60's style Gasser Willys build

[langy]

Well been patiently waiting for rotating parts to return from balancing, well the wait is over i get them back in the morning
Been keeping busy though attending to some of the small jobs, My new tin of Glyptal turned up so I got the inside of the block painted, Also managed to squirt a bit of gold flake on the oil pump.










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[Robotstar5]

It's going to be a "looker" as well as a "goer"

What colour are you painting the con rods?

 

[langy]

It's going to be a "looker" as well as a "goer"

What colour are you painting the con rods?

They are polished

 

[Wallace]

They are polished

Keeping all your best bling in a very ornate box!

 

[langy]

Starting to think someone upstairs don't like me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got crank back and fitted bearings, open up gasket set and found no rear main seals FFS !!!!

 

[squazy84]

you and me both, i painted all my axle and springs and running gear in leclar macrofan 2k gloss black only to have one of the freshly painted springs fall over and get ruined,bad day, can i ask what type of paint is that you have on the insides of the casting? it looks like the stuff i used to see on 1950s castings internally

 

[langy]

you and me both, i painted all my axle and springs and running gear in leclar macrofan 2k gloss black only to have one of the freshly painted springs fall over and get ruined,bad day, can i ask what type of paint is that you have on the insides of the casting? it looks like the stuff i used to see on 1950s castings internally

Paint is Glyptal 1201

 

[aametalmaster]

Looks like a cool project and nice work so far. I am building a '64 Ford Fairlane gasser as its been ongoing for the last 24 years...Bob

 

[langy]

Looks like a cool project and nice work so far. I am building a '64 Ford Fairlane gasser as its been ongoing for the last 24 years...Bob

Got any pics Bob ?, I had a 65 Falcon gasser in the 80's with a blown 427 ford.

 

[langy]

Got some brilliant news this morning my heads are done and gonna be shipped tomorrow, fingers crossed all will go smoothly.

In the meantime the rear main oil seals arrived from Shaun (thanks mate) so assembly was on this weekends agenda, I thought I would get the crank, pistons & rods in the block and degree the cam in but it was 130 degrees inside so rolled it outside, even outside the spanners were getting so hot you couldn't hold them !!!
First job was to gap all the rings which didn't take much time at all, then onto fitting the piston pins in the rods, The rods were setup for pressed pin or full floating, mine are full floating and a little tight so I popped to the machine shop and honed them out slightly to give .0008" clearance, the pins are located by 2 spirolocks either side, they are pesky little things to get in and even worse to get back out again !!!























Next job was to get the roller cam in and timing gears fitted so I could get the cam dialed in with a degree wheel, I'm using a hydraulic roller cam so had to make a cam button to keep the cam in the same place in the block, I gave it .060" clearance
For those that don't know a normal flat tappet cam is ground with a slight angle on the lobes which keeps the cam in the block and stops it walking forward, a roller cam is ground flat so needs a can button to keep it in place.
I'm using a Comp Cams Magnum true roller timing set, nicely made set.







I had already machined double keyways into the crank so all that was needed was to mod the oil slinger to slide over both of the keyways.









Virtually complete except for the heads which hopefully will get here sometime next week.





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[anjum]

That looks too nice to put in a car..........well..... in your car's case it's different!!

 

[langy]

I had someone ask on another forum what degreeing a cam in was, thought I would post my reply here too, might help somebody


Degreeing means you are making sure the camshaft's position in the motor matches that of the crank, then their rotation is synchronized.

This is the only way you will know if the rise and fall of the pistons properly matches the opening and closing of the valves, so the engine will run correctly. A few degrees of misalignment will really make a huge difference.

If we lived in a perfect world you would just need to line up the dots on the timing sprockets and the cam would be degreed. Unfortunately we are dealing with 4 different parts all which have their own manufactoring tolerances namely the crank, the cam, the chain & the gears so it can throw off alignment. Unless you degree the cam you will never really know if they are where they should be. Its a fairly easy job to do but will take time to do correctly, You will need a piston stop, a dial indicator, a pointer (usually a bit of welding rod, a degree wheel, a pencil & paper for your readings, your cam card that came with your cam, and some sort of a stand for the dial indicator.

One thing to remember when dialing in a cam is if you make a mistake and rotate the motor past the point to take a reading,don't turn back the rotation. If you was to any slack in the chain or slack in the gears will cause an error. If you pass the the point, just carry on turning the motor in the normal direction until you come back to the original point.

There is a couple of ways of advancing or retarding your cam, Performance timing chain sets have the lower crank sprocket machined with three or more keyways, this allows you to advance or retard the cam. Another 2 popular methods are by using offset keys and also eccentric bushings or vernier timing wheels.

I was gonna do a small video but there is an excellent video here on youtube that will talk you through it, this guy talks plain and you should be able to follow it easily http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VwsbEg7Z4I


Heres a few pics of when I did mine, you should get the general idea, I made an adjustable long lifter for mine from a piece of old steering shaft but some people use an old lifter with a bit of round bar welded to it, does the same job

 

[langy]

While awaiting the arrival of my heads I amused myself making a Pro light, I didn't really want one but after this engne costing what it has I think a warning device was a good idea.
I'm amazed by the prices of these things $50 up to hundreds !!! Made mine from scrap stainless from my scrap bin, add an old bulb holder and I got a Pro light for free !!!








Its certainly bright !!!






Gonna do the same with the adjustable shift light next.

 

[Robotstar5]

Looks nice but what does a pro light indicate?

 

[langy]

Looks nice but what does a pro light indicate?

They are usually either adjustable shift light or a Warning light for oil pressure, temp etc etc, basically a big light you can't miss !!!

 

[Robotstar5]

They are usually either adjustable shift light or a Warning light for oil pressure, temp etc etc, basically a big light you can't miss !!!

Looks a lot better than the old indicator repeater the rally cars used to have screwed to the dashboard for oil pressure!

 

[langy]

Looks a lot better than the old indicator repeater the rally cars used to have screwed to the dashboard for oil pressure!

Yeah your not wrong They are usually mounted on the Tach as its in your line of sight.

 

[octo0072000]

i must have been posh then used mini front indicator lamps with 5watt bulbs instead of 21watts they were a bit too bright at night on the 12 car rallying

 

[langy]

Been amusing myself sorting all those pesky little jobs while I await my heads, one job thats been bugging me is the edge of the doors where the windows are, been looking for a rubber trim for ages, found a few close ones but no cigar until I saw one in the Baines Rubber catalogue, sent for 4 metres and it fits absolutely spot on !!! Even fits nice around the tight corners, I stuck it place here and there with some contact adhesive.

 

[langy]

Changed my prop loop, I had a flat bar type that was like a big oval but it looked a bit crappy, So made a bolt in jobbie, It looks heavy but its not as a lot of it is 3/32 plate.