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peterd51
happy to be here!
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Hi,
sounds good, but I can't 'see' how it works...have you got a photo or drawing please?
Initially I thought you had the two nuts on a plate and put the drill in the middle but re-reading it you say weld the nuts with two flats together.
I can see where the 120 degrees comes from using one of the flats, but how do you actually use it?
Would one of the nuts have a flat parallel to the edge of the plate and also parallel to the grinding disk?
Regards
Peter
sounds good, but I can't 'see' how it works...have you got a photo or drawing please?
Initially I thought you had the two nuts on a plate and put the drill in the middle but re-reading it you say weld the nuts with two flats together.
I can see where the 120 degrees comes from using one of the flats, but how do you actually use it?
Would one of the nuts have a flat parallel to the edge of the plate and also parallel to the grinding disk?
Regards
Peter
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Peter, I think it's just a visual aid to see if the angle is somewhere near, if the drill fits neatly into the vee created between the next two flats from the welded two then it's approximately 120 degrees so as near to 118 as would matter. It would also give you a rough idea as to whether the bit is ground reasonably evenly on both sides.
Sam
Banned
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http://www.drilldoctor.com/ I bought one of these great tool saves time and perfect results.
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The trick is to twist the bit as you sharpen it, get your front edges near then get the correct relief by twisting whe drill as you grind it, dont be tempted to use the side of the wheal tho, Its easier and gives a better finish, But you could end up wearing it, especialy if its cheap quality.....This book has lots of info on the subject, along with a guide, J&L industrial sell it for £16, and TBH I think its a must for anyone doing any metalworking, I use it most days esential stuff.....
BTW archie cut a gear or two myself, on the shaper and divideing head, never again tho.....
BTW archie cut a gear or two myself, on the shaper and divideing head, never again tho.....
Last edited:
gavuk
artful-bodger
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anyone tried this style of attachment ,,,,,i'm reasonable at hand grinding but even the best i know still get the odd bad one .....and as my eyesight is getting worse 
............http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/dga1-drill-grinding-attachment
similar to end/slot mill attachments but is it any good for drills ?........anybody used or got one?.........sams and robots, are like the ones i've used before did a reasonable job but have special stones and lots of bits ,,,,,do they cope with th imperial and metric sizes easily?......bigger drills are easy enuff its 5mm down i struggle with depending on lighting and if i got my glasses and my patience
ps wozz has the idea. nuts give included angle of 120degrees just to check angle,still need to twist to obtain clearance.just a visual check
............http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/dga1-drill-grinding-attachmentsimilar to end/slot mill attachments but is it any good for drills ?........anybody used or got one?.........sams and robots, are like the ones i've used before did a reasonable job but have special stones and lots of bits ,,,,,do they cope with th imperial and metric sizes easily?......bigger drills are easy enuff its 5mm down i struggle with depending on lighting and if i got my glasses and my patience
ps wozz has the idea. nuts give included angle of 120degrees just to check angle,still need to twist to obtain clearance.just a visual check
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If/when we get a forum meet up off the drawing board, a few drill sharpening demo might be usefull for some members
Snowy, the ones i find hard are ones over about 30mm, the edge is wider than the wheel then. Linisher doesnt give such a nice result.
Snowy, the ones i find hard are ones over about 30mm, the edge is wider than the wheel then. Linisher doesnt give such a nice result.
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If/when we get a forum meet up off the drawing board, a few drill sharpening demo might be usefull for some members
Snowy, the ones i find hard are ones over about 30mm, the edge is wider than the wheel then. Linisher doesnt give such a nice result.
yep over 3/4 I get em sharpend, the old boy who does em on his tool grinder charges me £3 a pot..... Iv got some over 3" for the herbie, whatcha recon a mornings work to get one of them true???
jugs
Dont wish to offend & annoy, but...
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anyone tried this style of attachment ,,,,,i'm reasonable at hand grinding but even the best i know still get the odd bad one .....and as my eyesight is getting worse
similar to end/slot mill attachments but is it any good for drills ?........anybody used or got one?.........sams and robots, are like the ones i've used before did a reasonable job but have special stones and lots of bits ,,,,,do they cope with th imperial and metric sizes easily?......bigger drills are easy enuff its 5mm down i struggle with depending on lighting and if i got my glasses and my patience
ps wozz has the idea. nuts give included angle of 120degrees just to check angle,still need to twist to obtain clearance.just a visual check
This type of drill grinding attachment is better than hand grinding cos as at least you end up with the same length & angle on both sides of the drill, but they are very fiddely to use, the grinding wheel needs truing often & you cant thin the point. (req'd for acurate holes & less effort)
Use a Drill Doctor cheapest from -
http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?subcategory=Sharpeners&category=Power+Tool+Accessories
They start @ £100, worth twice as much !! will do all twist drills - hss, cobalt, carbide masonary. 118 + 135 & point thining. Uses dimond wheel, I'v sharpend 100s of drills upto 3/4" (I'v got a big one) with original wheel, perfect each time, paid for its self in a few mths.
gavuk
artful-bodger
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thank you jugs for the feed back on the attachment ,if its that fiddly i carry on by hand ...save myself a tenner !.......for £100 i'd buy a better pillar drill, .......i've got access at work to large grinders/drills ,so up to 2"drills isn't a problem at home my pillar drill would struggle with 12mm without pilot drills anyway,i'm fortunate i've access to proper workshop kit at work and can do heavy stuff there but realize a lot of members are not so lucky ,i'm sure a drill doctor will interest them especially with a recommendation from yourself,if they get the chance to learn how to grind from somebody who knows wot they are doing its well worth learning by hand tho,not easy but nothing worthwhile is i'll keep practicing...........also helps when work buys the drills
...save myself a tenner !.......for £100 i'd buy a better pillar drill, .......i've got access at work to large grinders/drills ,so up to 2"drills isn't a problem at home my pillar drill would struggle with 12mm without pilot drills anyway,i'm fortunate i've access to proper workshop kit at work and can do heavy stuff there but realize a lot of members are not so lucky ,i'm sure a drill doctor will interest them especially with a recommendation from yourself,if they get the chance to learn how to grind from somebody who knows wot they are doing its well worth learning by hand tho,not easy but nothing worthwhile is i'll keep practicing...........also helps when work buys the drills 
Afterimage
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I was hoping that I'd be able to sharpen a drill bit on my bench grinder for nowt,if I have to buy extra machinery then it'd be cheaper for me to just keep buying new drill bits.
jugs
Dont wish to offend & annoy, but...
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Sorry Mickj, but I doubt it will be cheaper, a good quality drill should do many 1000s of holes in its life IF it is kept sharp & is driven @ the correct speed.
A worn drill overheats & loses its temper (same as us)
so you may get less than 20 holes!!! You cant beat a good touch up, little & often on the end of your tool.If you are buying drills, don't be tempted by the cheap roll-formed or carbon steel drills. Go for ground hi-speed steel (HSS) from a reputable manufacturer eg Dormer, Hertel, Guhring etc. The gold coloured TiN coated tools give much longer life than standard & are well worth the extra cost. Expect to pay £2.50 for a 6mm drill, as opposed to 35p:full, cos u gets what u pays for.
I got a box set off Wurth. Really pretty good drills actually. I think there's about 10 each of 0.5 -7 and five of each from 7.5 -10.5. Cost £100 reduced from £180 which ain't cheap but they're fully hardened and sharpenable so should last me. The majority of Wurth stuff is good but you have to find a dealer!
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I have a rep thats worse than a jack russle, He just does not give up, week on week he comes round, You tell him your busy comes back later, you tell him this that and even to F off, and he still comes back, the gears normaly good but Christ some of its overpriced..... they did have Dickes Ferno/inferno??? overalls on offer this month for £25..... Just that rep drives me nuts
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I can see that getting annoying.
annoyings not the word, I dont mind if someone comes round once a week, puts his head through the door, and asks if you wnat anything... But you say No and then the offers come out and he'l bloady well follow you round....
The construction lads have it sorted, they make him sign in, sit through the yard safety video, then issue with full gear, before letting him go and ask the Forman if he need anything, to which he replys No.
4 weeks later he got the message..The construction lads have it sorted, they make him sign in, sit through the yard safety video, then issue with full gear, before letting him go and ask the Forman if he need anything, to which he replys No.
Inspired!
Larwyn
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I resisted the temptation to buy the Drill Doctor ever since I heard about them. I figured like many others that I could just buy bits cheaper than the machine to sharpen the ones I already had. However, I have always saved the larger chipped or dulled bits thinking I would some day attempt to sharpen them myself.
Recently I was in Lowe's and they had the Drill Doctor that normally sells for $100 USD on sale at $79 USD. As they have a great returns policy there, I decided to give it a try. I was quiete surprised how fast, easy and accurate this little plastic machine will sharpen bits up to 1/2" (an accesory chuck will allow it to go up to 3/4").
I found that I had saved enough old damaged and dull bits to make the purchase more than worthwhile. I'm sure that the machine more than paid for itslelf the first time I sat down at the bench with a cadweld box full of bits. There is no way I could have bought all those bits for the price of the machine. As a bonus I noticed yesterday while drilling a 7/16" hole in 3/4" mild steel on the drill press, with an old bit sharpend on the DD, that the bit fed very smoothly and surprisingly quickly with two spiral shaped shiney shavings climbing the flutes out of the hole being drilled. I am sure this bit works better than new.
Recently I was in Lowe's and they had the Drill Doctor that normally sells for $100 USD on sale at $79 USD. As they have a great returns policy there, I decided to give it a try. I was quiete surprised how fast, easy and accurate this little plastic machine will sharpen bits up to 1/2" (an accesory chuck will allow it to go up to 3/4").
I found that I had saved enough old damaged and dull bits to make the purchase more than worthwhile. I'm sure that the machine more than paid for itslelf the first time I sat down at the bench with a cadweld box full of bits. There is no way I could have bought all those bits for the price of the machine. As a bonus I noticed yesterday while drilling a 7/16" hole in 3/4" mild steel on the drill press, with an old bit sharpend on the DD, that the bit fed very smoothly and surprisingly quickly with two spiral shaped shiney shavings climbing the flutes out of the hole being drilled. I am sure this bit works better than new.
