- Thread starter Hood
- Start date
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,891
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Ha ha sods law for sure, thankfully my hearing is crap when it comes to hearing phones ring
henry Kadzielski
Member
- Messages
- 1,232
- Location
- Australia Wollongong
Good morning Hood.
Just completed a repair to a fuel tank, alli about 20 years old
As can be seen not in the best condition. However after blasting and washing.
The bottom had to be cut out as had corroded through on it's support base. So new bottom welded in. Tank 4mm and new material 5083 6mm.
The actual purpose of this post is to show you what is possible with a double pulse machine. This is the filler surround that stops fuel spills into the bilge. This whole tank will be blaster and painted with epoxy to stop it corroding from the outside in. All done with 'Francis' TPS320i which I am still getting used to, however she is rather compliant and dosen't yell at me to come home
Just completed a repair to a fuel tank, alli about 20 years old
As can be seen not in the best condition. However after blasting and washing.
The bottom had to be cut out as had corroded through on it's support base. So new bottom welded in. Tank 4mm and new material 5083 6mm.
The actual purpose of this post is to show you what is possible with a double pulse machine. This is the filler surround that stops fuel spills into the bilge. This whole tank will be blaster and painted with epoxy to stop it corroding from the outside in. All done with 'Francis' TPS320i which I am still getting used to, however she is rather compliant and dosen't yell at me to come home
henry Kadzielski
Member
- Messages
- 1,232
- Location
- Australia Wollongong
Just a pic of the completed tank, post blasting and painting
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,891
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Nice job Henry 
Alu is always a pain when it is sitting down on a wet surface and has some movement, the oxide never gets to form the protective barrier and the corrosion just continues unabated. Looks like the rest of the tank is in good enough nick though
Regarding the plastic coating, once was on a boat where we went through hydraulic spool valve levers in short order, the place we got the spares from said they could supply a marinised one. What it turned out to be was the standard one plastic coated so the first thing we had to do was cut away the plastic from the inside so that it would fit. Few months later things still looked good but then suddenly one day it just gave way, the alu had rotted away internally just leaving the plastic coat Obviously not an issue with your tank and the coating as the fuel inside will help stop it rotting from inside out but it just reminded me of that episode
Alu is always a pain when it is sitting down on a wet surface and has some movement, the oxide never gets to form the protective barrier and the corrosion just continues unabated. Looks like the rest of the tank is in good enough nick though
Regarding the plastic coating, once was on a boat where we went through hydraulic spool valve levers in short order, the place we got the spares from said they could supply a marinised one. What it turned out to be was the standard one plastic coated so the first thing we had to do was cut away the plastic from the inside so that it would fit. Few months later things still looked good but then suddenly one day it just gave way, the alu had rotted away internally just leaving the plastic coat
Obviously not an issue with your tank and the coating as the fuel inside will help stop it rotting from inside out but it just reminded me of that episode henry Kadzielski
Member
- Messages
- 1,232
- Location
- Australia Wollongong
Commercial marine vessels and their systems cop a fair bashing, much more so than recreational vessels. I started painting fuel tanks on the outside, as back in 2002 built two 1100liter tanks and left them bare, they were in the tiller room of a 65footer. Due to the humidity in there 5 years later they developed that white spotted oxide. This is the problem, left untreated will eventually corrode the tank from the outside
.
And since I built it, was not happy with the appearance now. The owner dosn't care, but I know it is mine and it dosn't look the way it was when new.
.And since I built it, was not happy with the appearance now. The owner dosn't care, but I know it is mine and it dosn't look the way it was when new.
henry Kadzielski
Member
- Messages
- 1,232
- Location
- Australia Wollongong
Jotamastic 87 Alli by Jotun paints which will be available in your area. Another alternative is Jotacote 605, which is the recommended coating. I used the Jotamastic 87 as it was on hand. Jotamastic 87 alli is primarily a epoxy for underwater use on steel as a prima. There is a new version of Jotamastic 87 it now has a suffix of 90. Hope that helps
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,891
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Have been making a lot of progress the last while on the boat and the R-Tech has been doing a sterling job
So few more pics.
Got the upright rollers/brackets fitted and also fabricated an angled spray & flag deflector in front of the roller system. That was a real PITA to do as it was many different angles so ended up having to make it out of 100mm wide strips formed to the shape, all welded together then welds ground down to leave a reasonably smooth surface. It looks flat in the pic but I can ssure you it curves this way and that way and another way
Also got the secondary control handles box finished and the secondary steering wheel box finished and some guard rails done. The gunwale was also widened with an angle frame and topped off with black 10mm thick HDPE, this is for sliding the gear down before placing on the shooting table and will save having to carry the heavy steel creels.
Only pic I have of the shooting table fitted to the boat is this side view and you only really see the edge of the table, just keep forgetting to take pics
Have the steering linkages to make up, a few rope deflectors for the back of the table and then the wiring and that should be me finished. Have another boat to make a table for and then the 10m Cheetah cat should be arriving about the 7th of April so looks like I am not going to get a wee break
So few more pics.
Got the upright rollers/brackets fitted and also fabricated an angled spray & flag deflector in front of the roller system. That was a real PITA to do as it was many different angles so ended up having to make it out of 100mm wide strips formed to the shape, all welded together then welds ground down to leave a reasonably smooth surface. It looks flat in the pic but I can ssure you it curves this way and that way and another way
Also got the secondary control handles box finished and the secondary steering wheel box finished and some guard rails done. The gunwale was also widened with an angle frame and topped off with black 10mm thick HDPE, this is for sliding the gear down before placing on the shooting table and will save having to carry the heavy steel creels.
Only pic I have of the shooting table fitted to the boat is this side view and you only really see the edge of the table, just keep forgetting to take pics
Have the steering linkages to make up, a few rope deflectors for the back of the table and then the wiring and that should be me finished. Have another boat to make a table for and then the 10m Cheetah cat should be arriving about the 7th of April so looks like I am not going to get a wee break
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,891
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,891
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
@Jim Davey did you ever manage to get the rest uploaded?
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,891
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Excellent, will go watch it now
Think it will be after midnight before they get here, so it will be tomorrow before I can give ita blast
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,891
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Excellent video again Jim, clear and concise
When you see this you start to understand why the top end welders are more expensive than the run of the mill stuff, just so configurable and layout and ease of configuring them is logical.
Been trying to find the key slot in the back of my neck for my configuration settings but not found it yet, hoping the default programme is good enough
When you see this you start to understand why the top end welders are more expensive than the run of the mill stuff, just so configurable and layout and ease of configuring them is logical.
Been trying to find the key slot in the back of my neck for my configuration settings but not found it yet, hoping the default programme is good enough
Jim Davey
R H Davey Welding Supplies Ltd
- Messages
- 5,743
- Location
- Southampton
Right, a few on how to fit the liner.
It's supplied long and you cut it down to length. It's important to take a Stanley knife and chamfer the end so that the liner stands a chance of making it all the way to the end of the conduit and into its receptacle at the end of the torch as there is always a joint where the flexible part of the torch stops and then torch body starts.
Then once the liner is all the way home, put the collet on, then the o ring and liner nut. Don't use the a spanner on the nut or you can crush the liner causing wire jams.
Next the o ring
Then we can fit the torch and cut the liner to exact length as close to the drive rolls as possible.
Cut the liner to length and then we can fit the liner protection tube which helps support the liner and protect it from damage in the event of a feed jam.
Again, the tubes are supplied long and need cutting down to length. Like so...
It's supplied long and you cut it down to length. It's important to take a Stanley knife and chamfer the end so that the liner stands a chance of making it all the way to the end of the conduit and into its receptacle at the end of the torch as there is always a joint where the flexible part of the torch stops and then torch body starts.
Then once the liner is all the way home, put the collet on, then the o ring and liner nut. Don't use the a spanner on the nut or you can crush the liner causing wire jams.
Next the o ring
Then we can fit the torch and cut the liner to exact length as close to the drive rolls as possible.
Cut the liner to length and then we can fit the liner protection tube which helps support the liner and protect it from damage in the event of a feed jam.
Again, the tubes are supplied long and need cutting down to length. Like so...
