Blackening with boiled linseed, wax? And carbon?

[GraemeVW]

I'm sure I read, probably in the vice thread, about using boiled linseed on bare steel/iron but with carbon and maybe wax in it, so it blackens too.
Well, darkens, probably not black?

But I can't remember what was said and I don't think it was very detailed.
I'm tempted to do my vice with this rather than paint. Might practice on my cast iron light switch first.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Got any info?
I'm sure I didn't dream it.

Internet is only throwing up blackening metal with heat and oil quench, not what im after.

Thanks.

 

[Screwdriver]

Stove blacking is what you're looking for.

Amazon.co.uk : stove blacking

 

[GraemeVW]

If the mix I read about is no different to stove blacking I won't bother.
Hate that stuff!
I fit fireplaces/stoves for a living.

 

[MattF]

You can add linseed oil, but I wouldn't bother. I now omit that, & just use a turpentine, beeswax & graphite powder.

It is very similar to stove black, but not the same. That photo I posted last night of the swivel jaw Parkinson. That vice is coated with the mix. That blend had linseed oil added.

If you wanted to blacken it further, lamp black is what you'd add to the mix.

 

[ronan]

I'm sure I read, probably in the vice thread, about using boiled linseed on bare steel/iron but with carbon and maybe wax in it, so it blackens too.
Well, darkens, probably not black?

But I can't remember what was said and I don't think it was very detailed.
I'm tempted to do my vice with this rather than paint. Might practice on my cast iron light switch first.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Got any info?
I'm sure I didn't dream it.

Internet is only throwing up blackening metal with heat and oil quench, not what im after.

Thanks.

What are you trying to blacken ?

 

[GraemeVW]

What are you trying to blacken ?

A vice, with practice first on an iron crabtree switch.

 

[MattF]

If you use it to blacken smooth metal, a light dusting of surface rust helps no end. It doesn't take very well to really smooth metal. For cast, the surface lends itself to a wax finish.

I have a ball base which I did with shoe polish. I'll dig a photo out later. It had multiple layers applied, to achieve its look. A combo of black, brown & clear/neutral.

 

[ronan]

A vice, with practice first on an iron crabtree switch.

I don't know if this is any use to you, but it does work. It gives a black finish like what you would see on tools, clamping kits for a milling machine for instance. I bought a cheap pot in a charity shop, bought the Hydrogen peroxide in the chemists and the salt and distilled white vinegar i had, mixed it up in the proportions the lad gives in the video and had a go.

Got a bit of 20mm mild steel bar and cleaned it up with some emery, got a nice clean semi-polished surface and then copied what is done in the video, it worked !

 

[GraemeVW]

What I don't want is something that will transfer black ontonother surfaces, like stove black can.

 

[Screwdriver]

What I don't want is something that will transfer black ontonother surfaces, like stove black can.

Then I think you're in the realms of chemical blacking. Something I have done a fair few times now - something to do with selenium oxide...

Search for "antiquing fluid" and you'll find all the information I have.

 

[badabec]

Selsun shampoo contains selenium sulphide which will happily turn earrings black (customers who didn't read the instructions...)

 

[ronan]

Then I think you're in the realms of chemical blacking. Something I have done a fair few times now - something to do with selenium oxide...

Search for "antiquing fluid" and you'll find all the information I have.

If thats the stuff in the Birchwood Casey "cold blue", that smells fishy, i find it next to useless. Used it a few times and the blue always wore off quickly.

 

[GraemeVW]

Sounding very much like I'm best off sticking with paint.

 

[Screwdriver]

Sounding very much like I'm best off sticking with paint.

Depends on the "look" you are after and the specific reason(s) you did not want to use paint. These various patination fluids use a number of differing chemistries to achieve similar darkening results. Last time I used chem blacking and then a thin clear coat of urethane "varnish".

 

[GraemeVW]

Depends on the "look" you are after and the specific reason(s) you did not want to use paint. These various patination fluids use a number of differing chemistries to achieve similar darkening results. Last time I used chem blacking and then a thin clear coat of urethane "varnish".

The vice was going to be green, but no colour or shade is taking my fancy. I don't want to paint it black, but I've seen blackened vices that look nice so was considering that.

 

[MattF]

That's why I did my swivel jaw with a wax finish. Paint just wasn't inspiring me with regard to that one.

 

[Screwdriver]

The vice was going to be green, but no colour or shade is taking my fancy. I don't want to paint it black, but I've seen blackened vices that look nice so was considering that.

I once found a lovely green that worked well with blo and cast iron.

Forget what shade it was tho. Might be detailed in a thread here (or somewhere).

 

[GraemeVW]

@Screwdriver that looks well! It's the shade I was considering.
I was going to use halfords aerosol enamel, I've been using them a fair bit recently and quite like them.
So the bare metal just has boiled linseed oil on?
I've not actually used that before. I was going to leave the bare steel bare.

 

[MattF]

The beauty of linseed oil on bare metal is that it protects it, & also gives you an ideal base if you decide to paint later on.

 

[Screwdriver]

@Screwdriver that looks well! It's the shade I was considering.
I was going to use halfords aerosol enamel, I've been using them a fair bit recently and quite like them.
So the bare metal just has boiled linseed oil on?
I've not actually used that before. I was going to leave the bare steel bare.

Google suggests I posted the full thread on The Garage Journal.

Fox Universal Trimmer

I must admit, I bought this because it's a lovely flat surface and would make an awesome welding table. But it seems a shame to chop it up when I could easily refurbish it and get it back to new. Thing is, I really don't need one! So I guess it would be restored for sale. In which case, what...

www.garagejournal.com

If I mention the precise paint anywhere, it should be here.