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Thanks for the useful link.
- Thread starter zardoz
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Thanks for the useful link.
zardoz
Old school Socialist
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Sorted the engine out on the smaller Makita Robin genny, it now works ok. It needed a re seat on the valves really, but as i couldnt figure out if the non exsistance of a gap on the valves was how it was meant to be and could find no litterature to help me, i thought "****** it" and left it after giving the head and piston a good clean (many pits, BTW)
So the engine works fine, but the generator doesnt seem to be working properly. Admittedly i have only tried the 12vDC outputs, as i couldnt find my lights with a yellow round plug to try in it. Anyway i ficked the on/off switch and it didnt seem to make any difference to the 12v side. Whether it was off or on all i got showing on my multimeter was between 0.01 and 0.25 volts. ??
So the engine works fine, but the generator doesnt seem to be working properly. Admittedly i have only tried the 12vDC outputs, as i couldnt find my lights with a yellow round plug to try in it. Anyway i ficked the on/off switch and it didnt seem to make any difference to the 12v side. Whether it was off or on all i got showing on my multimeter was between 0.01 and 0.25 volts. ??
normspanners
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the lack of valve clearance ( which I quess about 10 thou) will be valve recession usually caused by the crap fuel nowadays
Is there a large cap in the generator end cover, they are sometimes the cause of gennys not kicking in.
Is there a large cap in the generator end cover, they are sometimes the cause of gennys not kicking in.
octo0072000
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you may need to connect a battery to it before it works
zardoz
Old school Socialist
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This is a pic of the genny end cover off. I belive the big green thing is a resistor ? (although i freely admit to knowing next to nothing on this score. It has 60W 200 Ohms printed on it ?) The rest of the elctrical gubbins is incased in some brittle hard stuff.
Below that is a pic of the sort of stuff i had blocking my petrol tap. i have now unblocked it 3 times!
the snooper
getting older by the day
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After you have checked every thing else (inc the windings & trying to flash it) if it still does not work then its the AVR.
They can be tested but its unlikely you will have the specs to do so.
I would presume the fuse went on site and no one had one
I don't ya just love bodges like that, there is a reason for the fuse and then along comes some muppet who decides he knows better...
I repaired a road roller at work last week that had kept blowing the 20A fuse so they'd stuck a staple from a cardboard box in it's place, that worked for about 15 mins then smoke started pouring out of the machine.
The original fault was a short on the beacon circuit, they'd removed the beacon and left the 2 wires flapping about un-insulated... hence the fuse kept blowing.
I had to remove the loom, strip it, repair the 7 slightly damages wires with heat-shrink, replace 6 totally knackered wires (one was just the copper, no cover left at all) replace the melted connector for the beacon and refit it all.
A simple problem transformed into an expensive repair
