OJCar
Member
- Messages
- 2,563
- Location
- Lothian & Westmorland
At the moment Yes.
The current distance between the axles is in the region of 13".
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
The current distance between the axles is in the region of 13".
New clamp handle from 1/4" silver steel - also randomly acquired - with 1/4 BSF brass danglers.
Jaws from literally from a bit of drawer slide or front, off the garage floor.
Few mins derusting on the wire wheel, waxed the bare and it works a treat. Going to see if me brother wants it, got him a wood lathe for his birthday and he loves it.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 13,335
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
Looking at those glasses more like Jo Brand.
Moose McAlpine
Member
- Messages
- 1,618
- Location
- Norf Lund'n
Love a nice easy job to start the week off.
- Messages
- 23,547
- Location
- Birmingham
Trying to work out the function of the breaker in the middle with massively mismatched cable sizes going in and out.
Continuous supply of 600v that can be fed from either end with multiple locations along the route
Large switches are fed in from the bottom and connected via a bus bar at the top. McB tapped off the bus bar so it can be isolated from either side and then the main cable fed from both ends keeping everything along the line powered up.
MCB doesn’t need to have a massive cable as it doesn’t feed anything that has a huge load on it especially as its stepped down to 100v immediately as it enters the location
Large switches are fed in from the bottom and connected via a bus bar at the top. McB tapped off the bus bar so it can be isolated from either side and then the main cable fed from both ends keeping everything along the line powered up.
MCB doesn’t need to have a massive cable as it doesn’t feed anything that has a huge load on it especially as its stepped down to 100v immediately as it enters the location
Stueeee
Old git
- Messages
- 1,093
- Location
- N W Kent
Well, mine is today I finished fixing... Some while ago I bought a set of slip rolls from a scrappy mate who had collected them as scrap metal.
I bought them at pretty much what they'd weigh in for, thinking to myself I'll mend those, and then they'll be a useful addition in the workshop. The main issues were a broken horn block, and a missing handle along with plenty of general evidence of them being operated by a bunch of rock apes.. Of course the rolls then mouldered outside my workshop for a year or so until I really needed a set bending rolls...
This was the first bit to fix.
Fortunately I had a load of really chunky billet offcuts from the same scrappy.
Sawed off the end and put it in the Bridgeport...
The new horn block finished...
Boring out the boss for the new handle. Just visible is the previously drilled hole off centre in the boss so there's only a bit of filing to make the keyway.
I plasma cut the handle out of some 8mm plate and welded it to the boss, the wooden bit is from a broom handle. Straightened all the bent bits out, painted the rolls and put them back together...
And now with them working nicely, I can get on with the original job....
I bought them at pretty much what they'd weigh in for, thinking to myself I'll mend those, and then they'll be a useful addition in the workshop. The main issues were a broken horn block, and a missing handle along with plenty of general evidence of them being operated by a bunch of rock apes.. Of course the rolls then mouldered outside my workshop for a year or so until I really needed a set bending rolls...
This was the first bit to fix.
Fortunately I had a load of really chunky billet offcuts from the same scrappy.
Sawed off the end and put it in the Bridgeport...
Boring out the boss for the new handle. Just visible is the previously drilled hole off centre in the boss so there's only a bit of filing to make the keyway.
I plasma cut the handle out of some 8mm plate and welded it to the boss, the wooden bit is from a broom handle. Straightened all the bent bits out, painted the rolls and put them back together...
And now with them working nicely, I can get on with the original job....
Poundland reading glasses for scale and seeing things.
Removed the rusted bobcat auxiliary lines, gonna replace with hoses running all the way to the bucket since existing ones are missing and can't easily get replacement tube versions.
It's certainly corroded away that should be a 3/4" hydraulic pipe but deforms like copper brake line!
The other line has the tee further back so that one is salvageable.
It's certainly corroded away that should be a 3/4" hydraulic pipe but deforms like copper brake line!
The other line has the tee further back so that one is salvageable.
The little brass nut inserts which were moulded in the corner of my laptop lid somehow came loose and with the lid flexing the screen cracked.
Another screen obtained from someone on evilbay, drill from the shed, drilled right through the lid, a few bolts and repair done.
I know the bolts look a bit crude, but it is only for myself and it appears ok and so far to be a successful blacksmith repair.
Another screen obtained from someone on evilbay, drill from the shed, drilled right through the lid, a few bolts and repair done.
I know the bolts look a bit crude, but it is only for myself and it appears ok and so far to be a successful blacksmith repair.
Blobber
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,435
- Location
- lincolnshire
From the Elton John Collection?
I finally got the disco lt77 converted to defender shifter, and bolted to the 200tdi motor and in the frame rails with a new release bearing and a old but good clutch out of my spares stash.
I have opted to use the original round bolt in xmember complete with character rather than the shielder supplied 200tdi one, because the sheilder one is just a bit of rectangle profile tube with some plates welded the end and two gussets then galv'd and obviously not original. Another thing that's annoying me about the sheilder chassis is the holes for the mounts are different diameter than the originals so I'm drilling the original mounts the larger size to match.
You can see the por-15 flaking off the painted chassis too. I'll just give it a go over with a wire brush and brush some coachpaint over it after its all done at the end. I'm done with trying to do it "properly", I just need my workhorse back together to use and solid, its not a fashion statement.
Now the motor was in, steam off the bulkhead and remove all the noise isolation & move the column bracket and bonnet catch mountings etc by drilling the spot welds out ready to move sides, and with it nice and clean I can start fettling & welding it.
Of course every time you steam a landrover bulkhead you get a few surprises. I thought it was really solid and it was, until the grot was off.
So I cut out some repair pieces, and then along comes madame fate as usual with daughter's car making a knocking noise from front suspension on her weekend back from uni in it.
I had new strut top bearings on the shelf because 207's are prone to it apparently but had been too lazy to put them in as it was supposed to have new monroe struts in.
There's a rubberized large cup shaped washer fits on the very top of the strut holding it to a cup in the bodyshell but adjustable in the hole to adjust camber. Which one side had perished badly and lost its rubber and come loose. I didnt have one, so friday pm turned a replacement rubber section on the lathe from a hard rubber caster out of the scrap box, and fitted and test driven it all good. Then sat afternoon my local spares place got the new parts in early so it got a strut bearing and oem top washer replacement both sides for completeness.
Also not many people (including haynes...) seems to mention the small alignment hole in the strut top that you insert a peugeot suspension alignment guide pin in (or in chez moi, the shank of a drill bit the right size) to align the replacement strut top in the body hole to set the camber, if you happen to be in the same position in future.
I thought I'd get hardly any use out this vevor spring compressor and had other ideas to repurpose it for a different job but I keep needing it for family cars, and its far better than the pucker factor when your using the windy screw compressors on the strut spring. Enough reduction that I could relax and take a shot of it in the armed for springy danger position on my phone.
Finally had son complaining about all time daughter's car had spent on it, and how he needed to use the ramp and get equal attention. Which really means in my past experience that he was going to stay in bed after gaming late while I worked on it in frustration to get it out the workshop quicker.
So sunday whizzed through his oil change and service stuff, and checked over brakes and suspension as he said it was jumping & bouncing on higher speed corners & clicky play in inner cv joint seems the culprit.
I've tasked him with sourcing his own parts as he's 21 and quite capable of it, so I'll probably have a few distraction free month while he undertakes the mammoth ordeal of clicking buy it now on some spares site and orders the wrong parts a few times first learning about the way of how the real world works. If he wants full diagnosis and repair with just a neat bill, he can take it a garage!
I have opted to use the original round bolt in xmember complete with character rather than the shielder supplied 200tdi one, because the sheilder one is just a bit of rectangle profile tube with some plates welded the end and two gussets then galv'd and obviously not original. Another thing that's annoying me about the sheilder chassis is the holes for the mounts are different diameter than the originals so I'm drilling the original mounts the larger size to match.
You can see the por-15 flaking off the painted chassis too. I'll just give it a go over with a wire brush and brush some coachpaint over it after its all done at the end. I'm done with trying to do it "properly", I just need my workhorse back together to use and solid, its not a fashion statement.
Now the motor was in, steam off the bulkhead and remove all the noise isolation & move the column bracket and bonnet catch mountings etc by drilling the spot welds out ready to move sides, and with it nice and clean I can start fettling & welding it.
Of course every time you steam a landrover bulkhead you get a few surprises. I thought it was really solid and it was, until the grot was off.
So I cut out some repair pieces, and then along comes madame fate as usual with daughter's car making a knocking noise from front suspension on her weekend back from uni in it.
I had new strut top bearings on the shelf because 207's are prone to it apparently but had been too lazy to put them in as it was supposed to have new monroe struts in.
There's a rubberized large cup shaped washer fits on the very top of the strut holding it to a cup in the bodyshell but adjustable in the hole to adjust camber. Which one side had perished badly and lost its rubber and come loose. I didnt have one, so friday pm turned a replacement rubber section on the lathe from a hard rubber caster out of the scrap box, and fitted and test driven it all good. Then sat afternoon my local spares place got the new parts in early so it got a strut bearing and oem top washer replacement both sides for completeness.
Also not many people (including haynes...) seems to mention the small alignment hole in the strut top that you insert a peugeot suspension alignment guide pin in (or in chez moi, the shank of a drill bit the right size) to align the replacement strut top in the body hole to set the camber, if you happen to be in the same position in future.
I thought I'd get hardly any use out this vevor spring compressor and had other ideas to repurpose it for a different job but I keep needing it for family cars, and its far better than the pucker factor when your using the windy screw compressors on the strut spring. Enough reduction that I could relax and take a shot of it in the armed for springy danger position on my phone.
Finally had son complaining about all time daughter's car had spent on it, and how he needed to use the ramp and get equal attention. Which really means in my past experience that he was going to stay in bed after gaming late while I worked on it in frustration to get it out the workshop quicker.
So sunday whizzed through his oil change and service stuff, and checked over brakes and suspension as he said it was jumping & bouncing on higher speed corners & clicky play in inner cv joint seems the culprit.
I've tasked him with sourcing his own parts as he's 21 and quite capable of it, so I'll probably have a few distraction free month while he undertakes the mammoth ordeal of clicking buy it now on some spares site and orders the wrong parts a few times first learning about the way of how the real world works. If he wants full diagnosis and repair with just a neat bill, he can take it a garage!
I did that once, but I fitted little metal squares cut from a offcut of stainless as spreader plates and used mushroom headed allens so it looked almost factory & it lasted the life of the laptop!
RobCox
Member
- Messages
- 531
- Location
- Cambridge, UK
I was given a couple of tapping heads by @Smouser, neither on their own was any good but the idea was to cobble together one good one from the available bits. First I took both apart, easy when you know how but it took a while to work out which bits to hit, which to unscrew, and which to leave alone:
First order of business was to wash the whole lot in white spirit and gently wirebrush off all the baked on metal chips, solidified oil and wash out the old grease. Choosing the best parts, and it turned out there were enough for one complete head, I put it back together:
The knurled nut got re-knurled as someone had used pliers/pipe grips on it and I did a spot of hot oil bluing on it afterwards.
It's a nice design, a simple dog clutch and gears that make the driving dogs rotate in opposite directions.
I still have to remake the steady arm as that had been bent.
So I'm left with this collection of bits:
The spindle has a slight bend in it and the housing has a cracked threaded boss for the steady arm. If however someone on here has one of these heads requiring a spare part and you can see it here, you're welcome to it, otherwise these bits will gather dust till I throw them out.
First order of business was to wash the whole lot in white spirit and gently wirebrush off all the baked on metal chips, solidified oil and wash out the old grease. Choosing the best parts, and it turned out there were enough for one complete head, I put it back together:
The knurled nut got re-knurled as someone had used pliers/pipe grips on it and I did a spot of hot oil bluing on it afterwards.
It's a nice design, a simple dog clutch and gears that make the driving dogs rotate in opposite directions.
I still have to remake the steady arm as that had been bent.
So I'm left with this collection of bits:
The spindle has a slight bend in it and the housing has a cracked threaded boss for the steady arm. If however someone on here has one of these heads requiring a spare part and you can see it here, you're welcome to it, otherwise these bits will gather dust till I throw them out.
RaceDiagnostics
Member
- Messages
- 3,442
- Location
- Broughty Ferry
Not really a fix but, greased the U joints on the Jag driveshafts.
Feels very agricultural.
Two new tyres.
And then took a delivery from Rock Auto in the US, ordered on Saturday and delivered today. Great service.
So job for tomorrow is to fit a new set of cam cover gaskets.
Feels very agricultural.
Two new tyres.
And then took a delivery from Rock Auto in the US, ordered on Saturday and delivered today. Great service.
So job for tomorrow is to fit a new set of cam cover gaskets.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,835
- Location
- Teesside, England
Console yourself with the thought that if it was good enough for the E-Type ...
