Need a new shed...

[Davek0974]

that garage door will be well heavy if doing it on your own....

Yeah, i can enlist the help of my son for that

 

[Davek0974]

oh sorry didnt read that so use bricks to higher it off the floor or even a flag cut in half double it up

that would be correct a shed cannot be built infront of the front wall

id still use blocks to fill up the front door area of garage as more securer

this might help alot better

https://www.cranegardenbuildings.co.uk/articles/planning-permission-for-garden-buildings

Thanks, that matches what i was reading regarding planning.

I think one brick height at the low end and some cement pads at the intermediate points would be about it - one end is 50mm low and at the mid point the slope starts.

Security on the in-fill is not an issue - it will have a shed in front of it

 

[gaz1]

there is this but think your too far away

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/free-garages.70521/

 

[Rig Pig]

Cheap / free sectional garage? mine was 'free if you can take it down' from a mate. They are easy to rebuild in different configurations and last well - unlike cheap wood. I clad the side and back with shiplap to make it blend in.

 

[Davek0974]

Thanks, trouble with a garage is it needs a good base/floor laying and the shed will be over an existing ramp that i want to leave in place, plus i'm not sure if a garage counts as permitted development where there is already a garage in situ, sheds seem to be treated as non-permanent?

 

[angellonewolf]

sheds are non permanent but over a certain size do have to have planing concent depending on where you are in the country

 

[Davek0974]

Yeah, checked that, its 15sq m floor area max if within 2m of boundary, max 2.5m high, no more than 50% of garden area covered with all outbuildings. I'm safe on all points.

 

[Davek0974]

First job will be the up-n-over removal.

This is the first sketch of my plan, its a pretty big opening!

View from outside looking in...

Treated 45x70 with the same cladding as the shed.

Doors will be bolted from inside with no external access method, three 400mm strap hinges fitted with carriage bolts one each door.

Method I think will be to fit header and footer, add the end framing, then the studs, double up on the top of the doorway for strength and clad it, then build / fit doors to suit.

 

[awemawson]

Build the door and door frame together, temporarily fixed across the corners with battens, then incorporate into your studding. This way frame and door have the same degree of 'squareness'. Space the door from the door frame all round with packing of your chosen gap and pre-fit the hinges before erecting it.

 

[Davek0974]

Good point, thanks.

Might be easier than 'fitting' the doors after.

Only issue i can see will be manhandling a pair of doors 6' wide on my own

 

[awemawson]

Can you assemble it inside the original garage roughly in line with where you need it, then 'just' hinge it up into position.

(this is the door fitting sequence I learnt years ago and it's served me well )

 

[Davek0974]

LOL, not without moving a lathe and a milling machine first

The existing one is full up, hence the expansion. This will all have to be built in the garden.

 

[Rig Pig]

I'd be tempted to slit the existing door and fit some unistrut or similar to stiffen it up to make the door and stud the fixed bit. My garage door is fitted with fire door s/steel HD hinges to convert it to side opening - I used to have a tall landrover that wouldn't fit in with the up and over.

 

[gaz1]

forget wood build it out of metal for your doors much stronger and roughly the same price

 

[Davek0974]

I would do that but its very difficult to make steelwork look less "industrial" this will be visible from the front of the house so don't want it too unsightly.

I was thinking steel frame door with wood infill but in the end i think plain old wood will do the job.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I would do that but its very difficult to make steelwork look less "industrial" this will be visible from the front of the house so don't want it too unsightly.

I was thinking steel frame door with wood infill but in the end i think plain old wood will do the job.

You could try this

or this

 

[Davek0974]

Nice, i could probably make it faster in wood though

This stuff seems the mutts nuts for the roof...
http://www.permaroofstore.co.uk/pro...te-firestone-epdm-1-14mm-rubber-flat-roof-kit

 

[Davek0974]

Insulate or not??

This shed will be intermittent use - its for powder-coating and storage mainly, not a general work area.

I was going to line the inside with 12mm chipboard pallet tops as i get an endless supply of these in the day job

Should i bother to insulate the walls/roof as well?

If yes then do i need to worry about vapour barrier too?

 

[gaz1]

first off id adjust the size of the shed too 8' x 10' if you can have it that way as long as it dosnt go above the garage height you would be fine

to insulate if your moving then use foam boards on composite boards easy to move again

it does help to insulate the place saves it going cold but as a cold room to store no unless it drips like hell

 

[Davek0974]

Can't go 8x10 - it would go beyond the front elevation of the house by about 4" and that's a no-no.

I have used cellotex panels before, is that going to work ok between wood cladding and wood lining?