Boxford restoration

[mr migwire]

a bit more done today, managed to get the bed cleaned and the suds tray drain cleared , then a quick de-grease and it was on with the paint.

the paint i use is craig and rose machine enamel, goes on great and flows out really well.

 

[Wedg1e]

Why, don't it have a gear box/pulley to alter the more than adequate speeds available as standard fitment 210 to 1400 rpm. I wouldn't want to part off at lower end of the higher speed range in any material.
Back gear good for threading and reaming.

Not when it's missing more teeth than Shane MacGowan, it isn't.

 

[mr migwire]

well that's that then, just needs the pulleys hooked back up and the wiring sorted out but the paint job is done.
the back gears have been locked out by means of tightening up the grub screw that puts pressure on the spring and ball bearing to hold the selector lever in position.

 

[Bill Edwards]

You just can't beat fresh paint sometimes, it makes things look soooo nice...

 

[mr migwire]

pulleys and wiring sorted for now, happy days it does what it should and there's no slop in the carriage or cross slide etc.

 

[Austin]

nice job i have just 1 comment youve got it dirty now lol.good lathes though

 

[mr migwire]

 

[lchris21]

Nice resto job ...Bit late in the day as you've already got it running, but my AUD had this lever for engaging the back-gear? This was in conjunction with the lever at the front of the head-stock...Enjoy your lathe

 

[mr migwire]

Nice resto job ...Bit late in the day as you've already got it running, but my AUD had this lever for engaging the back-gear? This was in conjunction with the lever at the front of the head-stock...Enjoy your lathe
View attachment 88793

yep same one, you move the front lever over to the left position to disengage the direct drive then pull the back gear lever to engage. unfortunately there is so many teeth missing on the back gear i can only use the direct drive. still works ok though.

 

[rikrobson]

Mines a later one and has the single lever on the top for the back gear. and therefore has a larger gear cover at the end

 

[Bsmith]

unfortunately there is so many teeth missing on the back gear i can only use the direct drive. still works ok though.

There were a lot of teeth broken off the back gears of my boxford too, when I got it the driven pulley was bolted to the back gear so it could only be used on the higher speeds. Thought I had nothing to lose so I built the broken teeth up with cast iron mma rods and ground and filed to shape (needs lots of patience). I have since done a lot of work using the back gear and it's ok.

 

[Pete.]

Looks like you have teeth broken on both the spindle back gear at the other end too. It's such a shame that after designing a lathe with all these nicely made precision parts, the manufacturer can't be bothered to include a simple device like a spindle lock.

 

[mr migwire]

Looks like you have teeth broken on both the spindle back gear at the other end too. It's such a shame that after designing a lathe with all these nicely made precision parts, the manufacturer can't be bothered to include a simple device like a spindle lock.

yep its a shame, still a usable lathe for a novice like me though, shimming tools up to centre height will be a pain, especially after seeing the quick change post's.

 

[Pete.]

I shimmed tools on my first lathe, you get used to it but it's still a pain. Buy a few sets of cheapo feeler gauges and cut some different thicknesses of flat bar and you'll do ok.

 

[mr migwire]

I shimmed tools on my first lathe, you get used to it but it's still a pain. Buy a few sets of cheapo feeler gauges and cut some different thicknesses of flat bar and you'll do ok.

genius... never thought of feelers, of to skulk around evil bay for some cheep sets now, cheers for the tip.

 

[cocker]

Flea markets are good for old sets of feeler gauges . I got a tobacco tin full for a quid .

 

[penfold]

as Wedg1e says, vfd straight to motor, use the STF/STR (fwd/rev) etc commands on the vfd to control the motor.

Absolutely, most VFDs come with instructions expressly prohibiting any switches or other things fitted between the VFD and the motor.

 

[mr migwire]

Absolutely, most VFDs come with instructions expressly prohibiting any switches or other things fitted between the VFD and the motor.

motor is now straight wired to the vfd with a tap off for the suds pump, both seem to be running fine although the coolant does run a bit slower, i am shopping for a more manly vfd as the one i have was only meant for the ajax saw and is now being asked to run a 3/4 horse motor + the coolant pump (unsure of hp).

incidentally the vfd has had no problem running the hacksaw which has a start and auto shut off switch.

 

[Shox Dr]

genius... never thought of feelers, of to skulk around evil bay for some cheep sets now, cheers for the tip.

Steel banding is also very good

 

[Pete.]

I also used steel banding but when you snip it you get REALLY sharp corners