- Thread starter Martin Hocking
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hotponyshoes
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Why do you need a relay?
It appears to me that the 2x 7 pin sockets fitted previously in the uk(?) have all the wires/feeds that you are needing to tow a trailer in the uk?
If I'm correct on the above then you could just fit a single, 13p socket, use whatever wires you need and cap any unused ones off.
Obviously remove/tidy as required.
It appears to me that the 2x 7 pin sockets fitted previously in the uk(?) have all the wires/feeds that you are needing to tow a trailer in the uk?
If I'm correct on the above then you could just fit a single, 13p socket, use whatever wires you need and cap any unused ones off.
Obviously remove/tidy as required.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Wasn't that a Bach Choral thing?
The relay switches power supplied to it, to the required lamps, rather than taking power from those lamps and potentially over-loading those lamps circuits. Should also, if you pick the right unit, allow the use of trailers with LED lamps as well as conventional lamps.
Will also provide the warning sound or lamp required in the UK if the trailer lamps fail.
Martin Hocking
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You know how it is, all the cool kids are doing it…
To be honest I’m not totally sure I do either.
As @bricol explains (almost entirely for my benefit as I’m sure you already know what the relay does mr pony shoes
) it seems like quite a good idea as far as not overloading things is concerned.Having said that the lighting circuits etc. have been running the trailer socket direct for about 25 years without any obvious problem, so maybe it’s just extra expense I don’t need.
Decisions decisions…
Erie Fred
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Yes, back then the wiring, switches & fusing are heavy enough to directly run the additional trailer lights.You know how it is, all the cool kids are doing it…
To be honest I’m not totally sure I do either.
As @bricol explains (almost entirely for my benefit as I’m sure you already know what the relay does mr pony shoes
Having said that the lighting circuits etc. have been running the trailer socket direct for about 25 years without any obvious problem, so maybe it’s just extra expense I don’t need.
Decisions decisions…
Incandescent no less, so if your trailer is LED, you should be fine.
BTW, your title has "tow bar" in it, brings up the question,
What do you have at the back for a ball hitch ?
Back then, many just had a step bumper with a hole in it for a 1 7/8" or 2" ball with a threaded shank.
Maybe post up a pix ?
...and add that rear fuel tank while the bed is off....your gonna need it.....
FWIW I owned a 1986 f-150 and then a 1989 f-250.
He doesn't need the second tank. The tow bar is for a fuel bowser.
Erie Fred
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Your supposed to use one of these:He doesn't need the second tank. The tow bar is for a fuel bowser.
I converted my trailer to LED as I was fed up with sorting dodgy bulb connections from badly sealed lights.
And they refused to flash, even with a flasher unit supposedly okay with LEDs - I had to add in resistors on the trailer to make it work. Fine for me with one trailer with LEDs, but if you are towing a few, or ones that aren't yours, it just makes it easier.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
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Does it work? If so id leave it
Mine had towbar kit from new so proper plug into loom LR part.
Martin Hocking
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I think I’m with bob, if it works I wouldn’t do anything with it until it didn’t!
Though I really can’t see that scotchlocks are a good idea. I know they work but damaging the insulation has got to be asking for trouble if they need to come off again. I suppose most of the people putting them on don’t have to worry about that…
Not that I’m foreshadowing grief on your land rover kayos, I’m sure it’s nothing insulation tape won’t fix when you deal with them…
Kayos
Gone......
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My plan was to rejoin the wires, but as @Bobupndown says, if it works, leave it alone
I have been in the area wiring a proper reverse camera in the tailgate so the scotch locks annoyed me when I saw them
Scotch-locks are a botch job. It's not a question of if they fail but when they fail.
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Has yours got the trailer indicator in the dash?, on my Freelander 1 when I fitted the tow socket I just swapped the 3 pin flasher relay for a 4 pin and dash light worked.
