puffernutter
Puffernutter
- Messages
- 1,811
- Location
- Wiltshire
Last week our Beko washing machine died. It would fill for about 5s, then immediately empty, then fill for about 5s, then empty ad nauseum!
I did some research and concluded it was most probably the Control Board. After parting with £70 (cost of the spare part) I changed it and ....no change!
My son then found a "self test" mode and we've proved that the door locks, each water inlet valve works, it can detect positive pressure (i.e. enough water in the drum), then drains, and drains and drains and goes no further, we cannot step it on! We presume that the next mode is the drum to move (which is free and the belt intact) but never gets there!
There are two pressure switches both connected by a "Y" to a common point. One is a conventional diaphragm and is independent of the control broad (only allows power to teh heater when there is water in the drum) the second is more complicated, seems to be a diaphragm linked to a metal road moving within a coil and there a couple of capacitors (I think) on the board. So maybe a resonant circuit?
This is what we think says "drum empty", so that was replaced this morning. Still will not stop emptying!
I have blown through these pipe and I can hear the other (heater pressure switch) click, so I assume it is clear and it can sense pressure as it allows the self test to proceed when there is enough water in the drum (water keeps of filling until that point), it's just not detecting empty. The drain pump has only two wires (so no sensor there) and all other wires to the control are accounted for.
The motor is three phase "solid state" and known to be much more reliable than motors with brushes.
OK, I can buy another washing machine (but I'd rather not splash the cash!) - also this isn't going to beat me!
What am I missing??
Cheers
Peter
I did some research and concluded it was most probably the Control Board. After parting with £70 (cost of the spare part) I changed it and ....no change!
My son then found a "self test" mode and we've proved that the door locks, each water inlet valve works, it can detect positive pressure (i.e. enough water in the drum), then drains, and drains and drains and goes no further, we cannot step it on! We presume that the next mode is the drum to move (which is free and the belt intact) but never gets there!
There are two pressure switches both connected by a "Y" to a common point. One is a conventional diaphragm and is independent of the control broad (only allows power to teh heater when there is water in the drum) the second is more complicated, seems to be a diaphragm linked to a metal road moving within a coil and there a couple of capacitors (I think) on the board. So maybe a resonant circuit?
This is what we think says "drum empty", so that was replaced this morning. Still will not stop emptying!
I have blown through these pipe and I can hear the other (heater pressure switch) click, so I assume it is clear and it can sense pressure as it allows the self test to proceed when there is enough water in the drum (water keeps of filling until that point), it's just not detecting empty. The drain pump has only two wires (so no sensor there) and all other wires to the control are accounted for.
The motor is three phase "solid state" and known to be much more reliable than motors with brushes.
OK, I can buy another washing machine (but I'd rather not splash the cash!) - also this isn't going to beat me!
What am I missing??
Cheers
Peter