- Thread starter Satsuma
- Start date
lend me £523 for the panel and I will fit one 
The car cost me less than that. I will just have to take my time when welding, the body panels are fairly heavy steel so i don't see it being a problem.
Edit: Ah I see what you were saying, use the panel from the other car. I could have but I think too much metal has been cut out already, I guess I could if it was all braced up. If I cut out the quarter panel I doubt I could keep the car straight without a load more work. The panel I had was also off a pre 73 car, which have the round rear lights, after 73 they were square so it would not fit without being modified.
The car cost me less than that. I will just have to take my time when welding, the body panels are fairly heavy steel so i don't see it being a problem.Edit: Ah I see what you were saying, use the panel from the other car. I could have but I think too much metal has been cut out already, I guess I could if it was all braced up. If I cut out the quarter panel I doubt I could keep the car straight without a load more work. The panel I had was also off a pre 73 car, which have the round rear lights, after 73 they were square so it would not fit without being modified.
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Slowly getting some structure back to the driver’s side of the car. There has been a lot time spent fitting the recent work, juggling the bits to make sure they are in the right places. I binned the repair sub frame mount which had been welded to the car, I choose to use the mount from the donor car instead.
I welded in patches to the side of the foot well before repairing the rest of the inner sill.
After a sandblast and some primer.
I welded in patches to the side of the foot well before repairing the rest of the inner sill.
After a sandblast and some primer.
The offside of the car is now starting to look like it should. I finally managed to get the sill back on, woohoo!
Before I fitted the sill I spent a while rebuilding the structures at either end of the sill which where none existent, I tried to keep it close to original by working from photographs. It also took a long time to put right the holes from the plug welds which I had drilled or ground out when I removed the sill.
*Part of the wheel arch and inner sill
*Bottom of the door hinge panel
*Sill welded back in!
*Small repair to the replacement arch section
*Cleaned and painted ready for welding
*Tacked in place
*Looks straight so far...
Thanks
Ben
Before I fitted the sill I spent a while rebuilding the structures at either end of the sill which where none existent, I tried to keep it close to original by working from photographs. It also took a long time to put right the holes from the plug welds which I had drilled or ground out when I removed the sill.
*Part of the wheel arch and inner sill
*Bottom of the door hinge panel
*Sill welded back in!
*Small repair to the replacement arch section
*Cleaned and painted ready for welding
*Tacked in place
*Looks straight so far...
Thanks
Ben
Thanks for the comments. I'm trying to do the best job I can, with the tools, materials and money I have available. So far I am happy with the result.
I did the swage lines by hand with a blunt chisel. I stole the method from a Thai guy doing a VW camper resto, I found the thread on another forum via a link on here somewhere. My bookmarks were scrubbed so I can't show you. The guy was making all sorts of repair panels with a hammer, chisel and a piece of railway track.
If someone has the link I would be grateful.
I did the swage lines by hand with a blunt chisel. I stole the method from a Thai guy doing a VW camper resto, I found the thread on another forum via a link on here somewhere. My bookmarks were scrubbed so I can't show you. The guy was making all sorts of repair panels with a hammer, chisel and a piece of railway track.
If someone has the link I would be grateful.
daf45
Member
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- 259
http://www.vwrides.com/viewtopic.ph...&start=0&sid=3af3f2684996e0d0e2dbff0538b72183
Not sure if that works as a link but search "thailand" on the forum and its in that thread started by rusty-bus
Not sure if that works as a link but search "thailand" on the forum and its in that thread started by rusty-bus
Thats the one, thanks!
In my experience the 02's handle very well, the rear end can be a little loose if you are silly apart from that they are great. As seen in this youtube vid.
In my experience the 02's handle very well, the rear end can be a little loose if you are silly apart from that they are great. As seen in this youtube vid.
I got the arch back in and pretty much warp free, the little distortion there is should come out with a hammer and dolly.
I patched up the lower part of the panel and tacked that on; also I made up a repair section from a good section of sill from the donor car for the lower part in front of the arch.
The offside is almost done; I just need to finish welding the above mentioned pieces. My dad has had the welder to get the Disco ready for an MOT, so I haven't done much since these photos. It still looks a mess but when the multitude of crappy paint comes off it should look sweet
Roll on the Nearside Booooo!
Cheers
Ben
* the arch in, welded area on the left went slightly concave and on the right side it went convex, not sure why but it is only minor.
* a little patchwork, but solid and when finished it is mostly hidden by the bumper and stone chip protector
I patched up the lower part of the panel and tacked that on; also I made up a repair section from a good section of sill from the donor car for the lower part in front of the arch.
The offside is almost done; I just need to finish welding the above mentioned pieces. My dad has had the welder to get the Disco ready for an MOT, so I haven't done much since these photos. It still looks a mess but when the multitude of crappy paint comes off it should look sweet
Roll on the Nearside Booooo!Cheers
Ben
* the arch in, welded area on the left went slightly concave and on the right side it went convex, not sure why but it is only minor.
* a little patchwork, but solid and when finished it is mostly hidden by the bumper and stone chip protector
Thanks Wozzaaah!
I'm going to seam weld the sill all the way along on the other side, so it will be watertight and not give an anal MOT tester the horn. I used plug welds every 4" just to hold it in place until I can raise the car higher in order to get underneath. I assume that this will be ok?
Cheers
Ben
I'm going to seam weld the sill all the way along on the other side, so it will be watertight and not give an anal MOT tester the horn. I used plug welds every 4" just to hold it in place until I can raise the car higher in order to get underneath. I assume that this will be ok?
Cheers
Ben
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can of worms time cos we're into that grey area again.If it was me I wouldn't seam weld the bottom edge, I'd plug weld it spacing them as the original spot welds were spaced and seam weld all the other edges.This is how the tester's manual words it and if a tester disputes that I'd challenge him to read the relevant paragraph and take it up with VOSA if he/she still disputes it.
I really cannot see that you are expected to 'spoil' a high quality restoration with an ugly seam weld.
If you do the repair to a high standard, grinding the plug welds flush, it won't even look like you've added a repair piece
.
Well if you are sure, then I would be happy with plug welds. I thought I read on the forum that for MOT's everything has to be seam welded. But as you said when it’s finished it will look original and the tester would not be able to tell.
I have welded the top of the sill as per original, with a plug roughly every inch and a quarter. I aim to grind everything back and make it as tidy and seamless as possible.
Maybe I should give the garage a call and see where they stand?
I have welded the top of the sill as per original, with a plug roughly every inch and a quarter. I aim to grind everything back and make it as tidy and seamless as possible.
Maybe I should give the garage a call and see where they stand?
Highway_Star
Member
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- 303
No need it's quite clear.
When you're doing a repair like this, it can be plug welded where it was spot welded originally. Provided you have removed all of the original flange.
It must be seam welded where the joint is mid panel, not on a original seam.
Good job though, may would like to aspire to this.
When you're doing a repair like this, it can be plug welded where it was spot welded originally. Provided you have removed all of the original flange.
It must be seam welded where the joint is mid panel, not on a original seam.
Good job though, may would like to aspire to this.
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At last! Someone who agrees with me on the wording in the tester's manual! 