Shopping List for New BUD Owner

[dazza]

Great work you're doing, want to come and do mine when it arrives?

Sounds good, bit far though. Hopefully yours is not as dirty.

Are you a member on Detailing World too.......?

http://www.detailingworld.com/

I'm not a member but i do like to do a bit of detailing now and then.

 

[Seadog]

@dazza, if you haven't already reassembled the apron, woould you mind putting a close-up shot of the parts associated with the clutch? I know they differ to the earlier models but would like to know how.

Cheers

Graham

 

[dazza]

@dazza, if you haven't already reassembled the apron, woould you mind putting a close-up shot of the parts associated with the clutch? I know they differ to the earlier models but would like to know how.

Cheers

Graham

Sorry Graham just got it back together, will whip the clutch out tomorrow and take some photos.

 

[dazza]

I enjoyed that.

Need to give it a wipe down as oily hands have made a bit of a mess.

I think the clutch is working now, with the handle in the position below and clutch engaged i cannot move the handle but the handle will move if i spin the bit that goes on the lead screw.

What are the three positions?

One thing i'm concerned about is the little pipe that feeds oil onto the bit that slides along the lead screw its loose. I was thinking about using some hot glue?

 

[Seadog]

That was well worth the effort in my opinion, and yours from the look of the post

If it's no trouble to do that @dazza I'd be grateful. The middle position of the lever is neutral and allows the half nuts to be engaged, upper and lower positions give you surface and facing feeds respectively. What I'd like to know is whether or not the clutch knob rotates when either of the feeds is engaged with of course the clutch tightened. I've an idea it doesn't on the later apron. I'd like to modify mine, if possible, to the later type mechanism so that I can make a toggle arrangement to engage/disengage the clutch rather than a screw up knob.

Graham

 

[dazza]

That was well worth the effort in my opinion, and yours from the look of the post

If it's no trouble to do that @dazza I'd be grateful. The middle position of the lever is neutral and allows the half nuts to be engaged, upper and lower positions give you surface and facing feeds respectively. What I'd like to know is whether or not the clutch knob rotates when either of the feeds is engaged with of course the clutch tightened. I've an idea it doesn't on the later apron. I'd like to modify mine, if possible, to the later type mechanism so that I can make a toggle arrangement to engage/disengage the clutch rather than a screw up knob.

Graham

Will take some pics tomorrow, i don't think it rotates.

 

[dazza]

Someone mentioned adjustable feet, should i think about raising the cabinet i'm a little over 6ft?

 

[Seadog]

I'm only 5'8" and I've raised mine 4"

 

[dazza]

I'm only 5'8" and I've raised mine 4"

Is there a recommended hight x point to elbow etc.

 

[Seadog]

I found this which seems a fair guide - If the lathe will be used in a standing position only, take the following measurements while wearing the type of shoes that you will be wearing while doing the turning. Standing upright place your left hand on your right shoulder. Measure the distance from your elbow to the ground. This measurement is where the spindles of the lathe should be located. Based on the construction of the lathe this will help you determine the size of the bench needed. Deduct the size of the lathe from this measurement and you will have the size of the bench needed.

 

[dazza]

It would be handy to have it high enough to get a jack under or have some scissor jacks and castors so i can move it.

 

[Pete.]

Having a lathe on casters isn't a great idea. They benefit from being sat firmly on the floor.

 

[dazza]

Having a lathe on casters isn't a great idea. They benefit from being sat firmly on the floor.

Not permanently on casters either bolt them on quickly with in an impact wrench or have a couple of scissor jacks to lower them.

 

[dazza]

@Seadog are these ok? Its still in bits if you want more pics.

The pin in the back stops the handle from rotating but puts pressure on the other piece so it engages.

Its rusting already .

 

[dazza]

 

[Seadog]

@dazza - thank you so much for taking the time to do this. Perfect, I can see exactly what's involved now. The parts diagram on the Boxford site isn't very clear, as you may know if you've visited it.

I'll have to decide how to adapt mine now

Get some light oil onto everything before you have to take it apart to clean it again

 

[Pete.]

Yeah one thing that wd40 is good for is leaving a residue. Give it a good spray and let it drip dry or run over it with an oily cloth.

 

[dazza]

@dazza - thank you so much for taking the time to do this. Perfect, I can see exactly what's involved now. The parts diagram on the Boxford site isn't very clear, as you may know if you've visited it.

I'll have to decide how to adapt mine now

Happy to help.

Get some light oil onto everything before you have to take it apart to clean it again

Yeah one thing that wd40 is good for is leaving a residue. Give it a good spray and let it drip dry or run over it with an oily cloth.

I wiped everything down with an alcohol wipe then coated with oil, how about drying everything with the heat gun?


Got a little more done, did not go too OTT with this there is still some grease in the teeth.

 

[Pete.]

Tbh a little flash rust won't hurt it's just where moisture from the air has hit the degreaseday metal.

 

[dazza]

This is never ending, tailstock next. Full strip down or just clean up the outside?