Some dowork opposite to whatRichard advocates. 70% is 30% type of thingSome vague memory of rtech cleaning function dial being wired the wrong way, anyone ?
If your using a pedal, turn up your peak current to about double what you need for the metal your welding, rough guide 40 amps per mil. So in your case about 90 amps. When you hit the pedal full tilt your pool should form quickly, then as soon as it starts to form, back off, add rod and go fast. Hence the amount of advice suggesting starting on thicker metal. Before adding rod try just to walk a pool along the metal, if your not blowing holes, start adding rod. Keep the end of the rod in the gas coverage, but away from the tungsten.I have never TIG welded aluminium before and I am trying to learn myself.
One thing the youtube videos etc do not cover clear enough is the welder settings.
For starting off as a general baseline for thin aluminium sheet (1.2mm) what settings should I use first?
View attachment 391280
I am confused about the following:
Pulse frequency
Clean area width
Current settings although using a pedal for alu may make this machine setting obsolete
Having severe difficulty getting any sort of a alu puddle to form. Can never see it.
Grey tungsten
Only have a brass or mild steel wire brush. Reading up I think I need stainless?
The filler rod I bought are aluminium 5356 1mm from ebay
Another dabbler here - I just had a look at the manual (such as it is )
'Clean Area Width' *is* the balance control - no indication of which way is cleaning, and which is penetration though. Your issues *could* stem from this being set badly - there doesn't seem to be any indication of cleaning effect in your pictures - Have a read of the first few posts in Richard's guide & try somewhere around 30% and somewhere around 70% to figure out whether it reads %EP or %EN.
The pulse setting only works for DC TIG. It's possible that the pulse frequency control adjusts the AC frequency, but not clear from the manual - you will be able to hear whether it makes any difference very easily. If it's adjustable, then Richard's guide covers this too.
Another vote for getting something a bit thicker that you *know* is aluminium. IMHO it doesn't need to be super-duper clean to be able to make puddles and chase them around.
Probably means that the tungsten is dirty (or split).The arc at the 1.6mm grey tungsten was going up the side of it.
I’d of waited till he answered my question before going through all that Zep.check your plate is not sitting on wood or any similar material , your gas is sufficient and is pure argon not a mig mixed gas , are you seeing a white area either side of the weld you can vary this with arc balance
zirconiated " white" tungsten is the preffered tungsten , try another lens configuration / bore id say a no 8 with gas lens , turbulence can cause havoc and some of the plain ceramics dont work ! try dialing in the flow with the other hand while forming a run without filler and see if you can find a sweet spot id say 10>15 lpm how far is your tungsten stickout id say around
6 to 8 mm does it stay shiny / slightly balled after finish of weld ? , angle torch slightly forward and move in a forward motion not dragging , are you on AC current ?with hf always on ?
when you hit the pedal initialy the white area should be seen forming thats the hf scarfing off the oxide layer. inside this with enough amps a shiney puddle is forming ! when it starts to move add a dab of filler at the front edge move a bit and repeat watch how mutch is building up not too mutch youl touch the tungsten aim to read the pool ,sinking youl see it undercutting at the edges add enough filler to leave a build up just above flush keep the width constant things will speed up as the job soaks in the heat so you can back off on the pedal as needed paticulary nearing the edge of the plates , keep the filler within the gas cover of the lens not so close after dabbing that it balls up and jumps onto the tungsten , try a fatter wire 2.4 mm
while your learning be easier to master the feeding method. wipe filler with wire wool before use wear clean gloves , check torch/ gauge connections for leaks does flow meter bead settle to bottom after post weld gas cycle " or float slightly all the time = leak "
surface contaminants on both side are a no no cleanliness is next to Inverness as we say here
been doing it 45 years and certified Caa welder so i hope this helps you
I’d of waited till he answered my question before going through all that Zep.
Looking at the odd occasion where he has melted that aluminum, you can see it’s been melted under the oxide layer and not broken through it.
Unless he’s welding in 99% DCEN, I reckon he can’t get through it because it’s anodized but it would actually be nice if @JOEPRO could shed some light on it.
im sure you remember when you started out ! its good to get some first class advice from welders like "us"
no intentions of trying to upstage your game ,with my cats blacker than yours stuff
I’d of waited till he answered my question before going through all that Zep.
Looking at the odd occasion where he has melted that aluminum, you can see it’s been melted under the oxide layer and not broken through it.
Unless he’s welding in 99% DCEN, I reckon he can’t get through it because it’s anodized but it would actually be nice if @JOEPRO could shed some light on it.
The grade sounds fine. It’s a cold rolled workable very low alloyed grade and you shouldn’t have a problem getting a pool going on that.Sorry all haven't got back to this yet. I am mig welding rust repairs on my car at the moment.
I appreciate the feedback and I will revert on all assistance and queries in a week or so. As for the aluminium I bought it from ebay.
Checking again it calls it 1050H14 Grade aluminium. Maybe that's not weldable and maybe hopefully the cause of my issues(?)
I'd happily buy a small section from any member willing to post known pure weldable alu sheet. Or I'll ring a few places and see if they can sell me a small enough sheet of whatever grade is required.