Any recomendations for a 2K clear

[Morrisman]

I just test spray on a white 5 gallon drum till its right

I thought you were supposed to use the back of the garage door?

Every old garage I have ever been in has spray gun test marks on this back of the door.

 

[brightspark]

I thought you were supposed to use the back of the garage door?

Every old garage I have ever been in has spray gun test marks on this back of the door.

I just have ther outline of what I have painted on the back of the garage door

 

[Dcal]

This arrived a few days ago from Sprayguns direct.
Free postage to NI and a really quick turnaround.

Not ready for it yet and started prepping the bodywork.
All the horizontal panes have issues with the lacquer lifting.
Started on the sunroof to see how bad it was.

Well it's pretty bad.
There is next to no adhesion between the lacquer and the base coat.
Started sanding but rubbed through to the steel on placed where the lacquer was missing before the lacquer was removed so instead just scraped it off with a sharp wood chisel.

I had thought the paint was original but no way and my suspicions were confirmed when a yellow filler coat was uncovered through the base coat where I nicked it.

After sanding the extent of the repair became apparent

This is quickly turning into a far bigger job than I was hopping for.
On the plus side it only took me 20 min to get the sunroof to this stage, but there are a lot of sunroofs worth in the rest of the car.

 

[Daz2012]

You'll sand that a lot quicker with a DA

 

[Dcal]

That is sanded with a DA.

It took 5min to scrape the lacquer off.
You (well I) wouldn't be able to get just the lacquer off with a DA in 5 min.

I'm trying "not" to do a full back to metal respray on this.
Time will tell if I'll be successful.

 

[norsa]

Just be very aware that exposed basecoat is very unstable anywhere that you break through between coats. When you then spray your colour coat on top, it could easily lead to ghosting and wrinkling due to the high solvent content. You will need a good sealer coat on before colour. Ideally in your case, a black sealer.
Nick

 

[Dcal]

Thanks for the heads up @norsa
I'm going to seal it with an epoxy primer then probably a 2k primer.
I was hoping a quick blow over would do the job but it never works out that way. If the paint had been original there is always less chance of problems.
The bodywork on the flat bits is in the best condition so was hoping they needed the least work.
The sides have a few dings and scabs so was needing to fill and prime anyway.
I want to get driving this thing so don't really want to start another big job, but it might come to that yet.

 

[norsa]

Listen. Always better to find all the issues at the primer stage. If its discovered at the basecoat stage, it's just got very expensive.

 

[Dcal]

Started on the rest of the roof.

It looked pretty good and no signs of the lacquer lifting and it sanded OK until I go the wood chisel out.

I was able to scrape off all the lacquer and sand the roof in just over an hour.
It looks like it was painted to repair rust spots around the sunroof.
They have held up well but I will blast the rust spots before priming

I don't like the look of the yellow primer, it reminds me of the single pack hi-build from years ago, but it's well stuck down and we will see how it likes being over-coated at the weekend.
The sides seem OK and I can't lift the lacquer anywhere on them.

As @norsa said, better to find I have a problem now and if this sorts it I will be well pleased.

 

[Nick DV]

I've never used 2K paint or lacquer due to all of the horror stories about health and the environment. How safe is this stuff to use at home if certain precautions are taken?

Nick

 

[norsa]

It would be very expensive to put all safety precautions in place for home use. It's not really a DIY product.

 

[Dcal]

Depends on your location.
I'm lucky in that my garage is detached and about 10m away from my house and there is no other houses near by.

Looking after yourself is relatively easy, air fed mask and clean air when spraying and proper respirator when mixing, sanding and cleaning up, don't forget the throw away coveralls and gloves, but the costs rack up especially if it's for a one off job.

Looking after other people isn't as straight forward, if for example you are spraying in a built in garage in a semi detached house, but there are workarounds that thankfully I haven't had to explore.

I'm certain I would get a better job done for less money if I just took it to a painter but that isn't the point for me.

 

[Dcal]

Looking for a bit more advice lads maybe one for @norsa ?

Getting on with the prep and have a few bit done in epoxy, then 2K primer, guide coated and flatted back with wet 320.
Some areas will need another coat of 2K primer and more flatting but all in all I'm happy with how it's going.

Now my latest issue.
The rear lights have been stuck in with silicone seam sealer.
Whoever did it made a reasonable job of it in that they cleaned the paint before applying what seems to be standard white sanitary silicone.

Some of the silicone had stuck very well and wouldn't scrape off.
I removed it with a wire brush in a die grinder. I tried to direct the crap away from the rest of the car when removing it.
After getting it off I cleaned the area a few times with panel wipe using a clean bit of blue roll every time.

Now my question-
Is this enough or could (will) I get problems with silicon contamination when painting? (I intend to seal it with epoxy primer before any subsequent coats.)
Does cured silicone even present a problem with contamination? (The paint work before cleaning did have that slippy silicone feel)
Do I need to get out more?

I am probably overthinking this but if possible I would prefer to head off any issues before they arise.
Thanks for your help

 

[Dcal]

Yet another issue.

I painted a some trim and plastic last night.
Best paint match I could get was a base with a matt clear.
Real mix of materials but the parts were raw plastic, factory painted plastic, factory painted stainless and factory painted plastic that I had stripped back to raw plastic before plastic priming, epoxy priming, filling, flatting and re-priming with 2K primer.

So far so good and I'm happy with the colour and finish on everything except the mirror.

The mirror seemed to be painted from the factory and as there was writing on it, I didn't want to load it with coats of paint so I just cleaned, flatted it with 500 wet and applied the base coat onto it.
All the plastics are hard. (I have some soft plastics to paint but haven't tried them yet)

After the clear flashed off I noticed a funny crazed effect in the paint which certainly wasn't what I was after.
It was painted at the same time and with the same paints but this only happened to the mirror.

The trim beside the mirror was painted at the same time and and came out fine. (This has stripped, primed, filled etc)
Sorry about the photos, It's the best I can get in the strong morning sunlight.

Anyone know why this happened?

The Alfa Romeo and other writing I want to keep.

So how do I fix it?
Should I just slap a bit of epoxy primer on it and hope for the best?

My first thought is to strip it all off and start again but how?

If there was no detail I would just sand it, but if I do I will lose the writing by the time I have every thing off.

Is there a paint stripper I could get that doesn't harm plastic?

Don't fancy grit blasting but what about soda blasting?

Any other ideas

 

[Burdekin]

I've never used 2K paint or lacquer due to all of the horror stories about health and the environment. How safe is this stuff to use at home if certain precautions are taken?

Nick

It's not cheap to get everything in place to reduce the risks. A proper spray booth and air fed mask is ideal. My workshop I have two big exhaust fans that have filters fitted. Even with the two big exhaust fans it's no where near as good as a down draught spray booth but it will clear the room and I make sure I keep my air fed mask on until the room is properly cleared and safe.

 

[ajlelectronics]

before plastic priming, epoxy priming, filling, flatting and re-priming with 2K primer.

It isn't normal to use plastic primer and then epoxy. You will be compromising the benefits of the epoxy that way.

Your paint issue is unlikely to be anything to do with the substrate though, unless the basecoat pickled first? The solvent load of 2K primer onto decent basecoat should not attack it. I think that I would find a test piece to paint with the same combination and see what happens.

Repair of what you have depends on how deep the damage is. If it is only in the lacquer, you can flat back and start again. If it goes all the way into the factory finish, then it may be more difficult. In that case I would flat back as far as possible then epoxy prime it to seal it. Then repaint as normal.

 

[Dcal]

Thanks @ajlelectronics
The parts that were primed were all fine.
On the part I had an issue with, I applied base coat directly on top of the existing flatted factory paint (I think it was painted but I purposely didn't sand too much to make sure I didn't expose the plastic so could be wrong)
I didn't see any issues with the base coat or the lacqure until about half an hour after the last coat of lacqure was applied.
The matt lacqure is odd stuff it looks like wall paper paste in the tin but sprays fine.

It's a pretty subtle effect and might flat out but my gut instinct is to take it all off and start again.

We will have to agree to disagree on the plastic primer and epoxy.
My understanding of painting plastics is the plastic primer is really just an adhesion promoter and is designed to soften the plastic (for a short time) so that the primer filler or top coat can then adhered well to the plastic.

I think the epoxy will stick better to plastic if the plastic primer is used first but it's a minefield as there are so many plastic out there.
@norsa enlightened me on this and spot priming plastic repairs which is why I didn't want to cut through to the plastic.
I tend to agree with him and more so after reading up on it a bit more.
Having said that if it flakes off I'd be happy to eat my hat.

 

[Morrisman]

Depends on your location.
I'm lucky in that my garage is detached and about 10m away from my house and there is no other houses near by.

Looking after yourself is relatively easy, air fed mask and clean air when spraying and proper respirator when mixing, sanding and cleaning up, don't forget the throw away coveralls and gloves, but the costs rack up especially if it's for a one off job.

Looking after other people isn't as straight forward, if for example you are spraying in a built in garage in a semi detached house, but there are workarounds that thankfully I haven't had to explore.

I'm certain I would get a better job done for less money if I just took it to a painter but that isn't the point for me.

I sprayed 2k primer last week, left the garage doors shut to stop it spreading across the gardens. I have an organic mask that I can’t even smell the paint through, bought from the shop I got the paint, recommended by them.

I use hvlp spray gun at about 20 psi and there is hardly any spray dust or overspray. Not like the old days of everything in the garage being covered in the stuff, I just have a patch on the floor where it settles.

Top coat is going to be Dulux Weathershield Exterior Satin Black. I’m going for a ‘used and abused’ look, but not the silly fake patina and rust that people go for.

 

[Dcal]

Nice job @Morrisman
No doubt someone will be along to tell you you will be dead in the morning but a good mask with new, appropriate filters works well for short periods of time and we are all grown ups here, by and large working in a diy environment and can make our own decisions.

Curious as to why you are using Weathershield for a top coat?
I would worry about having issues with it if you want a change or if repairing it or re-coating it with something else.
There are lots of options to get a matt and / or textured and / or wrinkled finish using well tried paints that you know will last, but each to their own.

Looking forward to you progressing your build.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Nice job @Morrisman
No doubt someone will be along to tell you you will be dead in the morning but a good mask with new, appropriate filters works well for short periods of time and we are all grown ups here, by and large working in a diy environment and can make our own decisions.
.

Certainly we should make our own decisions, there is nobody who despises nannies more than me. That having been said, they ought to be informed decisions. There is this blanket "don't do it" from the nannies without explanation...

The big problem with negative pressure masks is the seal. It is vital that the seal is perfect but most faces can be a bit craggy even without the fashionable tramp / slept in a hedge look of facial hair. That means that the seal may be less than perfect and you need to be aware that isocyanate poisoning becomes a possibility. It creeps up on you, the damage doesn't show up like something like arceye but lies in wait to strike, by which time it is too late. Your health and always your choice, but at least understand the dangers.