- Thread starter jonnyBMX
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Paul.
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I don't know how close to Bedford you are, but PWP on Shuttleworth road keep just about everything to do with welding, ceramics are around £1.12 each, www.pwpind.com,sadly not one that stocks anything for tig...
so i shall pop in thanks!
justmental
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pictures speak a thousand words. lol
yep buy a full size cylinder you will use it and the next one before you are welding 0.5mm ally
It sounds like yo're having similar problems as I'm having!
Cobel welder, these welds are running at about 80A, 1.6mm tungsten & rod, first bead I was really pleased with, but then it went pear-shaped, got flatter, lots of what I assume is contamination (black dots) and then blowing holes. Tried lowering the power but seemed to make no difference. I know I have an issue with tapping the tungsten with the rod, and that'll be down to practice.
These were on slightly thicker material (about 2.5mm) and seem better, although over-heating was still an issue I think.
I went back to the thin stuff and, after a couple of minutes, gave up in frustration...
Cobel welder, these welds are running at about 80A, 1.6mm tungsten & rod, first bead I was really pleased with, but then it went pear-shaped, got flatter, lots of what I assume is contamination (black dots) and then blowing holes. Tried lowering the power but seemed to make no difference. I know I have an issue with tapping the tungsten with the rod, and that'll be down to practice.
These were on slightly thicker material (about 2.5mm) and seem better, although over-heating was still an issue I think.
I went back to the thin stuff and, after a couple of minutes, gave up in frustration...
julieanncharters
Member
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- 210
find yourself some thicker ali around 3mm and a bigger peice than your playing with at the moment.It sounds like yo're having similar problems as I'm having!
Cobel welder, these welds are running at about 80A, 1.6mm tungsten & rod, first bead I was really pleased with, but then it went pear-shaped, got flatter, lots of what I assume is contamination (black dots) and then blowing holes. Tried lowering the power but seemed to make no difference. I know I have an issue with tapping the tungsten with the rod, and that'll be down to practice.
These were on slightly thicker material (about 2.5mm) and seem better, although over-heating was still an issue I think.
I went back to the thin stuff and, after a couple of minutes, gave up in frustration...
your trying to run before you can walk.
you plate is tiny and thin so will be heat soaked after a couple of runs which means running any more beads on is a waste of time till it cools down.
Wendelspanswick
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^^^^As above, get yourself some bigger offcuts. Welding on large sheets is easier than piddly little squares.
chevy2
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If you're working with the board current and not a pedal you'll be constantly lowering the amperage as those small bits heat up with multiple weld passes,
the black bits in the weldpool you talk about are the oxides, adjust the ac balance for slightly more cleaning,
if you're working on board,not pedal current you can compensate for those hot flat beads by faster travel speed and rod dipping.
the black bits in the weldpool you talk about are the oxides, adjust the ac balance for slightly more cleaning,
if you're working on board,not pedal current you can compensate for those hot flat beads by faster travel speed and rod dipping.
Ah, glad you mentioned travel speed... I was thinking last n ight as I was trying to get to sleep, and remembered that I thought my travel speed was far higher than that in any online tutorial videos I've watched, and I'm dipping the rod far more often too. More like :- dip...dip...dip..dip.dip.dipdipdipdipdip******. Blown a hole.
thought about asking fbm for some practical watching over your shoulder on setup? the posted welds he's done on Tom's Katanaha are really nice and I thought you guys bump into each other in garages occasionally if your the zedhead I'm thinking of (mdm).
