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brewdexta
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Agroshield
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It would work with an open-ended Morse 3-2 reducer sleeve as the drawbar could pass through it.
I think it might also work with a 30 taper to 2 Morse adaptor - 30 taper is usually 1/2" or M12 so the M10 drawbar should go through.
brewdexta
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Correction, I read that it was Int30 but checking today and it looks like mt3. It seems there were made in either. I'm pretty sure I have an mt3 to mt2 sleeve somewhere.
I did get to finish throwing paraffin over the Triumph. Looks a bit better now. The thick oil has done its job but still a bit of rust to sort out. The leadscrew was minging. Gearbox oil is down. I think that's why Colchester called them Triumph, they hold oil about as well as old British bikes
Today I have plumbing in the daughters new ensuite to continue but hope to get time to look at the M1 VFD later.
I did get to finish throwing paraffin over the Triumph. Looks a bit better now. The thick oil has done its job but still a bit of rust to sort out. The leadscrew was minging. Gearbox oil is down. I think that's why Colchester called them Triumph, they hold oil about as well as old British bikes
Today I have plumbing in the daughters new ensuite to continue but hope to get time to look at the M1 VFD later.
addjunkie
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Thats a nice looking lathe!Correction, I read that it was Int30 but checking today and it looks like mt3. It seems there were made in either. I'm pretty sure I have an mt3 to mt2 sleeve somewhere.
View attachment 384637
I did get to finish throwing paraffin over the Triumph. Looks a bit better now. The thick oil has done its job but still a bit of rust to sort out. The leadscrew was minging. Gearbox oil is down. I think that's why Colchester called them Triumph, they hold oil about as well as old British bikes
View attachment 384636
Today I have plumbing in the daughters new ensuite to continue but hope to get time to look at the M1 VFD later.
brewdexta
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You should have seen it after I restored it, I saved my works from selling it to a dealer as the gearbox was broken. I fixed that then got carried away..
brewdexta
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I got the VFD on the M1 active again, it's not too happy though. At first it worked, no faults, so as the knuckle head was already on and the vice was next to it, I thought I would give it a go in that for now on a spare bit of threaded rod.
I spent a while setting it up, got it looking good, pressed go, and sod all. Loads of numbers on the VFD.
This is better in a way as a hard fault is much easier to track than a partial issue. Its repeatable too, even better, I hate intermittent faults.
So far cutting these slots as made me clean up two mills and a lathe, make 2 drawbars and hopefully fix the M1, not bad
DIY and the Sunday evening pub visit coming at 6 curtailed play for today.
I'll take the knuckle head off tomorrow. So next time it will be in the horizontal arbour.
I spent a while setting it up, got it looking good, pressed go, and sod all. Loads of numbers on the VFD.
This is better in a way as a hard fault is much easier to track than a partial issue. Its repeatable too, even better, I hate intermittent faults.
So far cutting these slots as made me clean up two mills and a lathe, make 2 drawbars and hopefully fix the M1, not bad
DIY and the Sunday evening pub visit coming at 6 curtailed play for today.
I'll take the knuckle head off tomorrow. So next time it will be in the horizontal arbour.
brewdexta
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A big of an update on this. Two things, first I've bought a new motor and VFD for the Tom Senior M1, I may have mentioned this elsewhere. It also means I needed a new motor plate to elevate the bigger motor and. provide belt tension adjustment. These arrived a while ago and have been kicking around the office so took them into the workshop to prep for fitting.
It's a cold plate VFD, I gate noisy fans, so I bought a nice 6mm aluminium plate, a length of heatsink and some thermal paste. The steel plate for the motor is on the right.
I'll also give this lot some TLC, it was all shiny when I first renovated it.
While in RDG tools the other day, I bought a straight shank slitting saw arbour to try and remove the M1 from the equation as I also need to get the new hydraulic ram completed so i can use the breach to cut a keyway in the motor pulley.
So hopefully, after this weekend, I should have slots cut in the grub screws and can continue the Wadkin saw renovation.
It's a cold plate VFD, I gate noisy fans, so I bought a nice 6mm aluminium plate, a length of heatsink and some thermal paste. The steel plate for the motor is on the right.
I'll also give this lot some TLC, it was all shiny when I first renovated it.
While in RDG tools the other day, I bought a straight shank slitting saw arbour to try and remove the M1 from the equation as I also need to get the new hydraulic ram completed so i can use the breach to cut a keyway in the motor pulley.
So hopefully, after this weekend, I should have slots cut in the grub screws and can continue the Wadkin saw renovation.
RobCox
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Probably for the best. On a thin slitting saw with a key if anything jams it will explode. Without the key you've got a fraction of a second to stop the feed.
not done it yet
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I’m not particularly interested in RDG stuff (there are undoubtedly other suppliers ) they sell arbors (in imperial or metric) to suit several saw sizes.
Here is the ad: https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/SLITTING-SAW-ARBOUR-2-MORSE-TAPER-699.html
I would not recommend messing around trying to remove 0.13mm off the diameter of an arbor.
Edited again: What are these grub screws? Soft bolts cut down or hardened grub screws? The slitting saw will not last long if cutting hardened items.
Here is the ad: https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/SLITTING-SAW-ARBOUR-2-MORSE-TAPER-699.html
I would not recommend messing around trying to remove 0.13mm off the diameter of an arbor.
Edited again: What are these grub screws? Soft bolts cut down or hardened grub screws? The slitting saw will not last long if cutting hardened items.
brewdexta
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So, finally, after a lot of sodding about, I've cut the slots. To summarise, I couldn't use the Tom Senior Light Vertical because its a bit fast. I couldn't use the Tom Senior M1 as the motor/VFD was FUBAR and although I'm on with replacing it, I need to cut a keyway in a cast iron pully and my fly press isn't up to broaching it, it struggled with an aluminium pulley I broached a while ago. So I'm repairing a hydraulic press.
So short cut all that, I've used my Warco mill/drill. It had a hard life with its previous owner, I believe he made and raced karts and was upgrading to a Bridgeport when I bought it. I mainly use it for drilling. Its a great drill with the X/Y table but a mediocre mill, but ideal if your limited on space.
The reason I say mediocre mill is that it needs a bit of TLC as its rumbling a bit, and there's no real accurate Z axis adjustment other than a depth stop, but you could add a DRO.
The first one was spot on the centre, the z axis was clamped down and the brass collet is located by the V in the vice so in theory all subsequent ones should be the same.
However a couple did come out a bit off centre, only a tad and its only a grub screw. So, I have slitted, I am a slitter, but you knew that
The slitting has aggravated the bearing rumbling coming from the quill of the Warco, so that sounds like another job on the list.....
So short cut all that, I've used my Warco mill/drill. It had a hard life with its previous owner, I believe he made and raced karts and was upgrading to a Bridgeport when I bought it. I mainly use it for drilling. Its a great drill with the X/Y table but a mediocre mill, but ideal if your limited on space.
The reason I say mediocre mill is that it needs a bit of TLC as its rumbling a bit, and there's no real accurate Z axis adjustment other than a depth stop, but you could add a DRO.
The first one was spot on the centre, the z axis was clamped down and the brass collet is located by the V in the vice so in theory all subsequent ones should be the same.
However a couple did come out a bit off centre, only a tad and its only a grub screw. So, I have slitted, I am a slitter, but you knew that
The slitting has aggravated the bearing rumbling coming from the quill of the Warco, so that sounds like another job on the list.....
