brightspark
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I was replying to the op . plug not a socket
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Ben88
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This is the plug it came with when i went to get it, it was run through normal household sockets with an extension into the garage got it up to 140A with out blowing any fuses. It'd be nice if it just limited me to run under 100amps rather than not work completly. Could maybe switching it to lift instead of HF help thanks for the quick reply guys appreicate it
NickyEng
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Cheap poorly conductive 13A chinese sockets won't help. My Tumble dryer melted a plug in our house .
Then I fitted a new mk socket instead of buying a cheapie and it's been fine.
It's clear he needs a new dedicated 32A supply installed not just a plug change if he going to open the thing up to full power.
Then I fitted a new mk socket instead of buying a cheapie and it's been fine.
It's clear he needs a new dedicated 32A supply installed not just a plug change if he going to open the thing up to full power.
zx9
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That looks well toasted, I would not have even plugged it in. Please get it checked out by a sparkie / repair shop and get the correct 32A out let and suitable wiring installed and tested.
NickyEng
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I remember when I first joined up and Was a trainee, I accidentally ran over a plug for a mobile power supply with the tractor, my PO pulled me into the office and took me apart just to make himself feel good. He then made me write a letter explaining how it happened and completely humiliated me on front of the entire class.Thing is, I've heard people refer to an rcd tripping as 'blowing a fuse', and I've seen someone (on here) ask for a youtube tutorial on how to fit a plug...
Sorry to get all 'lowest common denominator' but these days it seems it's needed.
I even offered to pay back the tax payer out of my own money.
I will never forget what he said when I tried to explain myself "your supposed to be stupid O'Donnell, don't abuse the privilege"
Mod:Edited for language
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Richard.
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Perhaps there is a small fault that only becomes elaborate on your sensitive supply.
That plug in the pic doesn't look in very good shape on the neutral pin. Something like that usually means it's had a tale to tell at some point. I wouldn't of plugged that in either.
That plug in the pic doesn't look in very good shape on the neutral pin. Something like that usually means it's had a tale to tell at some point. I wouldn't of plugged that in either.
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I think Richard's got it there Ben. Some of these units can make more sensitive electricity supplies trip out. I used to have one that was the same and it would sometimes trip two or three times in a row before it'd start up. I put it down to some capacitor charging somewhere inside it.
That being said - the cable and plug look shocking (pun intended) and for the sake of a fiver I'd have that all out and rewired. You never know, that might help it. At the very least you can be sure it's not gonna bite you.
A 32A dedicated supply is what you need. It can be wired in a million different ways and I'm no sparky but usually it'd be a dedicated line in T&E or SWA from the CU to the 32A socket. If you're moving in a few months then it's not worth it really. Spend the money on a new power cable and plug...
That being said - the cable and plug look shocking (pun intended) and for the sake of a fiver I'd have that all out and rewired. You never know, that might help it. At the very least you can be sure it's not gonna bite you.
A 32A dedicated supply is what you need. It can be wired in a million different ways and I'm no sparky but usually it'd be a dedicated line in T&E or SWA from the CU to the 32A socket. If you're moving in a few months then it's not worth it really. Spend the money on a new power cable and plug...
Appyasme1
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I would not be happy with 10mm cable in a 13A plugI think Richard's got it there Ben. Some of these units can make more sensitive electricity supplies trip out. I used to have one that was the same and it would sometimes trip two or three times in a row before it'd start up. I put it down to some capacitor charging somewhere inside it.
That being said - the cable and plug look shocking (pun intended) and for the sake of a fiver I'd have that all out and rewired. You never know, that might help it. At the very least you can be sure it's not gonna bite you.
A 32A dedicated supply is what you need. It can be wired in a million different ways and I'm no sparky but usually it'd be a dedicated line in T&E or SWA from the CU to the 32A socket. If you're moving in a few months then it's not worth it really. Spend the money on a new power cable and plug...
Ben88
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Thanks for fast reply guys. I'm realy hoping that i can get this going off 3 pin socket its not end of the world if i can't. I thought it would be a case of just using it on low amps as it comes on this size plug that is the part i'm struggling with if you can't have any more than 13A from a 3 pin plug then why put one on that needs 27.5A or has this plug been put on after an it should of been a 240v blue plug?
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Way over the top at 10mm mate! A 13A plug can only do thirteen amps maximum. A 10mm cable is something like sixty amps so way too much headroom. 1.5mm is more than enough.
Get a rubber plug (they bounce better), couple of quid.
That being said, you WILL NOT run that machine flat out on 13A. You're looking at about HALF the power being available to you IF you can get it work on your supply at your current digs.
What I am suggesting above is something you should do right now as that plug and cable looks **** and hell it's a few quid vs a big problem if it goes starfish up.
What I suggest when you get the 32A supply in your new place is:
6mm cable would be fine for 47A at the length you describe.
Cable wise, H07RN is a highly flexible cable and a joy to use, very durable. 6mm three core. EBay is good for short lengths.
Get a quality branded plug, they're nicer to wire and use.
All that being said mate, and I say this with nothing more in mind than your well-being, you don't sound massively confident here; perhaps call a favour in from a knowledgeable mate or hire a pro?
Mod: Language edit
Get a rubber plug (they bounce better), couple of quid.
That being said, you WILL NOT run that machine flat out on 13A. You're looking at about HALF the power being available to you IF you can get it work on your supply at your current digs.
What I am suggesting above is something you should do right now as that plug and cable looks **** and hell it's a few quid vs a big problem if it goes starfish up.
What I suggest when you get the 32A supply in your new place is:
6mm cable would be fine for 47A at the length you describe.
Cable wise, H07RN is a highly flexible cable and a joy to use, very durable. 6mm three core. EBay is good for short lengths.
Get a quality branded plug, they're nicer to wire and use.
All that being said mate, and I say this with nothing more in mind than your well-being, you don't sound massively confident here; perhaps call a favour in from a knowledgeable mate or hire a pro?
Mod: Language edit
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Sorry this came in whilst I typed
Yes bingo Ben - that machine should have thick cable and a whopping 32A blue commando plug on it.
Someone has put a smaller one on to try what you're trying.
Sometimes it works, sometimes the supply is really fussy and won't do it.
At the bare minimum, replace the lead and 13A plug and retry - see what happens but have someone on firewatch armed with a non-conductive broom
j/k mate. Rewired I would try that again on low amps and see how I got on.32A socket to make it sing though!
Ben88
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http://www.diy.com/departments/prysmian-25mm-twin-earth-cable-reel-l5m/257134_BQ.prd So some of that with a decent plug an when i'm ready to step the power up i'll just have to put a 6mm cable an new plug. Its worth a try
