- Thread starter MattF
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puffernutter
Puffernutter
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I only made the comment because a majority of my classics using the Lucas (prince of darkness) wiring have bullets and use 2 or 4 way connectors to join/split cables!
Cheers
Peter
Cheers
Peter
WorkshopChris
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That should be added to the forum swear list filter, horrible things.
Had a tow bar fitted and they used them. Now as they fail i am having to graft in lumps of loom as they shear the cable in two.
I've fixed non working trailer lights on a couple of Discoverys that had been done with scotch locks, the annoying thing is within a few inches is a connector where they could have just plugged a complete harness in for a few quid with no messing about required.
It's a new life rule, when I see someone bending down putting a scotch-lok in I kick them hard between the legs
8ob
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Ripaults do a version of the bullet that fits those horrid lucas cable joiners, its wasted just below the head and the crimper puts a neat hex crimp into it. No solder needed.
Dont know whether you can see the hex on the jaws of the crimp tool.
Not just me thenI thought I was doing the right thing soldering my lugs on my welding leads. it made them solid and not flexible and snapped after 6 month
puffernutter
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Ripaults do a version of the bullet that fits those horrid lucas cable joiners, its wasted just below the head and the crimper puts a neat hex crimp into it. No solder needed.
Dont know whether you can see the hex on the jaws of the crimp tool.
Those are exactly the ones! (Even the same storage drawers!!)
I've always soldered - where do you get the crimpers from and is there a name/model number?
Cheers
PN
Popcorn
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8ob
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I get all of this sort of gear from http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/272/bullet-crimping-tool. Its a one stop shop that seem to keep everything at a reasonable price. Also worth getting the closing tool, avoid the cheap versions of these because they are made of cheese http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php?xProd=336
Bob
chriskelland
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Chap I know, ex GPO (BT) tells me that they used to use grease filled crimp connectors. Stopped the water wicking up the cable and it worked. Now its all IDC connectors, typical, stop using something
that works and change to something with built in problems. IDC's and water don't mix. Think scotchloks.
that works and change to something with built in problems. IDC's and water don't mix. Think scotchloks.
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GW8IZR
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Hmmm.. thats a generalisation that isn't correct I'm afraid, ok we used to use jelly filled btq and associated crimps... I've repaired hundreds of them due to water ingress. The current terminals and boxes are far more reliable. The network is more reliable as a result of better cable terminating techniques used today. In days gone by as long as there was enough circuit to vaguely ring a bell, seize a line finder and have enough VQ to be able to tell what was being said the circuit was fine... today they successfully pass high speed data along the same circuits and that wouldn't be possible using screw terminals and open MDF's etc.
normspanners
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I totally agree re crimped connectors are better than just solder re breakage we lost arally once coz the joint had been soldered and the wire broke inside the isulation !
Although I did have some issues with some multi plugs relay bases... Like these
I did recently and found that after crimping (with the correct tool BTW I sent £150 or more IIRC on various unisulated crimping tools from snap on mac wurth etc etc ) for the
correct dimple shaped 'BUM' crimpers I call them because of the shape!
![Non_insulated_crimpers_HD_1[2].jpg](https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/products/large/Non_insulated_crimpers_HD_1[2].jpg)
some connections became loose, whilst maneuvering everything into tight little engine control boxes , so where the end of the copper just came out of the wire crimped section, with a VERY hot iron, I gave them the slightest dab with solder which ensured they didnt move, I tested the job by doing some test/trial connectors by crimping and then cutting them back and the solder hadnt travelled very far at all, maybe 1.5mm from the very end of the wire so had a good electrical connection and still had flex where the cable insulation was crimped to the terminal , the boxes are on pumps that do suffer lots of vibration and so far havent caused an issue.
I usually use the wind together and resin heat shrink type repair--- NO SOLDER--and have had very good results, but now for tight spaces now I use these
they are resin filled and have a ring of solder at the centre that melts at heatshrink temp so it is not a 'hard' joint, I have just repaired the wiring on the evo 4 of my lads and getting in to do crimping or normal heat shrinking type repairs was was impossible these connectors worked a dream.
in fact multi core Cable is repaired with heat shrink, and not soldered I was doing some brand new 7 core trailer wire the other day and stripped back a long length of the outer to come across a wound together heat shrunk repair that had been done at manufacture, obviously where one of the inners had been rejoined before going into the outer sheathing process. it was quite a shock to see !
Although I did have some issues with some multi plugs relay bases... Like these
I did recently and found that after crimping (with the correct tool BTW I sent £150 or more IIRC on various unisulated crimping tools from snap on mac wurth etc etc ) for the
correct dimple shaped 'BUM' crimpers I call them because of the shape!
some connections became loose, whilst maneuvering everything into tight little engine control boxes , so where the end of the copper just came out of the wire crimped section, with a VERY hot iron, I gave them the slightest dab with solder which ensured they didnt move, I tested the job by doing some test/trial connectors by crimping and then cutting them back and the solder hadnt travelled very far at all, maybe 1.5mm from the very end of the wire so had a good electrical connection and still had flex where the cable insulation was crimped to the terminal , the boxes are on pumps that do suffer lots of vibration and so far havent caused an issue.
I usually use the wind together and resin heat shrink type repair--- NO SOLDER--and have had very good results, but now for tight spaces now I use these
in fact multi core Cable is repaired with heat shrink, and not soldered I was doing some brand new 7 core trailer wire the other day and stripped back a long length of the outer to come across a wound together heat shrunk repair that had been done at manufacture, obviously where one of the inners had been rejoined before going into the outer sheathing process. it was quite a shock to see !
MattF
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Cheers.
I think I should be okay with the ones I have. They're the same as that last one, just from CPC rather than RS, so should be similar quality/rating, (I hope 
).Just on another note, there'll be nowt special about this blue hose/piping, will there?
It's chafed/split where you can see that patch of corrosion/scale on the bottom of the tank. Was planning on cutting out that section and replacing it with some black plastic tubing I have here, (think it was from one of those plant irrigation kits. It's unused, btw
), using a couple of inline couplers, rather than battling tryingto get the old tubing out of those press lock couplers. That stuff should be fine, I'm assuming, with it just being the cold water feed to the tank?
MattF
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How long do we think it'll take for water pressure to blast this piping apart? Two 90 degree elbows have allowed me to clear the bottom edge of the tank, using a length of that black tubing between.
On the subject of those elbows, I did get an inquisitive look earlier at work, when I handed over a receipt from an aquatic shop.
Two 90 degree elbows have allowed me to clear the bottom edge of the tank, using a length of that black tubing between.On the subject of those elbows, I did get an inquisitive look earlier at work, when I handed over a receipt from an aquatic shop.
