anyone know about big mowers ?

[Turbo]

I suggest that you swap the timing belt before the engine goes in, especially if the engine has been sitting for a while.

As regards the radiator connections, in my 205gti stock car I had the rad rear mounted where the back seat was. I connected the bottom of the rad to the outlet just above the driveshaft carrier bearing & the top of the rad to the thermostat housing with all other ports blanked off. Never had problems with overheating over many seasons of racing.

You could keep the vacuum pump & swap the inlet/outlet so that it produces pressure instead of a vacuum, though I doubt it would charge up a tank. Maybe the air pump & tank of a HGV would be an option?

 

[oldbikedavey]

My mower has a frontal deck that side exits so it sprays grass out off to one side rather than rotary cylinders as they're a bit better suited to uneven surfaces. You can get batwing mowers the same for gang setups. I just blow the rad out when I fill the tank and check hydraulic levels. The air filter the same which does get dirty quickly otherwise.

When I bought it , it had a grass collection system with a extra fan that attached the deck exit and fired the grass into a big container on the back, which was hydraulically tipped out periodically.
But, I dont want to spend my life making piles of grass clippings, and removing it helped stability on banks which I need.

I noticed your machine is a cylinder mower, hopefully your paddock is flat and not riddled with molehills and surprise holes left by the dogs.

Sounds like a Walker mower. Used to use those in France, and the air blower is a very good thing to have, as it tries quite hard to keep the dust and straw chaff localised and directed from the rear of the machine, besides compacting it quite well in the rear box.

 

[sako243]

As regards the radiator connections, in my 205gti stock car I had the rad rear mounted where the back seat was. I connected the bottom of the rad to the outlet just above the driveshaft carrier bearing & the top of the rad to the thermostat housing with all other ports blanked off. Never had problems with overheating over many seasons of racing.

Only point I'd make is that car engines aren't designed to run at 100% of their rated power 100% of the time whereas agricultural / industrial / marine / aero engines quite often are. A previous colleague who'd worked a lot with marinaising automotive engines said sometimes they're designed to run at full power for about 10% of their life / daily cycle.

It's pretty obvious when I took out my JCB engine, a 4l 4 pot that makes 50-60hp but weighs in at half a tonne. The head weighs more than the block in my defender which is just over half the capacity and double the power. The rad is the size of the front end on the Defender and double the thickness of the radiators and copper.

Only saying this because a car engine with airflow over the radiator (even if it's at the back) will be a lot less stressed than something running flat out for hours on end. E.g. That wee tractor rarely runs at anything less than it's rated revs (2500rpm) unless pottering about between places. However I'd imagine the car engine over powered in this scenario so there's some leeway there.

 

[Bravheart]

That N H looks like the bonnet should seal round the radiator with mesh panels cut in for drawing clean air to save the radiator clogging up along with the mesh grill in front of the cooling coil. After you fit the new engine and radiator you should try and fabricate a similar sealed area it doesn't take long for clippings to get drawn into the system especially as it looks like there's no grass collector box and last weeks clippings will be dried out and kicked up in the air again.

 

[sako243]

Just to clarify the NH isn't being re-engined (yet). It was was just to show the mesh to the OP. Given the flail mower is 5ft behind the radiator and ejects clippings at high velocity grass clippings aren't really an issue.

 

[Bravheart]

Just to clarify the NH isn't being re-engined (yet). It was was just to show the mesh to the OP. Given the flail mower is 5ft behind the radiator and ejects clippings at high velocity grass clippings aren't really an issue

My post was for the op using the nh as an example of how the cooling area should be sealed. I've an iseki out front and the bonnet latches tight with sealing strips all round including accross the top of the bonnet like yours and mesh areas for drawing air through which need regular cleaning.

 

[Baloo]

The wee tractor. Quarter turn catch at the back of the bonnet to pop it open.
View attachment 452752
Grill then just pulls up, although on this one I need to pop the rubber intake hose off its clip (just squeeze and pull).
View attachment 452753
A couple of months worth of mowing
View attachment 452754
Radiator is nice and clean
View attachment 452755
Bearing in mind the battery blocks a chunk you still have all that rubbish getting through this grill.
View attachment 452756

hi thanks for that l will see what i can find to use

 

[Baloo]

@Baloo Most big tractors, combines, excavator etc these days have electric fans that are reversible. They can be set up so that they blow backwards for a defined period of time every so often to blow stuff off the rads. If you're putting an electric fan on you could do the same.

sounds a good idea and easy to implement

 

[Baloo]

I suggest that you swap the timing belt before the engine goes in, especially if the engine has been sitting for a while.

As regards the radiator connections, in my 205gti stock car I had the rad rear mounted where the back seat was. I connected the bottom of the rad to the outlet just above the driveshaft carrier bearing & the top of the rad to the thermostat housing with all other ports blanked off. Never had problems with overheating over many seasons of racing.

You could keep the vacuum pump & swap the inlet/outlet so that it produces pressure instead of a vacuum, though I doubt it would charge up a tank. Maybe the air pump & tank of a HGV would be an option?

hi
yes i was going to swap the timing belt and water pump as access will never be as easy as it is now, i found this on ebay

BGA Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit for Rover 418 XUD9 1.9 Sep 1991 to Sep 1995 | eBay

Engine Code: XUD9. TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS. We will try and respond back to you as promptly as possible. If you do require your parts extra urgently then you can collect from our Northampton depot. We aim to respond back to queries as quick as possible and this is normally within 24-48 hours.

www.ebay.co.uk

anywhere better to buy from ?

thats helpful about the plumbing, i was going to make my own elbow for the bottom water outlet facing backwards

and the top outlet either use as is or remove the whole ally casting and make another elbow facing backwards again
that leaves 4 other water connections that you just blanked off with no ill effects ?

if l remove that ally casting then 2 of the "spare" water connections go with it and ive only got 2 to blank off or loop together

thanks

 

[Baloo]

My mower has a frontal deck that side exits so it sprays grass out off to one side rather than rotary cylinders as they're a bit better suited to uneven surfaces. You can get batwing mowers the same for gang setups. I just blow the rad out when I fill the tank and check hydraulic levels. The air filter the same which does get dirty quickly otherwise.

When I bought it , it had a grass collection system with a extra fan that attached the deck exit and fired the grass into a big container on the back, which was hydraulically tipped out periodically.
But, I dont want to spend my life making piles of grass clippings, and removing it helped stability on banks which I need.

I noticed your machine is a cylinder mower, hopefully your paddock is flat and not riddled with molehills and surprise holes left by the dogs.

hi the grass area i want to mow is fairly flat and its what i would call a rotary mower not cylinder if my terminology is correct

 

[Baloo]

Only point I'd make is that car engines aren't designed to run at 100% of their rated power 100% of the time whereas agricultural / industrial / marine / aero engines quite often are. A previous colleague who'd worked a lot with marinaising automotive engines said sometimes they're designed to run at full power for about 10% of their life / daily cycle.

It's pretty obvious when I took out my JCB engine, a 4l 4 pot that makes 50-60hp but weighs in at half a tonne. The head weighs more than the block in my defender which is just over half the capacity and double the power. The rad is the size of the front end on the Defender and double the thickness of the radiators and copper.

Only saying this because a car engine with airflow over the radiator (even if it's at the back) will be a lot less stressed than something running flat out for hours on end. E.g. That wee tractor rarely runs at anything less than it's rated revs (2500rpm) unless pottering about between places. However I'd imagine the car engine over powered in this scenario so there's some leeway there.

l agree car engines are light duty compared to industrial engines but my reasoning was that its more than 3 times the power of the Mitsubishi engine its replaced so im hoping i can run it at half power/throttle where as the original engine was flat out all the time, further more im not a contractor i won't be running it 6 days a week 8 hours a day its more a case of 1 hour every 2 weeks in the summer, most cars can run for an hour up a motorway with out ill effect, i have all the room in the world to have any sized radiator i want but at the end of the day its all guess work it will either work or it will blow up lol, its not like its going to leave me stranded on the M25 just a short walk back up through the woods to the barn to fetch the tractor to drag it back to the yard lol oh and the most important reason was i had it , its free

 

[jmp49]

hi the grass area i want to mow is fairly flat and its what i would call a rotary mower not cylinder if my terminology is correct

Oh yes, that's definitely a deck mower too, sorry my bad, I had it in my head that you had got a cylinder mower because most of the used ransomes on the market are cylinders being ex greens machines etc, the deck variants are rarer and more worth saving. I guess grass will exit to one side of the deck on the righthand rear edge and spray away from you rather than right back at you, so your not driving through a cloud of clippings the same as mine although my exit is on the side of the deck rather than the rear.
I think if you get the govenor issue resolved, that will be the ideal tool for the job and that motor will be ok for it.

 

[Baloo]

Oh yes, that's definitely a deck mower too, sorry my bad, I had it in my head that you had got a cylinder mower because most of the used ransomes on the market are cylinders being ex greens machines etc, the deck variants are rarer and more worth saving. I guess grass will exit to one side of the deck on the righthand rear edge and spray away from you rather than right back at you, so your not driving through a cloud of clippings the same as mine although my exit is on the side of the deck rather than the rear.
I think if you get the govenor issue resolved, that will be the ideal tool for the job and that motor will be ok for it.

hi yes worth saving i think, i just need it to cut grass so not to worried about having the wrong engine in it, most of the panels are missing but that wont stop it cutting, it came with this one which is all complete but has a petrol engine, this can be a nut and bolt restoration over the winter

 

[Baloo]

i found an electric fan off a bmw diesel that about the right size, why is there 3 wires to the fan, back in my day it only required 2, is the little wire reporting back to the ecu to flag up a code when its not working ?

i could sit the rad further down in the frame by 6" or so but im thinking about driving of the back of the flywheel with a pto shaft to work maybe a powered leaf/grass collector and would need that room for the shaft to pass through to the flange that would be mounted on the back of the mower

 

[jmp49]

Personally I'd just park the petrol one round the back and use it for drivetrain spares once you get the diesel one going, there's nothing really rare about ransomes of that period to warrant some months long resto imho.
All the fan reversing etc sounds great but I have a mechanical fan on the water pump and blow it out with a bit of air. Seems much simpler to me. I do have a water temp gauge though which if you dont have probably is worth doing more.

For powered grass collectors. I have the kubota pto driven grass fan/collection system complete with dump box that can high tip into a industrial container. And its been on a pallet for years because it adds weight (I'd estimate about 100kg + weight of grass) where it affects the centre of gravity on slopes and pushes up complexity. If I was doing manicured lawns it would be handy but for my garden it just means I have to add time in to stop to go dump the bin also and its already 2hrs of my life I wont ever get back every 2 weeks. And I imagine its a pain for clogging with damp grass.
On the kubota system the blower fan itself is mounted right on the deck adding to the width and making it less lowline to nip under trees, and driven by a gearbox that is pto powered. The rightmost of the deck spindles has a second pto box mounted, and its span by the deck belt but outputs drive to the fan via its pto. So its not driven directly off the motor at all, but via the front pto. The dump hydraulics are tapped into the machine hydraulic circuit that lifts the deck and does the power steering etc. It makes sense to have the fan up front because the fan isn't having to suck down the entire length of the 200mm tube that connects it the dump box and risk getting clogged all the time. I imagine it takes a fair amount of power to drive.

 

[jenki]

Just a thought does the Peugeot engine have an oil cooler? If not might be worth considering the VW oil/water intercooler type attached to the oil filter as the install is in essence a stationary engine.

 

[sako243]

i found an electric fan off a bmw diesel that about the right size, why is there 3 wires to the fan, back in my day it only required 2, is the little wire reporting back to the ecu to flag up a code when its not working ?

It may be a tacho out but from a quick bit of Googling that fan appears to be used in E90 frames? The small signal wire may well be a control signal to the fan to tell it how fast to spin.

I'd take a guess that it's constant power on the two bigger cables and then a PWM signal on the other to regulate the fan speed. Perhaps @premmington or someone else in the trade can provide some more insight with access to wiring diagrams for a vehicle it was used in.

 

[Turbo]

yes i was going to swap the timing belt and water pump as access will never be as easy as it is now, i found this on ebay

That looks very expensive for a kit, cheaper on autodoc.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/timing-belt-set-10505/peugeot/309/309-i-10c-10a/2368-1-9-d

But to be honest I'd buy local, peugeot used slightly different timing belts across their engines & the only way to know is to compare the old & new parts & count the teeth on the belt.

and the top outlet either use as is or remove the whole ally casting and make another elbow facing backwards again
that leaves 4 other water connections that you just blanked off with no ill effects ?

That being a diesel is different to the gti engine, maybe a pic of the pipe locations would help. That alloy block contains your water temp gauges & I think the bottom lhs connection is nearest the stat.
I think I still have a 205 or 309d haynes manual, yours for the cost of post.
Here's a page with useful info & pics in it.
https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=62872

I think you'll need to keep the original elbow at the back of the engine to connect the header tank where the cabin heater used to go to.

 

[Baloo]

That looks very expensive for a kit, cheaper on autodoc.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/timing-belt-set-10505/peugeot/309/309-i-10c-10a/2368-1-9-d

But to be honest I'd buy local, peugeot used slightly different timing belts across their engines & the only way to know is to compare the old & new parts & count the teeth on the belt.



That being a diesel is different to the gti engine, maybe a pic of the pipe locations would help. That alloy block contains your water temp gauges & I think the bottom lhs connection is nearest the stat.
I think I still have a 205 or 309d haynes manual, yours for the cost of post.
Here's a page with useful info & pics in it.
https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=62872

I think you'll need to keep the original elbow at the back of the engine to connect the header tank where the cabin heater used to go to.

thank you very useful link, it answers my questions on the water pipes ( almost lol )

i can see where they all go apart from this one in the front of the head

i have no idea where that one went will probably just feed it into the top hose outlet

any idea why there is 2 water temp sensors ? one for gauge and one for fans ?

and those are the other 2 water outlets that i dont need


and will pm you about workshop manual

 

[Baloo]

Only point I'd make is that car engines aren't designed to run at 100% of their rated power 100% of the time whereas agricultural / industrial / marine / aero engines quite often are. A previous colleague who'd worked a lot with marinaising automotive engines said sometimes they're designed to run at full power for about 10% of their life / daily cycle.

It's pretty obvious when I took out my JCB engine, a 4l 4 pot that makes 50-60hp but weighs in at half a tonne. The head weighs more than the block in my defender which is just over half the capacity and double the power. The rad is the size of the front end on the Defender and double the thickness of the radiators and copper.

Only saying this because a car engine with airflow over the radiator (even if it's at the back) will be a lot less stressed than something running flat out for hours on end. E.g. That wee tractor rarely runs at anything less than it's rated revs (2500rpm) unless pottering about between places. However I'd imagine the car engine over powered in this scenario so there's some leeway there.

sako what sort of jcb do you have ? 3c ?
i have a 3c that im going to steal the engine from for my forklift most of the rest is getting scrapped if you need any spares