Bicycle frame build.

  1. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    My new bike frame is starting to take shape.

    This is where I'm up to.

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    Tube delivery from Reynolds.
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    More tubes from Ceeway and some bits from Pragon Machine Works.

    First stage is to check to see if the tubes are striaght by rolling them on the surface table, any bend will be placed in plane where it will be least noticable.

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    Main down tube being checked for bends.

    Next on the list is marking all the butt positions. I've made a simple gauge to measure the positions.

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    Butt gauge.Dont snigger.:)

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    Butt gauge in use on down tube.
     
  2. chunkolini

    chunkolini celebrity artiste

    Messages:
    8,573
    Location:
    Swansea
    Looks interesting. What are you building?
    Disc brakes, funky adjustable dropouts, 2 bottom brackets? a lot of tubes
    A Tandem recumbent?
    Were the tubes butted to your spec or are they off the shelf? How easy is ti to buy this quality of tube from Reynolds?

    Keep us posted on your project as it develops.

    I have a vague long term plan.

    Chunko'.
     
  3. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    Just a simple mountain bike. More than I need for one bike due to min order quanties and if youre ordering from the USA then postage is huge so I wanted to keep my options open.

    All tubes are off the shelf, Reynolds have a min order, think its £125, you can order less but they get you on the postage.
     
  4. Gsus Member

    Messages:
    22
    S pain
    WoooooooooooW!!!!
    Amazing, just what i want to do.
    would be there any possibility to get the reynolds pipes by Internet?? they are hard to find here in spain.
    Why didnt you buy the 953?? Are they much more expensive?
    Cheers, best wishes with your project.
    I am going to get comfortable as i follow this threat: :clapping:

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    ++++

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  5. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    My build has to be good for a 140mm fork so I went with the 853 DZB tubeset which is butted for this very application.

    Not sure about 953 prices, probably a bit more expensive.

    Have a look hear http://reynoldstechnology.biz/, they seem to have a distributor in France.
     
  6. Alfaman

    Alfaman Banned

    Messages:
    214
    UK, Glasgow
    Rust-free surface plate...check
    Whitewashed walls...check
    Dial gauge immaculate...check
    Clean white worktop...check

    Sure sign of a warped mind! :laughing::laughing:

    Only joking mate, sounds like a cool build! Keep the updates coming:welder::welder:
     
  7. Burf86

    Burf86 Member

    Messages:
    218
    Location:
    Frome, Somerset
    I'm trying to make a frame too, this is what Iv got so far
     
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  8. drivewasher

    drivewasher Member

    Messages:
    373
    Wigan
    Im a bit puzzled to be honest, but i could be thick.

    1. Whats the relevance of photo's of a leather chair and a bag of sunflower seeds?

    2. How do you use a dial gauge to gauge lenght?
     
  9. BeeJay99

    BeeJay99 Forum Supporter

    I think he is just getting comfortable.
     
  10. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    The tube is internally butted so I need to find the position of these, the dial gauge measures the wall thickness and I can just mark the position of these transitions with a pen, then I get an idea of where to cut to make sure I'm in the thicker part of the tube.

    Burf86, looks good, what tube set are you using.
     
  11. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    So a bit more work on the frame today.

    Front triangle more or less mitred up, just the overlap between the down tube and seat tube to sort out.

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    Down tube to head tube mitre.

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    Down tube fitted into jig.

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    Cutting the top tube to seat tube mitre.

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    Seat tube and tope tube fitted into jig.
     
  12. M4RKE Member

    Messages:
    136
    kent
    Looking good there how are you planning on joining it all up ? Silver solder lugless ?
     
  13. Gsus Member

    Messages:
    22
    S pain
    are you a profesional frame builder?
    Its seems like you are
    how many bikes have you done before?
     
  14. Burf86

    Burf86 Member

    Messages:
    218
    Location:
    Frome, Somerset
    The down tube and top tube are a stock 4130 plain gauge tube. 30mm and 35mm OD. The seat tube, chain stays, BB and head tube are from Cways.
    I'm using a belt sander I created to notch my tubes, there is a thread about it here (I need to update it): http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=23792&page=5
    I heard a hole saw could catch the thin walls and warp them a bit. But on doing more research after I started it seems hole saws are fine?
    I like your jig, hope you don't mind if I pinch some ideas?

    Burf
     
  15. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    M4RKE, Frame will be TIG welded together.

    Gsus, no, not a professional although I have made one other frame before plus a few bikes made by welding old frames together.

    Burf86, I like the belt sander, does it put much heat into the tubes? I guess you can trim away really small amounts, how long does it take to mitre a tube?

    The hole saw works really well for me. I run at about 60 rpm with loads of lube and hand feed. Mind you 853 is pretty hard and it takes a fair few minutes to get thu.

    My jigs a copy, seems to work really well but takes an eterinty to set up.

    What seat tube did you get from Ceeways, I used a 28.6mm tube which only left 0.7mm wall thickness, even with an expandable heat sink I was still getting a lot of distortion and weld break thru on the inside of the tube. I ended up fitting a sleeve on the outside and will do the same on this bike.
     
  16. Shox Dr

    Shox Dr Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango

    Messages:
    13,804
    Location:
    East Yorkshire
    How will you connect the sleeve to the seat tube. What process?
     
  17. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    Last time I drilled 3 holes and plug welded the sleeve into position.

    When the top tube and seat tubes are welded into place it pins it all together.

    Some people will run silver or brass when all the tig is done.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. overload Member

    Messages:
    243
    Oxon, England
    Good stuff!! I shall be watching with interest!!
     
  19. citizen kane Member

    Messages:
    157
    UK Hampshire
    Fiddly little mitre at the seat/down tube mitre completed so now I have a front triangle.

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  20. gavuk

    gavuk artful-bodger

    Messages:
    2,951
    uk wiltshire
    That fit up is great C.K do you find the finer teeth holesaws better than the coarse pitch you photo'd earlier?....that white holesaw looked too coarse...nice work :clapping:.....looking forward to seeing the weld ,now you've left yourself no excuses :laughing:
     
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