123hotchef
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I was thinking about setting a lift in my drive when I re do it for the cars and pick. Up
Interested in why you mentioned rebar?A thick one with rebar......
Check installation specs for lift manufacturer...
Respectfully I’d say it’s common sense to not pull down hard on a fastener on a 2 post lift which will set up a rocking motion.I training as a commercial vehicle mechanic back in the early 70's, I served my apprenticeship at a firm who sold Ford HGV'S, Cars and supplied Ford special purpose vehicles, they had about six dealership depots.
I have seen 2 post lifts give way and vehicles move with the vehicles lifted on them and the damage it causes, hence I prefer working on the floor and on/with 4 post lifts.
I personally don't like the way 2 post lifts flex when a vehicle is being pulled on hard, I also worked for a short time for an independent Land Rover, they had various height axle stands up to 6ft tall to stabilise Land Rover 110/130's on the 2 post lifts because of sway n wobble.
I've worked on vehicles, plus had movement and wobble on a 4 poster but it's never felt dangerous.
For me personally 4 posts with the wheel free option is the way to work.
I training as a commercial vehicle mechanic back in the early 70's, I served my apprenticeship at a firm who sold Ford HGV'S, Cars and supplied Ford special purpose vehicles, they had about six dealership depots.
I have seen 2 post lifts give way and vehicles move with the vehicles lifted on them and the damage it causes, hence I prefer working on the floor and on/with 4 post lifts.
I personally don't like the way 2 post lifts flex when a vehicle is being pulled on hard, I also worked for a short time for an independent Land Rover, they had various height axle stands up to 6ft tall to stabilise Land Rover 110/130's on the 2 post lifts because of sway n wobble.
I've worked on vehicles, plus had movement and wobble on a 4 poster but it's never felt dangerous.
For me personally 4 posts with the wheel free option is the way to work.
And the reason for rebar is added floor/slab strength with resin bonded in studs set correctly, they won't pull out, you'll snap the stud first.
Respectfully I’d say it’s common sense to not pull down hard on a fastener on a 2 post lift which will set up a rocking motion.
These lifts are used almost exclusively in many garages and are perfectly safe if used with consideration to the off centre ballence if removing a tight bolt at the front or rear. A 4 post in a domestic garage is likely to be too large for most.
I have a 2 post. I fitted it on two pads of C40 about a metre square and 600mm thick, interlocked into the existing floor which is 3-4" thick. They're resting on bed rock.
The lift is a Chinese one I bought new 15 yrs ago. Apart from some slightly leaky hydraulics it's still good.
I agree with people's comments about them not feeling too secure. You have to make damn sure the arm pivot locks are engaged before lifting or the car can hinge off the lift.
I routinely have a transmission jack under each end of the car. The car is rock solid then. You can unbalance it and yank on it as much as you like and it doesn't move at all.
This technique would work well on single post/ mobile lifts too.
I've managed to weld sills and jacking points etc on it. You just have to lift the car off alternative points or use the spacers they come with to lift the car higher up from the arms.
When you drill through the concrete and hit rebar what do you do then unless the rebar is below the bolts level which would have to be I’d say around 7 inches , I was advised that C40 concrete with fibres is more up to the job.Your quote "And the reason for rebar is added floor/slab strength with resin bonded in studs set correctly, they won't pull out, you'll snap the stud first."
Chemi anchors are the way to go for sure...
I always go for rebar matting when laying concrete for ramp bases...
When you drill through the concrete and hit rebar what do you do then unless the rebar is below the bolts level which would have to be I’d say around 7 inches , I was advised that C40 concrete with fibres is more up to the job.
Ok thanks for the informationNormally you can with a template - place matting where the bolt holes are not gonna hit the rebar.
Or nip the bit out with grinder when you laying the matting.
I got some Sabecut drills in M20 M16 and M14 - if I really gotta drill thru rebar
They not cheap but the do work and solve a problem.
SabreCut Professional Rebar Cutter Fixed SDS Carbide Drill Bit shank 300mm | eBay
SabreCut SDS+ Rebar Cutters with Fixed SDS+ Shank. This cutting drill bit is used for dry drilling through concrete embedded rebar. and has an overall length of 300mm. SabreCut RBX Rebar Cutters are designed to be used in SDS plus hammer drills switched to rotary drilling mode only.www.ebay.co.uk
I do go a bit silly with rebar and matting when making concrete things for myself - ramps and bunds - civil engineering projects for sunken flush ramps. Not had anything crack or fall over yet thou in all this time.
Ok thanks for the information
Guess I’ll just just keep my fingers crossed then !
Well the lift manufacturer said it would be more than up to the job.I reckon C40 fibre mix would be OK myself.
Even when using self leveling - on repair patches in workshop - the fibre reinforced stuff is just so much better.
From the research I did, I would agree.Well the lift manufacturer said it would be more than up to the job.
But a transmission jack for extra security will be ordered straight away, it’s a sensible added extra, and I’m probably going to need one anyway at some point, any excuse for an extra piece of garage equipment!