hyd clutch thats non ajustable- any reason why i cant do this

[PhillipM]

Supposed to on mine too. Didn't stop me drilling the cylinder and fitting a bleed valve and screw on hose

 

[DrNik]

That clutch sounds fine to me, it's self adjusting in itself, and you can't change that with washers or spacers, it will remain the same unless you use a larger master cylinder or smaller slave cylinder, then your looking to do damage to your cover plate by over pressing, been there and got the tshirts lol

 

[octo0072000]

At least you can replace bits of the system, on some Freelanders you have to buy a complete replacement system

Rover diesel is same as early freelander diesel you can actually buy master and slave separate but none of it has bleed nipples all sealed only way to bleed it is in a bucket full of brake fluid
there is a retro fit kit but £170 is a bit dear to get metal cylinders and a bleed nipple

 

[Wallace]

When the pedal is up do you have clearance between the pushrod and piston?

 

[normspanners]

You have to pump fluid in through the bleed nipple.

I think his method below covers your point.

and ive bled it syringe

Never seen an adjustable hydraulic clutch.

Some old cars with short slave cylinders where adjustable to account for the limited travel but it doesnt alter the bite point, that is set by the hydraulic ratio.
Ie the amount the slave moves is directly proportional to the master movement.
I think as stated earlier you have either distorted friction plate or damaged/ cracked diaphragm possible release arm pivot worn altering pivot ratio.

 

[steveo3002]

That clutch sounds fine to me, it's self adjusting in itself, and you can't change that with washers or spacers, it will remain the same unless you use a larger master cylinder or smaller slave cylinder, then your looking to do damage to your cover plate by over pressing, been there and got the tshirts lol

what if when the pedal is slammed on the floor theres still some more to go on the m/c rod ?

appreciate all the replies folks

 

[normspanners]

this is the escort twin cam slave

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-C...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item416e8b31f5

with this adjustable push rod

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mk1-Escor...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27d0f2d43c

 

[normspanners]

what if when the pedal is slammed on the floor theres still some more to go on the m/c rod ?

appreciate all the replies folks

Adjusting the slave will do nothing, you would have to adjust the master cyl rod, but if, there is virtually no play in the rod, then you cannot adjust it, it has to have some free play to allow the master to pass fluid back into the reservoir when your foot is off the clutch.
This may seem mad but have you checked the carpet or the floor for damage, under the pedal or the pedal pivot bushes, I had a problem with one that had carpets put under the normal carpets which was enough when a new clutch was fitted to stop the master cyl getting full travel and the clutch clearing properly, it was fine with the worn clutch because the bite was at the top.

 

[steveo3002]

yeah i ought to check it with the carpets up..floor isnt dented

 

[AndyStobbs]

Why can't the slave be adjusted. If there is a big load of take up before the release bearing reaches the cover then thats wasted movement and could be reduced.

 

[DrNik]

Taking up any slop in the mechanical arms and pivots is good, as there is less travel wasted, but to put washers on the slave or master cylinder to "adjust" the biting point is fruitless as the fluid will act in the same way and the biting point will remain the same,I would suggest (as others have) looking into the way it's fitted, as I'm sure if it's as bad as you say it wouldn't have come out of the factory like it

 

[normspanners]

Adjusting the slave will do nothing, you would have to adjust the master cyl rod, but if, there is virtually no play in the rod, then you cannot adjust it, it has to have some free play to allow the master to pass fluid back into the reservoir when your foot is off the clutch.
This may seem mad but have you checked the carpet or the floor for damage, under the pedal or the pedal pivot bushes, I had a problem with one that had carpets put under the normal carpets which was enough when a new clutch was fitted to stop the master cyl getting full travel and the clutch clearing properly, it was fine with the worn clutch because the bite was at the top.

PS as said it is the master cyl that controls the clutch diaphragm movement that is where you need to be looking.
This may seem a brutal way of doing it but I have made brake pedal adjustments on rally cars by warming and bending the pedal up when rod adjustments are not possible, this can give a better 'feel' to the brakes, because the angle of your leg /foot to pedal is nearer 90* not past 90* when breaking V-hard.
You could do that if the pedal is a solid bar but not if fabricated.

 

[steveo3002]

pedal is flat bar ...i could cut a V and bend it re weld it

maybe hammer a dent in the floor lol

 

[normspanners]

Why can't the slave be adjusted. If there is a big load of take up before the release bearing reaches the cover then thats wasted movement and could be reduced.

Hi Andy
there usually isnt any free play at the slave, as the fluid does the adjusting naturally on a 'modern' long slave cyl and follows the wear of the clutch ie the rod travels further into the cyl as it wears.
Taking up any large amount of free play.
The old way was with short slaves, as in the links above, as the clutch wore, the rod would butt out on the bottom of the cyl taking up the natural clearance and the clutch would slip until the nuts were backed off to allow the clearance again.

 

[normspanners]

pedal is flat bar ...i could cut a V and bend it re weld it

it wont be much, a cut with standard cutting disc will prob be ok

maybe hammer a dent in the floor lol

done that before in an emergency

 

[normspanners]

I usually fit a pedal stop ie bolt with a washer welded to the head end and screwed into a captive nut in the floor in rally cars, to prevent any over pushing of the cover plate.
and if there has been a problem with the clutch I have just knocked it over to one side to allow full travel as sometimes you only have minutes to sort summat.
Ap racing concentric slave cyls are a pain they have limited movement 12mm and 18mm on the deeper ones, I think, and you have to shim the release bearing to get it right, if it overthrows it blows the slave!

 

[Wendelspanswick]

On my old VW T4 Transporter the clutch biting point was low, had it a couple of months before I looked at it and I realised the pedal box was broken so that the clutch pedal pivot had moved, a common fault apparently as there is a guy on eBay who sells a bracket for a few quid that repairs and strengthens the pedal box.

 

[p0689109]

Has it only just happened or is it some one elses car that you have been asked to fix? I still say that the release bearing/ fork needs to be considered the culprit!

 

[steveo3002]

its my own car , i think its always been like it but i was blaming the gearchange on the box and hadnt twigged until recently

i wouldnt be surprised if its the arm or clutch , but funds are a bit low atm

 

[DrNik]

I have had a clutch fork arm shear at the pivot, and it allowed the arm to slowly bend over time, giving the illusion of a slowly knackered clutch till the gearbox was removed and saw the problem