Will give that a try tomorrow if I can.My earlier suggestion of jacking up one wheel is effectively checking out those planet gears. With the gearbox in gear and the engine not running the diff cage will be locked stationary (apart from some very slight backlash in the gearbox gears). With one wheel on the ground, attempting to turn the one off the ground tells you how much backlash there is in the planet gears. Plus it also checks your CV joints, inner & outer. There should be very little movement in the wheel off the ground, if you can rotate it say a quarter of a turn them something is very wrong
Very similar to what happens on Classic Mini's and equally destructive!Pin number #4 in the pic above shears off, this allows the shaft which goes through the 2 green circled gears to come loose in the diff housing, this will move out a few mm before it his the gearbox casing, the gearbox casing is perfectly round and has only a few mm of clearance around the diff body. The shaft will happily rub away at the gearbox casing for thousands of km until it eventually rubs completely through the casing inside the bell housing as that's the thinnest spot, then all hell breaks loose, as seen in the pic below
If the its noticed in time when the shaft first breaks through and starts leaking oil it's an easy fix, open box, install new pin and weld up the hole. I've done several of them, the casings actually weld surprisingly nice for cast aluminium that's soaked in oilVery similar to what happens on Classic Mini's and equally destructive!
Not had a chance to look today, been away getting another car as a stop gap. I am now officially a demented old gammon, it is a Rover 75
Hopefully it will last me until I get mine fixed although it drives surprisingly nicely.
Well it feels smooth so it must be doing its jobThose engines really do need the damping provided by the dmf
No offence but I dont think yours has the power to rip a dual mass flywheel apart! Normally only a problem on the 180+ps transporters etc that are loaded up with gear.
Having said that, if it's going to go then it will go right after you have fitted the new clutch as the take-up will be harsher for the first few '000 miles.
A genuine dual mass will cost more than the car. A decent brand aftermarket one will cost more than the used gearbox!
Personally, unless yours has done starship mileage I would take my chances with the existing one rather than fit a cheap new one.
Same for the solid conversions. Decent ones are available but are nearly £400.
If you were going to be keeping the car for another 250k+ and it was a 3.5ton van then yes but not for a daily drive. Just be gentle on it!
Cheap solid ones will destroy the clutch plate pretty quickly and its pot luck weather they are correctly balanced or not.
Aye, I can quite believe that. The looks of the car externally are not too bad but those bloody dials, what were they thinking? they are disgusting, at least the one I have is not the cream and plastic wood effect interior.When they designed the Rover 75 it was well known that it was only tested with a couple of straw hats and a tombola in the boot....
Aye, I can quite believe that. The looks of the car externally are not too bad but those bloody dials, what were they thinking? they are disgusting, at least the one I have is not the cream and plastic wood effect interior.