- Thread starter qwakers
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qwakers
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going through the mot faliure list of a customers audi a5 3.0 quattro.
arms and welding.
welding might take a while....
and that's just the obvious bits.
they're FAI arms, btw, not autodoc specials, i just needed the torque settings and autodoc club is the easiest place to get them.
arms and welding.
welding might take a while....
and that's just the obvious bits.
they're FAI arms, btw, not autodoc specials, i just needed the torque settings and autodoc club is the easiest place to get them.
Blobber
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That's crusty, what years that?
I struggle to believe that 07 is nearly 20 years ago......
Bullet2012
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- on average about 200 miles from the ISS.
Just heard 11 year + old Lorry’s are going to be tax, mot, ulez and congestion charge exempt and qualify for 50% fuel cost rebate.my 2008 lorry is 10 years old and you will never convince me otherwise
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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The lock on the outer workshop door started to play up, it would take several attempts to unlock and was getting worse. It's a steel door with multipoint locking, so if I can't unlock it, it's a big problem. Even if I can get to the other side, getting it unlocked without damaging the door would be difficult, but possible. I would rather not have to try, so set about finding the cause.
I assumed if was the eurolock barrel, so replaced that first after trying graphite. Even worse. The mortice latch mechanism is a 6068. Swapped that for one i had in my spares, no difference.
The multipoint locking mechanism was all working fine, no rusting, all bolts running freely.
So I tried swapping the latch for a brand new one, still not ok, tried with several eurolocks. Some jammed completely once locked, some were temperamental. This is just a sample. I seem to have quite a collection, about 5 spare latches and eurolocks.
The old latch mechanism didn't like taking newer eurolocks without a reemer and a file. That's when I decided to attack the cam lobe on a eurolock. After covering it in masking tape to keep the filings out.
I probably took about 0.5mm of each dimension, much better. A bit more fettling and it was working repeatedly. I decided to use the new mech and eurolock i had bought in case the old ones were worn.
The new eurolocks are definitely slightly bigger, I had to take the die grinder to the inside of tge cage that protects the lock. You can see it here on the left. The chickens are my constant companions, trying to bully me for corn.
So much for standards, I can understand one lock or one mech causing an issue, but none of them seemed to work. All different makes bought at different times. Filing the cam lobe must have stopped it jamming, I thought they would have allowed a bit of clearance.
I assumed if was the eurolock barrel, so replaced that first after trying graphite. Even worse. The mortice latch mechanism is a 6068. Swapped that for one i had in my spares, no difference.
The multipoint locking mechanism was all working fine, no rusting, all bolts running freely.
So I tried swapping the latch for a brand new one, still not ok, tried with several eurolocks. Some jammed completely once locked, some were temperamental. This is just a sample. I seem to have quite a collection, about 5 spare latches and eurolocks.
The old latch mechanism didn't like taking newer eurolocks without a reemer and a file. That's when I decided to attack the cam lobe on a eurolock. After covering it in masking tape to keep the filings out.
I probably took about 0.5mm of each dimension, much better. A bit more fettling and it was working repeatedly. I decided to use the new mech and eurolock i had bought in case the old ones were worn.
The new eurolocks are definitely slightly bigger, I had to take the die grinder to the inside of tge cage that protects the lock. You can see it here on the left. The chickens are my constant companions, trying to bully me for corn.
So much for standards, I can understand one lock or one mech causing an issue, but none of them seemed to work. All different makes bought at different times. Filing the cam lobe must have stopped it jamming, I thought they would have allowed a bit of clearance.
Last edited:
qwakers
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My Golf had cavity wax from the factory, spent as much time fire fighting as I did welding!.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
I'm a citizen of Legoland travellin' incommunicado
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Gifted to me today as it:
No longer works as it should.
I can not think why it was not working correctly.
They are now drying in the sun.
Dcal
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Today I finished fixing one of the hand wheels on my Eagle Grinder.
The cross feed hand wheel had been repaired at some time and the crank handle recently just fell off.
It looked like it been fixed with aluminium solder that has been blobbed on.
All 4 spokes were cracked.
I tried grinding out the cracks with a carbide burr but they just clogged, however a Sealey 3inch cut off disc made short work of chasing them out.
I welded the front first to keep it together then turned it over and back ground and welded the other side.
It welded every bit as badly as you would expect.
The old flux and repair metal was bad enough but the original cast seemed to have been alloyed with zinc that boiled off.
I preserved, ground out the crap as it came to the top and got it glued together.
I remove what I could in the lathe with very dodgy setups.
Then finished it of by grinding and sanding.
Far from perfect but I'm happy enough with how it's turned out
The cross feed hand wheel had been repaired at some time and the crank handle recently just fell off.
It looked like it been fixed with aluminium solder that has been blobbed on.
All 4 spokes were cracked.
I tried grinding out the cracks with a carbide burr but they just clogged, however a Sealey 3inch cut off disc made short work of chasing them out.
I welded the front first to keep it together then turned it over and back ground and welded the other side.
It welded every bit as badly as you would expect.
The old flux and repair metal was bad enough but the original cast seemed to have been alloyed with zinc that boiled off.
I preserved, ground out the crap as it came to the top and got it glued together.
I remove what I could in the lathe with very dodgy setups.
Then finished it of by grinding and sanding.
Far from perfect but I'm happy enough with how it's turned out
Nomad
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- North Devon (for how long?)
Spent a couple of hours cleaning rust from my hand tools that got soaked during the winter floods (I've been away and only discovered the carnage last week)
All 1/2" drive bits were soaked in diesel and wire brushed last week, spanners and 3.8" bits were left to soak at the end of the session. They all got wire brushed today.
Most of the 1/4" bits were ok but anything suspect got dumped in diesel today to soak for the next session.
It looks like 95% of the tools have come up ok which is a big relief.
My classic 90s Nissan got a new starter motor today so it's working for the first time since new year (now I *JUST* need to fix the stalling below 2k rpm - it's normally a blocked carb jet, find + fit a new fuel pump, investigate a relay that's started clicking when you put the key in.... )
All 1/2" drive bits were soaked in diesel and wire brushed last week, spanners and 3.8" bits were left to soak at the end of the session. They all got wire brushed today.
Most of the 1/4" bits were ok but anything suspect got dumped in diesel today to soak for the next session.
It looks like 95% of the tools have come up ok which is a big relief.
My classic 90s Nissan got a new starter motor today so it's working for the first time since new year (now I *JUST* need to fix the stalling below 2k rpm - it's normally a blocked carb jet, find + fit a new fuel pump, investigate a relay that's started clicking when you put the key in.... )
qwakers
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- cornwall, united kingdom
rear sill returns welded in, all underside rust and scale flap wheeled, needle gunned and wire wheeled back, covered in rust reform and painted,
and sills filled and painted. you would never know.... well, except for the lack of stonechip texture, which i cant help, and the fact that there are dents all the way down the sill except for the bit i welded in....
that should see it through its mot no trouble.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
I'm a citizen of Legoland travellin' incommunicado
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Take this, add time and coffee.
Melvyn Best
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A little dodge when you have a suspect blocked idle jet that I was shown probably 50 years ago , with the air filter assembly removed and the engine running , rev the engine to around 3000 RPM then KEEP THE REVS UP , cover the carb inlet with the palm of your hand , the extra vacuum created may clear the blockage, the trick is to uncover the carb inlet before the engine stalls and repeat the procedure a few times. If it works it may save you loads of griefSpent a couple of hours cleaning rust from my hand tools that got soaked during the winter floods (I've been away and only discovered the carnage last week)
All 1/2" drive bits were soaked in diesel and wire brushed last week, spanners and 3.8" bits were left to soak at the end of the session. They all got wire brushed today.
Most of the 1/4" bits were ok but anything suspect got dumped in diesel today to soak for the next session.
It looks like 95% of the tools have come up ok which is a big relief.
My classic 90s Nissan got a new starter motor today so it's working for the first time since new year (now I *JUST* need to fix the stalling below 2k rpm - it's normally a blocked carb jet, find + fit a new fuel pump, investigate a relay that's started clicking when you put the key in.... )
lchris21
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TVs have become disposable items theses days so I'm told? Time to get rid of it, get a new one....blah blah
.... My 13 year old Samsung took early retirement when I was away for a month. Some diagnostics with ChatGPT, and finding a NOS power supply in Slovenia for £30, so thought it was worth a punt....jobs a good un for another 13 years with any luck. 
Ordered the board on Monday arrived Thursday. 
.... My 13 year old Samsung took early retirement when I was away for a month. Some diagnostics with ChatGPT, and finding a NOS power supply in Slovenia for £30, so thought it was worth a punt....jobs a good un for another 13 years with any luck. Ordered the board on Monday arrived Thursday. 
