Actual rubberised undercoating for cars?

[Popcorn]

I've always used Schultz with wax in it, so it doesn't dry so never cracks.

 

[Farside]

I've always used Schultz with wax in it, so it doesn't dry so never cracks.

 

[minimutly]

the white stuff land rover uses is amazing , sort of like seam sealer only tougher , so I know what your after ,,, trouble is land rover dont use enough of it , so dont scrimp when you do find the right stuff.

Agree, first came across it on Rover 200s, really good stuff. Burns well though...

 

[Jack_K]

Wurth have a couple of options. I think I worked out who the manufacturer was and it is available in the UK, I just can't remember who.

 

[charlysays]

It's good stuff , my 1997 w202 has it and to be fair, rust at risk of a hole is still easily visible under it.
As you said the rust starts somewhere and overall it's still holding up well on mine after 270k miles.
I think if you bare metalled it, applied two decent coats of a high zinc self etching primer like woco unidox or bilt hamber electrox then finished it with whatever factory spray sealer they used at MB and other 90s car makers, you'd have something which would easily exceed the original coating because if it got a puncture in the rubberised coating the high zinc coating electrically bonded to the substrate would protect for years and prevent spread of rust.
These primers adhere pretty well to properly prepped steel, can't scratch them off but they are a bit soft which the spray sealer would take care of.

The etch coat on old mercs isn't the best. If MB had had the PSA groups etch coating (ever seen old pug 306s driving around with bare metal scrapes which didn't rust for years) and their own spray sealer it would've been awesome.

 

[Smallfry]

The original factory stuff is a sprayed polyurethane rubber. It is elastic and not at all like Shutz or stonechip.

It is really, really difficult to remove other than burning. Normally only compromised by serious chipping or abrasion, but this has normally happened to an area alongside it, or careless jacking, causing rust to spread underneath it, which it will, and rust will push off any coating when conditions are right.

Nearest thing you can get is spray sealer, which needs a reassuringly expensive applicator gun.

 

[marlinspike]

The 3M schutz is quite cheap at Metalflake at the moment. £7.73 a litre.

3M08861 - 3m 08861 Body Schutz Coating Underbody Coating Textured Blac

Welcome to Metalflake: the home of automotive refinishing supplies on the web. With over 6,000 products available to buy via this website, no one else offers the level of quality and choice and our prices just can’t be beaten.

metalflake.com

 

[Smallfry]

I did see this stuff on FBM. Looks very similar to the real thing. https://www.facebook.com/reel/1559096118532790

Might be able to shoot this through a clean schutz gun. I would give it a go myself, but have nothing to try it on ATM

 

[RWD3M]

Which if any of these products might also be suitable for a truck bed?

That's what the Raptor was originally intended for I believe.

 

[Screwdriver]

That's what the Raptor was originally intended for I believe.

Name rings a bell for lining a bed but apart from a mention, no one is saying much else about it. How easy it may be applied, if it can or should be used as an underbody protection and whether "we" think it's any good!

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Custom fibreglass liner might be a pretty cool project?

 

[marlinspike]

Name rings a bell for lining a bed but apart from a mention, no one is saying much else about it. How easy it may be applied, if it can or should be used as an underbody protection and whether "we" think it's any good!

I think it's meant primarily as truck bed liner paint, ie sets very hard. I've not heard of it used underbody, presumably because it would chip and be prone to rust eventually because you wouldn't notice it needs touching in. From what I recall it's a product where preparation is key to getting a good result.

 

[Smallfry]

FWIW I don't rate Raptor. Chips too easily for my liking, especially on edges.

Does no one do a load liner for it ? Usually made of HDPE.

 

[marlinspike]

Not to derail the thread, but is Jotun Hardtop essentially the same kind of product as Raptor? ie very hard top coat paint, not meant for panels but good for unseen places where you don't need a really nice finish.

 

[RWD3M]

Name rings a bell for lining a bed but apart from a mention, no one is saying much else about it. How easy it may be applied, if it can or should be used as an underbody protection and whether "we" think it's any good!

These boys seem to rate it :

WELCOME - RETROPOWER

WE BRING DREAMS TO LIFE, NO MATTER HOW AMBITIOUS. ONE-OFF CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION SYSTEMS. FULLY BESPOKE BODY SHELLS IN METAL OR COMPOSITE. ENGINES BUILT FOR YOUR NEEDS. EVERY DETAIL IS DESIGNED AND BUILT EXCLUSIVELY JUST FOR YOU. Interiors blend individual style with modern refinements, creating...

retropower.co.uk

 

[Dcal]

Not to derail the thread, but is Jotun Hardtop essentially the same kind of product as Raptor? ie very hard top coat paint, not meant for panels but good for unseen places where you don't need a really nice finish.

Jotun hard top is a 2 pack polyurethane top coat. It's just paint but a pretty good one.

It's an industrial paint so designed for airless spray but it goes on nicely with conventional spray guns.

If you want a really tough paint there are versions available with glass flake.

 

[Roger440]

I know what the OP is looking for, but ive never been able to find it.

I use the 3m 08800 which is properly tough. However, as it is truly bonkers money, one needs to be choosy where you use it. Essentially i use it on areas that are in the direct line of fire from road debris..

On the Atlas, i did jotun 90 first, mainly as the underneath was heavily pitted, applied 08800 to the prime areas, then second coat of Jotun 90.

On my non daily drivers i prefer that as i can easily see if the surface becomes compromised.

On my ute (daily drive) (pic below) most of the underside is factory primer. Jotun 90 wont stick to this without significant abrasion which as its a sound coating (mostly) i dont want to do. So in this case, 08800 straight on to the cleaned factory surface, then the whole lot with dinitrol 4941.

Ive had 08800 on cars for over 10 years. It just doesnt let go and remains flexible, not quite rubbery like the OE coating discussed, but seems equally resilient.

I also use 08800 as a brush applied seam sealer. Works better than any single pack seam sealer. Never cracks. 2 bags will normally do a whole underside.

Dont forget 08800 has isocyanates in it.