench at some point. I already own a cheap arc welder.
No go with the wind break. I live in a flat with no garden or garage and weld on the street (I check no-one's around before I arc). So I've not nowhere to keep something like that.
Thanks for that. Having no fan is a turn-off (excuse the pun) and all the other 'Clarkes don't go lower than 30amps. The SIP ones look alright, but I really don't have a lot to spend. I'm think I might just hire one until I'm rich enough to get a decent one and a garage to keep it in! Looks like £250 gets you something that's not a pain to use. Thanks for the help.
I was reading about that yesterday. Just now though I found that - and I'm not sure if it completely solves the issues - they've changed them to a steel wire liner instead of the bad plastic one.
http://www.toolsbypost.com/product_pp.php?id=5129&category=151
http://www.toolsbypost.com/product_pp.php?id=5129&category=151
have a look 
I have a plan...
simon718
needs to stay off ebay
- Messages
- 2,013
georgeB has repaired a sill using a stick welder and (very) cheap rods - amazingly it passed. i would imagine some practice and some decent rods would see you right if you decide to go down that route - no harm getting some offcuts and having a damn good practise in the positions you will be welding in 
Yeah, saw that thread. Will give it a go. I tried thickening the edge of the metal square I'm welding on today by running a line of weld on it before putting it on the car, but I just messed up my square of metal. I might try again tomorrow and do the same on the car, but further in from the edge, then do an overlap weld with it fitted really well. A but weld just seems to be burn hole city. I'll put up some pics and what I did if I achieve it. I've done sills with the Arc before, but with a much thicker plate being welded on with an overlap.
