any woodburner stove people in here?

[norlander]

early days yet

something in this style is what we would like
http://www.agaliving.com/our-products/stoves/little-wenlock.aspx

would be a bonus if the top could be used , although will have to have a good measure up as the rear exit would make it stand out further into the room

Very nice- and burns coalite as well-yes tis true rear flue pushes stove into living space which if small is not so practical.
Nice stove, these later units are very efficient and somewhat easier to live with.

 

[norlander]

That's the answer I go with. Honestly though, as long as gumption is used, there's no reason anyone can't install one safely. The whole 'certified installer' thing is a crock. It's like everything else. They'd make people scared of their shadows these days, if they could.

I fitted this one in our living room a couple of years ago. Had to knock out the fireplace which had been bricked up.

Chased out and redid all of the mortar lines by hand, (literally. Took the skin off my fingertips doing those), and fitted this Coalbrookdale Little Wenlock:

Couple of stone slabs for the hearth, (nicked off our driveway ), bedded onto a concrete floor.

Biggest pain was fitting the plate in the chimney breast. Made it such a snug fit that it was a devil to get in. Raked out the mortar and seated it in then mortared it in place.

If anyone can say that's an unsafe install, I'll eat my hat, and I haven't spent a moment worrying about its safety either. I followed the regs as far as feasibly possible. Might end up shortening the flue pipe just a tad at some point though.

Nice job-btw I helped a mate install on a parquet floor-just made a base for it to sit on-house aint burned down yet.

 

[puffernutter]

I have a large wood burner with back boiler in the dining room. When our gas combi went wrong about 5 years ago we couldn't fit a new fangled condensing boiler in the same place, so we bit the bullet and went the wood burner route. We had the chimney lined, we have an 1890 terrace and we were advised that there would be a high probability of leaks in the flue due to the age of the mortar etc.

However we don't burn coal or wood, we burn rape seed blocks, they burn twice as hot and last four times as long as timber. They also leave very little residue. Our sweep loves them!
They are available from Green Dragon Fuels in the Nottingham area. I get 1 tonne delivered on a pallet, I get through about 2 pallets per year.

Cheers

Peter aka Puffernutter

 

[Gritineye]

Further to my last post, the final deciding factor making me fit a liner was that a hairline crack had appeared up the middle of the chimney breast, this was opened and closing noticeably with the heat of the stove after the chimney fire.

Apart from the fume risk there was now no way I could have stopped the chimney fire by shutting the stove as air could be drawn through the crack..

It doesn't open since the liner as the breast just doesn't get hot enough..

 

[steveo3002]

another question if you dont mind

so the chimney layout would be like so...chimney to the side and pipework like my picture

id then like to build a brickwork chimney breast? to look like the photo , once bricked in is there a way i can use some kind of telescopic pipe /something else so that i can remove the stove if i need to for any work in the future

so in short...last pic , whats the parts called that allows the stove to be removed without disturbing the rest of the pipes ..sorry still learning all the names and terminology etc

 

[Wendelspanswick]

We have something similar to the last pic but the flue exits horizontally out the back, that way we can just pull the wood burner forward to service the flue.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

If anyone can say that's an unsafe install, I'll eat my hat, and I haven't spent a moment worrying about its safety either. I followed the regs as far as feasibly possible. Might end up shortening the flue pipe just a tad at some point though.

You could do with a soot access door in your register plate, you could sweep your chimney without removing the stove then.

 

[desmo11225]

To the Woodburner People

Hello All
I have now pretty well refurbished our 1950s/60s Multi Fuel stove.
Question????? Is there a Heat Resistant Sealant that can be used to make a fillet, similar to the type used by Window Installers, has anyone tried it and can give recommendations.
I wont be able to dismantle the stove any more and may have leaks when we try/test it before cutting the roof about.
Thank You All for Your Help in the past and a
Very Happy Christmas to You All
desmo11225

 

[gaz1]

high temp silicone

http://www.woodburningstovesandflue...s-c-70_89_98?gclid=CPiZ09qEnrsCFeTLtAodWWwA5g

you can buy it elsewhere only provided link to show

 

[MattF]

You could do with a soot access door in your register plate, you could sweep your chimney without removing the stove then.

Did consider that idea originally, but could never figure a way to stop soot just puthering out of the access hole and everywhere if I did, so I left it out. Any suggestions on that front would be handy, as like you say, it would make life easier for sweeping.

 

[waddycall]

For access holes in register plates we used to cut out a rectangle from the register plate and bolt it to another plate approx 2" bigger. Offer it up through the hole diagonally and lower it down into place. The 1" overlap stops the access plate from dropping out and stops soot falling through.

 

[Wedg1e]

For access holes in register plates we used to cut out a rectangle from the register plate and bolt it to another plate approx 2" bigger. Offer it up through the hole diagonally and lower it down into place. The 1" overlap stops the access plate from dropping out and stops soot falling through.

By coincidence my mate has a log burner in his rental cottage in the Lakes and asked me if I could help him make a soot door for his register plate... he plans to cut 4 holes with a holesaw, join them up with an angle grinder and fit the 2mm plate I cut for him, with a bead of high-temperature sealant to keep the soot at bay.
The plate was about 250 by 280mm IIRC, so the hole would be large enough to get a hand through with a vacuum cleaner nozzle

 

[steveo3002]

any suggestions on post 25 ??

are most stoves able to be pulled away with ease or once fitted thats it

 

[garethp]

By coincidence my mate has a log burner in his rental cottage in the Lakes and asked me if I could help him make a soot door for his register plate... he plans to cut 4 holes with a holesaw, join them up with an angle grinder and fit the 2mm plate I cut for him, with a bead of high-temperature sealant to keep the soot at bay.
The plate was about 250 by 280mm IIRC, so the hole would be large enough to get a hand through with a vacuum cleaner nozzle

I'm not sure you'll need to seal the plate if its a good fit, our last stove had a large plate cemented into the fireplace with a center section that was bolted in, soot never ever came out of the joint. When the chimney is hot it creates a small vacuum due to heat rising so if anything it'll suck air in, not try and push soot / smoke out.

I would try it with no sealant first, if it does leaks try glass fiber tape like they user on the door seals, silicone will pretty much glue it together and make a nightmare to take apart.

 

[Paul99]

any suggestions on post 25 ??

are most stoves able to be pulled away with ease or once fitted thats it

What we do with ours is pack the flue / woodburner socket with fireproof fibreglass rope push it below the surface of the socket to allow a thin layer (5-10mm is plenty) of black fire cement to be smeared over the top of the rope to seal and finish it off. When it comes to pull the fire out the thin layer of fire cement can easily be broken out allowing the flue to pull out of the socket with no fuss, the rope can be used over and over.

 

[steveo3002]

any chance of a pic or quick scribble paul99 ?

i havent had a good look around any installs...with your way doesnt the pipe need lifting up at all? as per my drawing the pipe will go off sideways and fixed in place firmly

 

[Paul99]

any chance of a pic or quick scribble paul99 ?

i havent had a good look around any installs...with your way doesnt the pipe need lifting up at all? as per my drawing the pipe will go off sideways and fixed in place firmly

I can sort out a quick scribble after work but yes you will need to lift the flue up the 1.5" or so (depends on how deep the socket is on your stove) to remove it from the socket. It's going to be trickier with your setup with the pipe entering the breast at an angle but there should be enough movement / flex in it all to allow you to lift it up to remove it from the socket - if not you may have to look at elongating the hole where flue enters the breast then packing with rope / thin fire cement trick again and have a register plate / collar to hide it. Either that or look to part the two flue pipes at the top joint of the 45 bend by carefully twisting and sliding the pipe further into the chimney breast - you'll find that after the first firing the cement / plaster will normally shrink away from the flue just enough to allow the pipe to move backwards and forwards with a little persuasion.

 

[steveo3002]

yeah i wont be able to reach where it goes into the chimney after the fireplace is all built up and its too far up from the soot door

hadnt thought about the pipe having any flex in it , but surley im not the only one with such a situation

i guess i need a good look at some fittings

 

[Wendelspanswick]

yeah i wont be able to reach where it goes into the chimney after the fireplace is all built up and its too far up from the soot door

hadnt thought about the pipe having any flex in it , but surley im not the only one with such a situation

i guess i need a good look at some fittings

What about having the flue exiting horizontally out the back?

The other option is to have a flue access flap in the side of the flue.

 

[steveo3002]

yeah that would help , im not sure i want a rear exit though as it will push the stove out into the room another 8" or so