Yeah, I'd already "removed" the ball when I stuck a slot in it with the angle grinder. I then flattened it off before trying to drill it. Just wasn't having any of it.I'm sure you've thought of this, but you aren't trying to drill the ball itself with the chisel point of the drill are you? The balls will obviously be hardened.
I fitted a 2005 on the X, was very tempted with a 3205 on the y but cost drove me to the 2505 in the end.
Although it's "smooth" there is a significant amount of "staining" on the pivot section.
Any suggestions on how best to bring it back to looking nice _without_ affecting what is a reasonable precision surface?
So, an evening of fun later and I have this.
Now I didn't _intend_ to trial fit it...but the nut was on the shaft the wrong way anyway so...
Now I do need to do a bit of cleanup still, when I take the knee off I'll be getting the powerfile out and cleaning the channel up, there are casting lumps that make absolutely no difference normally but I'm _so_ close on clearance that it's hitting and it causes problems.
Nothing more than a cleanup though, I'm not removing any more than the lumps and bumps. Equally I need to take a bit more off the bottom still.
I thought I could get away with little more than a cleanup. C'est la vie.Mine wasn't central either. I didnt have to remove much material to get the ball nut carrier in, but I'm glad I'd bought the die grinder!
I can however build a test rig (if I can find my code I wrote for the arduino when I played with it before) to drive the motor and try it out properly.
I'm not 100% certain mine is 1968. I also don't know if there are shims in my Z axis guide or not, haven't had it apart yet.Certainly no shims in there. Mine is a 1966 so obviously changed not long after if yours is a '68 and has them.
 I'd previously assumed it to be a '65 and the numbers in the big list of serials to be "start of year" but then I ran into someone with one marked 75-149xxx and the big list of serials has 1974......145644 and 1975......150732. So the list number must be *end* of year and so my 117601 must be a 1966 (big list says 1966......118490).
I'm not 100% certain mine is 1968. I also don't know if there are shims in my Z axis guide or not, haven't had it apart yet.
Mine isn't like that, it has two locking bolts, which I assume are bigger versions of the saddle one which I made a replacement for. They have short handles on them to lock the Z. To be honest, I don't think that there is a huge amount of wear in it.What is the serial?
You can easily tell by looking at the front of it. If it has this kind of style bolts with a castle type ring round the cap screw then it has the adjusters in.
View attachment 292151
I'm not entirely sure however how it actually adjusts, if it has shims in or just varies how tight the rear strips are clamped on.
If the rear strips are attached with _just_ cap screw bolts (like mine) then it has no adjusters and you'd have to take material off the mounting face of the rear strips to tighten it up. Although actually I think it would probably be better to add a turcite strip and if need be add some shims. It would of course depend on where the wear was.
Mine isn't like that, it has two locking bolts, which I assume are bigger versions of the saddle one which I made a replacement for. They have short handles on them to lock the Z. To be honest, I don't think that there is a huge amount of wear in it.