I have a knackered motor if you need a motor fan housing.The replacement pump arrived today its in very nice condition and an original ABAC pump. I gave it a clean and refilled it with fresh oil
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2011 pump on the right
I'll be keeping the original pump (less the damaged pulley) for future use if I ever need it.
I'm spraying the other motor and will put that back on with the belt guards on Saturday.
I have a new pressure gauge coming in post any day now and I'll start the wiring installation on Saturday.
The original control board has been stripped down for respraying before I mount it on my garage wall.
Thank you for offering!I have a knackered motor if you need a motor fan housing.
Perhaps an auto drain valve would be good especially as you are having it up in the loftI did also put an endoscope into this tandem compressor tank.
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It is in decent condition inside especially for a 2007. Rust on the bottom where water would collect which is normal. There is still mostly silver / clean metal in the rest of the tank which is great to see.
It's actually got less rust than the 200L SIP which is less than 2 years old and I bought used a couple months back:
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The SIP was not drained regularly.
This tandem compressor was drained regular and had very little use going by tank condition and the pump bores still having the factory cross hatching
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Perhaps an auto drain valve would be good especially as you are having it up in the loft
When you come to replace the switch, don't go for any one old. You want one what has two adjustments for the pressure. One that sets the turn off, and one which is for differential pressure (difference between turn off pressure and turn on pressure, so effectively sets your turn on pressure where as a single adjustment switch will have a FIXED differential pressure and henced fixed turn on pressure).First real run after metal pipes connected. I straightened the original 14mm copper lines. One of them needed to be cut and flared to suit a nut which came with the replacement pump.
The replacement pump had a cooler on the outlet side. And the head had a different outlet fitting. Not treaded just a plain square port. Hence why I had to cut and flare one of the original lines to suit the cooler.
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The left pump which had the head work is working just fine. Pumping away up to 150psi.
The right side was working OK too until it wasn't!
After the first full charge up and cut off at 150psi. (Maybe a little high for my liking) there were a number of air leaks. A massive one from the switch itself which I fiddled with and got it to stop but think it will be best to replace the switch assembly they are relatively cheap online. Like £10 or a little more.
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The second and biggest issue now is there is air feeding back through the right pump. It is coming out of the oil dipstick constant even when turned off. I think this existing check valve is bad on the tank:
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So I'll order a switch assembly and a valve or valve repair kit and see how it goes after that.
All in all that was alot of work making the wall bracket and rewiring etc. But once these last issues are sorted it will be a hell of an air supply for my garage looking forward to putting it to work.
Edit- I just realised the switch is likely AOK and only leaking a small amount now because of the check valve also!
When you come to replace the switch, don't go for any one old. You want one what has two adjustments for the pressure. One that sets the turn off, and one which is for differential pressure (difference between turn off pressure and turn on pressure, so effectively sets your turn on pressure where as a single adjustment switch will have a FIXED differential pressure and henced fixed turn on pressure).
I run an ABAC in parallel with another cheaper compressor which has a single adjustment pressure switch and it was useless. I switched the pressure switch to a genuine ABAC one with the two adjustments and it was fantastic.
Can you tell what the brass one is with the slot for a screwdriver?It's hard to tell on the original switch front but from what I can see it has one adjustment on top
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I did remove the check valve and noticed dirt + a wear ring on it
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I figured nothing to lose to wet sand it flat again and see.
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It does appear to have made it better which helps confirm the diagnosis.
I will order 2x new valves later and maybe if I'm lucky I can just swap the innards over. Seems hard to find just the ABAC repair kit.
Can you tell what the brass one is with the slot for a screwdriver?
I bought an ABAC cheap because it had a broken pulley. I cut the middle out of the pulley and fitted the centre of an alloy spoked car wheel rim. Put screws through the bottom of the V into each spoke then ground the heads off. The spokes create enough cooling air. That was around 10 years back and it is still working fine.Well I had bad news this morning- one of the 2x pumps had forking fell off my workbench during the night
The large pulley was bent on it. The aluminium pulley / flywheel. Oil was everywhere too it did a real number on its way down as the oil tray went with it.
They were sitting on rubber blocks. It's my fault- surprised it fell but obviously wasn't secure enough.
The pulley is banjaxed needs replaced and they are hard to find at the moment for any less than £100+ post.
There is a place in Ireland showing stock and cheaper I'll double check on Monday. Its a large tool place which I wanted to visit anyway.
What I did find when searching for about an hour was someone selling a good used 2011 year complete B3800 ABAC pump assembly. It included the correct diameter flywheel etc he measured it for me.
I think for now it is best that I use the new oil on this newer matching replacement pump and install that. It's not a total loss as I'll keep the other pump body as a spare for future. It is fine apart from a flywheel. Indeed I could likely stick it on ebay and get some £ back.
The other used pump was a fair price so I bought it.
What do you do- s#it happens. Furious with myself for that happening but I'll keep going and look on the brightside I have a spare pump now
I'd be surprised if that pressure switch is original if it doesn't have differential pressure adjustment. Surely an ABAC of that price range would (mine, the single version of you compressor, did). I would highly recommend a pressure switch with that capability.That is just the cap fixing point. Not an adjustment.
I have drained the air again. And removed and measured one of the NRV assemblies. I'm ordering new Nuaire ones. Doing both as the other side is likely original too.
I will remove the complete switch now shorty and measure the intake port before making sure I order a correct one. I see new Nuaire ones at the below site
NEMA Single Phase Pressure Switch 3/8
Original NE-MA Pressure Switch, 12 Bar, 16A, IP54, Made in Italywww.compressorshop.co.uk
Edit I ordered the new Nuaire brand non return valves in the correct size for my compressor. I will replace both of them first.
It belive my original pressure switch may be OK this is the NRV leaking back into it. And if it is still leaking after that then I will buy a new one. Not trying to save £ just that if the original part is not broken then I'd rather it stayed put VS an ebay item going on there.
I'd be surprised if that pressure switch is original if it doesn't have differential pressure adjustment. Surely an ABAC of that price range would (mine, the single version of you compressor, did). I would highly recommend a pressure switch with that capability.
realy pushing the boat out thereAlso noticed with these off and side by side they are not matching. So it's had some work on these before in the past.
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In any case there is a pair of genuine Nuaire valves coming in the post in a few days. Didn't want to save a few £ on amazon etc got the genuine ones.