- Thread starter rockettvr
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the snooper
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The wire feed gets its power from the welding transformer so if the relay is not energising the transformer you won't get anything
Rig Pig
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Google is a great allie for the most obscure bits!
skotl
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Re the electric shock and the RCD not tripping, am I right in thinking that the transformer in these is an isolation transformer? That would mean that you would get a belt if you complete the circuit across the welder side of the transformer, but you would not be completing the RCD-protected side.
Is it of any help if I take some pics of the wiring of my SIP? May help you track down how the wiring should look.
Also - there are schematics of the SIPs on some of the modification threads on here.
Is it of any help if I take some pics of the wiring of my SIP? May help you track down how the wiring should look.
Also - there are schematics of the SIPs on some of the modification threads on here.
skotl
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The wiring schematic is the first diagram on this post; http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...feed-power-supply-alternative-approach.11532/
I suggest you read through this post.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...-wire-feed-motor-stopped-working.47920/page-2
I had a similiar problem on my Sealey supermig 180 and I traced it to no output from the transformer on the pcb. I was in the middle of welding patches on a car for mot so I had no time to source a replacement. I had a spare power supply like a phone charger only with a 12v 1A output. I removed the metal pins that went into the mains socket, connected some cable in their place, and soldered the 240v and 12v cables into the pcb where I had removed the old transformer. I mounted the new power supply on the base of the welder with cable ties.
The whole thing was intended as a temp fix to get the car finished but it is still going well 2 years later!
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...-wire-feed-motor-stopped-working.47920/page-2
I had a similiar problem on my Sealey supermig 180 and I traced it to no output from the transformer on the pcb. I was in the middle of welding patches on a car for mot so I had no time to source a replacement. I had a spare power supply like a phone charger only with a 12v 1A output. I removed the metal pins that went into the mains socket, connected some cable in their place, and soldered the 240v and 12v cables into the pcb where I had removed the old transformer. I mounted the new power supply on the base of the welder with cable ties.
The whole thing was intended as a temp fix to get the car finished but it is still going well 2 years later!
Wendelspanswick
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Do you have a Maplins local to you?
There are not the cheapest but they are open on a Sunday.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/c/components/relays
Maplins don't list anything suitable on their website. May take my PCB down to see if they can match it otherwise I found this http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/...e-PCB-Mount-Relay-12Vdc-1-NO-SPST-NO?ref=list which may be suitable.
skotl
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Has somebody broken into the plastic case and soldered cables directly to the relay? I've never, ever seen that in close to 40 years of working with electronics - what an unholy bodge
Re sourcing the relay you may need to settle for a non pin-compatible one and run fly leads from it to the PCB.
Wendelspanswick
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The relevant info you need for a suitable relay is the operating voltage, the maximum current it can switch, the number of poles and whether they are normally open or closed.
I can see that your relay is a 16 amp one but cannot see whether the operating voltage is 12v or 250v and how many poles, I would guess 2 poles with both NO and NC contacts (6 pins for the contacts plus 2 for the operating coil, 8 pins in total).
I can see that your relay is a 16 amp one but cannot see whether the operating voltage is 12v or 250v and how many poles, I would guess 2 poles with both NO and NC contacts (6 pins for the contacts plus 2 for the operating coil, 8 pins in total).
skotl
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Can you break the clear plastic lid off? That would make it easier to conclude whether it was spdt or dpst
Edit; found the data sheet - does the pinout look like the bottom of page 2 (easier to check with the plastic case removed)?
Second Edit; I think this is a match but the schematic isn't one that I am familiar with - can anyone else verify against the schematic from the AZ725 datasheet?
Edit; found the data sheet - does the pinout look like the bottom of page 2 (easier to check with the plastic case removed)?
Second Edit; I think this is a match but the schematic isn't one that I am familiar with - can anyone else verify against the schematic from the AZ725 datasheet?
Have you checked that the transformer on the pcb is putting out 12v dc? The relay might be ok, it might not be getting the 12v to operate it.
If you can't get the exact relay you could get a generic one with a base mount and connect it to the pcb with fly leads. Something like this would do your job and being rated at 40a would be over-engineered.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1SET-JQX-...-Relay-W-Base-12V-24V-110V-220V-/261617579215
If you can't get the exact relay you could get a generic one with a base mount and connect it to the pcb with fly leads. Something like this would do your job and being rated at 40a would be over-engineered.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1SET-JQX-...-Relay-W-Base-12V-24V-110V-220V-/261617579215
You've not looked at the pictures I've posted have you....
I have seen your photos. Even though somebody has butchered that relay it might still be working, though it should really be replaced. What I was alluding to was that the 'butcher' didn't look into the problem properly and bypassed the relay but the problem could actually be in the transformer.
In my experience in working at electrical panels those relays rarely go wrong, though the panels I worked on contained high quality components like Omron.
the snooper
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